Alright I bought an LC-1 not too long ago, installed it, and since the day I installed it the gauge has been reading this during normal cruising:

Video:


This video is a simple cruise at 55 mph down the road.

And here is a data log of the wideband reading during start up:


In this datalog, I start the car, let it idle for about 15 seconds, rev it to 2500 and hold it, then let it idle down and shut the car off.

After every WOT pull, the gauge goes a-wall and throws an error after a few seconds. The LED blinks 8 times, meaning it's a sensor timing error.

It's bugging the hell out of me. I've talked to a few local people and they all mention something about my car being "closed loop" and that could possibly be the reason it reads like that.

Folks with an LC-1, does your gauge read like this? Do you get the sensor timing error after every WOT pull like I do? I have a lot of concern about this because I'm running nitrous and I don't feel comfortable running it because of this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

Ground it to the alt.

 

Connect all grounds to the alt, then? They are all grounded at one spot under the dash, FYI.

 

The problem is that stupid wb needs to be calibrated, reason why i got aem. If your not a pro and making alot of hp that gauge isnt for you.

 

You think that's it? I've heard nothing but good things about Innovate and the products they make. But that's just what I heard.

 

It needs to be grounded EXTREMELY well. Under the dash will not do. Go to the Innovate forums, there are thousands of posts on this.

 

Alright I'll make a trip over there...

 

hmm, only issue i had with mine was it would stop working after a few seconds of WOT, would shot out a error and the gauge would only read 7.4, and the logworks woudl say something about pump failure...i would turn the car off, wait 5 seconds, turn it back on and it worked again...always happend when iw ent wot, would work fine, than stop reading...and only displaya 7.4 on the gauge, mine was grounded on the center consol, behind the driver side panel....

 

I grounded mine inside the car, the kick panel has a brace, I loosened the nut and put it there. The XD-16 I use is grounded right above it.

 

thats where mine is g rounded too,. theres 2 studs there to pick from

 

If that stud is firmly attached to the metal of the body your ground is fine. But if you are determined to check it do the following.

If you have a multi meter set it on the lowest resistance setting, make sure it's calibrated (needle rests at zero) and measure resistance between the stud you're using and the negative battery terminal. If you have to use a lenght or wire to reach make sure you include it when you zero the meter. OR measure the resistance of that wire (it will be zero) and subtract it from the final reading. Make sure your test probe goes through the PAINT on the stud, all the way to metal. You don't have to worry about disconnecting the battery when measuring resistance, If your reading is less than ,5 ohms, or not readable at all (probably the latter), your ground is fine. Think of the metal body as a wire. Most of the accessorys power wires in your car are 16 or 18 gauge. Now imagine if all the metal between that stud and the negative terminal was ONE THICK wire. Get the picture?

This definitly beats the hell out of running a totally unnessary wire through your car.

 

mine fluctuates but not that fast-thats like crazy fast. The error code with 8 blinking lights can be either overheating or goes to rich suddenly( Goes to 7.4 on gauge). I had this issue with it so installed heat sink and replaced sensor and still had the issue every once and a while. I then put on a TVS and havent seen it since.

 

I guess I need to get a heat sink and try that. I get the same problem after every WOT pull. I think I may sell it and try to get an AEM.

 

yeah i didnt geta heat sink...but it could of solved the problem

 

I was basically told on the Innovate forum that it could either be a.) Engine/tune problems, b.) I need a bung extender, or c.) bad placement of the bung/sensor. Here is what they said:

