cavfiredesire

iTrader: (4)

Im pretty sure I have a lash adjuster issue.

Once in a blue moon ill start the car and get a loud tick, and rattle sort of sound. Then it seems to go away after a couple seconds. But ill still have a tick and rattle until the motor warms up and then its gone.

From my reading its probably the lash adjusters.

Whats the way to attack this issue? Replace them all, somehow find the bad ones, ride it till it dies?

**As a super special bonus question...

Would a bad lash adjuster cause KR?

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

Sounds more like your Timing Chain Tensioner is dying. I had this happen on mine a few years back. The older models are prone to falling apart.

Ecotec Timing Chain Tensioner 12608580

cavfiredesire

iTrader: (4)

Did it already.

The noise isnt coming from there, but it has been hard to pin point exactly where. Ill try and get a vid of the sound. The chain was nice and tight when I did it.

I may pull the valve cover off this week and check the chain for taughtness just incase the new one failed.

cranemaster

My car sorta does this since I put on an intake, bit of a rough idle for only a few moments when it's cold. And I mean winter in Canada cold. Doesn't seem to violent to me so I'm not worried.

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

If you're an LNF, that's just the HPFP.

Then I'd agree that the Lifters are probably the next thing to look at. Not too sure how easy it'd be to pinpoint which one is causing the noise, as I've never had to mess with a lifter issue. A quick Google search didn't turn up too much info, either. $13/ea isn't bad until you're buying 16 of them.

Ecotec Lifter/ Adjuster 24100005 replaced by 12572638

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

you ever thought you had an ex leak if not that then I would also check the oil pressure

cavfiredesire

iTrader: (4)

I checked the header bolts and they were all tight. This is on a LSJ pacesetter header, and the gasket was new when I installed it.

The rest of the exhaust is brand new as of last weekend.

The oil pressure off the head at startup when cold is about 60-80 psi once its fully warmed up it drops to about 20.

But when the engine is cold I have plenty of pressure.

JapEatr

iTrader: (9)

Lash adjusters are cake, pull cams and replace lash adjustors

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

that could be your problem

you don't need to pull the cams to swap out lash adjusters

cavfiredesire

iTrader: (4)

Can you please elaborate how that oil pressure could be the problem?

The noise isnt getting any better. Im going to pull the valve cover this saturday and see if I can see any signs of which lifter is bad. If you have any help in finding it I would be appreciative.

I was thinking about pulling the cover and starting the car but id imagine oil would be going all over the place.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

MIne is 60 and drops to 30 after warming up too. It doesnt even go under 40psi until coolant temp is at 180 degrees causing my idle to fall to 800 rpm (my tune). Your oil pressure is fine. I noticed that this is my pressure running 10w30. If you use 5w30 the psi is 40 until warm up and then drops to 30. Also check your oil filter. I had one brand that dropped my pressure, switched to WIX and it went back to normal. I have had lots of timing noise, my last one was a snapped bolt at the bottom of the timing chain tensioner.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

does it sound like this? If so the guide bolt is broke.


If it sounds like this its your tensioner (oil pressure, oil viscosity, oil filter, or tensioner).

http://s111.photobucket.com/user/c13...l?sort=2&o=115

Both are my vids and I have just about experienced every problem outside of a broken chain with timing. :lol I am still on my original 77,000 mile parts by the way. The chains dont go bad. The only things that do go are bolts and tensioners.

cavfiredesire

iTrader: (4)

The first video does not at all sound like what I have.

The second video doesn't work. But I doubt its the tensioner. Its not a slack chain tick its a metal on metal tick like the lash adjuster.

Im thinking that I could run the car for a few mins when its been sitting over night and then pull the valve cover.

Whatever lash adjuster is loose is probably the noisy one??

Im going to check the timing chain for tautness and make sure the top guide bolt hasnt backed out.

Also going to tighten my ball socket on the header.

I always use 5w30 Mobil 1 and AC Delco filters

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

try this link. sound like this?

20130124_192745.mp4 Video by c130aviator | Photobucket

cavfiredesire

iTrader: (4)

Defiantly not that sound.

Ill try to get a video tomorrow. If not sat morn. I work at 6am and I doubt people want to hear my car that early!

cavfiredesire

iTrader: (4)

Finally made a video and a youtube account!

This is what im dealing with. Once it gets up to operating temps the sound is gone.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

is it the occasional ticking? the rest is pretty normal for the ecotec

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

I would suggest the bottom of the black inlet side tensioner guide is broken.

Tjolley

Thats wat it sounds like to me

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

good to know, yet another great diagnosis for the timing area.

cavfiredesire

iTrader: (4)

If it was a broken guide wouldnt the sound be there all the time?

I guess to check if thats the issue ill need to order a new crank pulley bolt since they are tty?

Tjolley

I reuse mine.
Just put some lock tight on the threads good to go.

Oh and if u do find it is that chain guide put lock tight on all the timing bolts u remove or replace.

cavfiredesire

iTrader: (4)

Is that guide able to be changed without removing the timing chain?

Like I had asked before though...if it was broken wouldn't the noise be there all the time?

gotboost?17

iTrader: (46)

use a stethoscope**, that pin pointed my issue

cavfiredesire

iTrader: (4)

Im going to try that today with a long screwdriver and see if I can pinpoint the area the noise is coming from.

I did see some sooting at my ball socket on my header but didnt think the noise is an exhaust leak. Ive tightened my header to head bolts