So looks like my IC pump is kaput again. I have given it a tap of encouagement but to no avail. This will be the second time in a year I have to replace it.

Is there another option for the IC pump other then the bosch OEM one this blows. Is there a better one on the market?

What causes this POS to fail?

 

Forgive my lack of knowledge, how do you know it isn't working? Any symptoms to look out for?

 

My iat2 temps went to 170* f during a very short drive to work when the outside temps were only 3* c. And when I look at the ic coolant fill neck the coolant Is not flowing just sitting there.

 

Anyone hear about the dex cool coolant from gm does it gum up. Would that cause it to fail.

 

There was someone who swapped in another pump that flowed more, I cant remember which one...but it failed sooner than the OEM bosch one.

 

No. It comes down to you just got a bad pump IMO. An electric motor is impossible to put a time line on. Could last a day. Could last 10 years. Look at my meth pump. It lasted less than a year. Turned out a bearing seized inside. But yet you hardly ever hear of meth pumps quitting.

 

Don't replace the whole pump.. To Expensive, if you have some soldering skills ( not much needed ) Just replace the brushes in the motor your self... That is what goes out.. I changed mine out at 60k miles, its now been about 26.5k miles later and its still strong..

Spent a whole 4$ in brushes for the motor, and about 5 hours in labor (including travel time to the hardware store) :-P

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...c-pump-199097/

 

SVT Mustang water Coolant Pump Intercooler SuperCharger | eBay

 

I have the cx racing brushless intercooler pump on my car, have had it for almost a year now. It requires splicing the wiring but at 60 bucks or however much it is now it's well worth it. The reason the Bosch ones fail is because the brushes wear out from being switched on constantly; it has nothing to do with the Dexcool coolant.

 

Avoid this pump like the plague. I put it on my STS-V and it sucked *****. Its a cheap chinese piece of **** that actually flows closer to 2-4 GPM when pumping fluid vertically. It died out after 6 months - thank god I ran it inline with my factory pump or I would have been fucked. I ended up replacing both and going with this Jabsco pump:

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

Which I should have got in the first place. For the first time since I've owned the car, I can run back to back dyno runs, and touch my intercooler seconds afterward. It now runs cooler than my intake!

With that being said, I believe I will be taking my existing STS-V IC pump and installing it on the cobalt to increase flow and lower IAT2s.

 

That pump is the **** for 60 dollars.

 

of course its going to run cooler then your intake

 

Thats what im thinking. I tested my new one and my buddies fixed bosch one and it seemed to push the water the same

 

Well been looking at it a bit more and this is what I've found:
1 the pump seems to be working. When I look in the filler neck I cAn see the coolant flowing BY at a good clip.
2 I do notice alot of air bubbles in the coolant small ones and big ones. I don't have option b or dual pass but i do have a zzp HE as well as the factory ic. I spent alot of time last summer trying to bleed it and it was good had no issues.
3 this started to happen on Monday after I took out the air box to clean my k an n filter and took out the mAf to see if it was still clean and it was so I just put it back in.
4 as I tried to bleed it tonight I had the car idling for 20 mins and the iat2 hit 195*

This is just stuff I noticed but not necessarily the issue or cause.

Been doing alot of searching on the forum too.

 

Thats what Im trying to say - it was significantly hotter with that shitty ebay pump. Now it is significantly cooler. Also, I have that pump for sale for $40 shipped if any one wants to try it out.