Quote from Shrinker

"Ive tried to solve error 8 issues by controlling flow rate to the sensor, but the problem is not flow rate. The problem is the engine combustion. All I do is tune race style V8 engines, and some of them are very bad at combustion in a consistent manner. They can be supercharged or anything you want but if the engine has cylinder variation that is over some sort of limit then you get error 8. When I get error 8 I fix the engine.
On one recent job the error 8 was occurring at low power and I couldn't understand why, I changed the fuel type as it wasn't optimum but it was still error 8 virtually the instant any load was applied. I could hear and feel the engine didn't have consistent combustion but the interesting thing was the error 8 occurred at low power levels with big open exhausts etc. So I connected the gas bench and worked off that. It showed me higher O2 and CO levels than what it should have been so there was combustion inefficiency that needed to be dealt with. The owner had raced the car like this for years and never saw any signs of combustion issues but the error 8 told me immediately there is something wrong with this engine. I couldn't see the leak in the gasket either but they pulled the engine on my recommendation and now they are happy. And now its getting a reconfiguration.
When its redone it probably wont produce error 8 anymore even though it will still have the same sensor etc.

I haven't seen an error 8 condition yet that I cant link to a problem with the engine. Provided the sensor is installed a reasonable distance from the head and the system isnt restrictive and building pressure in the pipe then error 8 seems to reliably indicate something wrong with the gas balance coming from the engine. I dont understand fully what it is that the sensor does to do that. Its not that the engines are unusable etc and causing error 8's its far from it, most people are really happy with the running of their engine but when they let me tweek it they find a new experience. E8 is a good thing in my book. "


It is hard to say what is going on in your log without being able to see the throttle position alongside the mixture trace. It will go very weak when you close the throttle.

-and-

People with E8 Problems see anything as possible Wrong.
Thats ok, but now you must sort it out.

The LOGWORKS LOG looks good!
Seems you hit the Pedal and the Fuel mix goes rich but than lean. To lean to long. Accelerating Problem.
Because you wrote AFTER a WOT I think it is the "close the throttle" Problem.

The easiest way is now to speculate about your installing Point of the Sensor-Bung and if it is helpful to use a Bung-Enxtender/ Spacer.

So say someting about the Car installing etc.
Or asked INNOVATE what the think in this.

Shrinker and I have discussed it a little bit further and I know a Extender can make it work.

But you must be sure your Engine don't have Problems like ...
Here it is http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...ad.php?t=11356

Be warned WD-40 can kill the Sensor so pull it if you use WD-40!

A freaking heat-sink bung extender is $89!!

 

yeah that heat sink is not cheap, also the sensor will cut off after your EGT's get to a certain point, forgot to actual temp, i believe thats what i wast old about why mine would drop and read 7.4 after hard WOT pull, it would actually error out during the WOT pull, not inbetween shifts or during decel, it woul happend after EGT's for to hot...which is a failsafe built into the lc1 unit...dont recall to many details, but i know they dont me the heatsink bung would solve the issue, said to hell with it and left it alone

 

The sensor housing is good til 900 degrees F. The actual sensor is good til 1300 degrees F.

I moved the ground wires to that support piece behind the drivers side kick panel. From what I could tell, it didn't make much of a difference, but the numbers aren't so random anymore. They only vary from like 13.7-14.5 where as they used to go from low 13's to low 16's at idle and cruising speed.

I REALLY don't want to buy that heat sink. It's way too expensive for my budget. So I'm going to add another bung right before the cat. converter, and just use the bung that the wideband sensor is in now for an EGT gauge in the future.

 

I have the opposite problem with my lc1. I have a dynotune digital gauge (rectangle one that is compared to the size of our car key).

When cruising under light throttle or idling, it will randomly read uber rich, like 8.0 - 12.0. I know its not running that rich because I can verify it through hptuners scanner and the car runs fine. When i go W0T the gauge will display the afr that i dialed in to. I have tried re-calibrating the sensor. still randomly reads rich.

I am thinking the sensor is just fucked. maybe the meth sent it to an early demise.

 

I'm worn out on trying to fix it. This is ridicilous. I shouldn't spend that much money on a product and it completely screw up like this. It's frustrating.

I've been advised to get rid of it and get an AEM UEGO by quite a few people. I've gotta friend that has one and his works like crap as well.

 

I had one, had probs, now i have a uego......nuff said