So I picked up a used lsj longblock with about 60k on it, I want to swap it in place of my current motor but before i do i wanna check its health. The crank turns freely, the motor has compression, also the intake and exhaust valves look good, also the plugs look good just looks like the motor was running rich, I got a limited view of the bores, looks like carbon and a little rust buildup on the piston tops. I plan on checking the valvetrain for wear or anything unusual. Imo this motor looks like a virgin came with stock green injectors, and the bolts on the intake mani looked like they had never been removed, along with all the other fastners on the motor. Does anyone know some ways to check the motor?

 

JUST BUILD IT! this way you can make so much POWER!

 

good advice, but i wanted to use a stock motor with my spring turbo setup, then build my spare for when the stocker fails, turn up the boost, for el oh elz

 

It kind of depends on how much work you wanna do, and what your plans are for the car.

If it's an all out build, then it doesn't really matter what the inside of the motor looks like as you'd be replacing the majority of the internal parts anyway.

If you're just looking at verifying parts, then I would at the very least remove the valve cover and check wear and clearances on the valvetrain. Then a leak down test... check the head bolts to see if they're good, etc... maybe a new headgasket for peace of mind with some new head bolts (or ARP's) and new gaskets all around.

Everybody would have a different idea on how to check it out, but this is what I would do. I think it all has to do with what your plans are for the motor.n If they're mild, then just check what I listed. If they're wild, check nothing because you'll be upgrading it anyway.

 

Thanks jordan, I really kinda wanna check compression, is there anyway to do that?

 

damn....I'd like to get my hands on a complete block and head assembly to start my build.

 

Ya this one was dirt cheap, all I had to do was drive 347 miles, well worth it, guy gave me a box full of lsj parts worth atleast the cost of what I was paying, I might try a leakdown test, although I don't suspect valve problems, im gonna try and get a hold of a borescope tomorrow see if I can get a better look at the bores

 

frew the best way to check the ccondition of the bores without pullling the head is to do a leakdown test it will show you more then a compression test will

 

Absolutely. In fact I have a compression test kit. But the only thing you need to do is jump the starter and get the motor turning. But...

This^

 

Thanks guys, I think I will pick up a leak down tester from harbor freight today, I was told i could use an impact wrench to turn the crank for a compression test, I would this this would not be a good idea?

 

dont use an impact gun, it wont turn the motor over, itll just tighten the crank bolt till it breaks. to do a compression test you will need a starter to crank it over with. this is why a leak down test is being recommended.

 

i doubt very seriously that it would break the the balancer bolt but i dont think it would turn the engine over fast enough here is some good info for ya frew read nad enjoy

How to do Cylinder Leak Down Testing- Car Craft Magazine

 

Update, did the leakdown test, cylinder #1 awesome 2% loss through the crankcase, cylinder 2-4 15% loss through the intake valves. It was odd, I could get the intake valves to seal but i had to go past TDC, hrmmmm. So i decide to take the valve cover off to inspect the valvetrain, everything looks good, normal wear. Then i get to the timing chain and its on backwards.......so the green mark is on the exhaust cam and the red is on the intake, and they are both off time by 7 links. So looks like next weekend I am tearing this thing apart to inspect for damage, I dont suspect any contact of valve to piston because i can get all 16 valves to seal by rotating the crank so maybe the motor wasnt ran this way, but we will see....

 

Now THAT is interesting...

GL man, get ahold of me if you need to.

 

VERY, thanks man, I appreciate it. Fran and I are going to pull it apart and see whats going on.

 

Need a new engine as we don't know what the problem is.

 

since its out of the car, tear it up. get it magna flux and check the moving parts clean polish...

 

if u swap that one for the one in ur car ill buy the other motor off of you. Im from Pittsburgh so i could pick it up and would pay a pretty good price.

 

I have a complete block minus rotating assembly if you would like... Comes with everything from the block to the oil pan except crank, rods, pistons.

 

u cant mag alluminum

 

its not a complete block if it dosent have a rotating assembly in it it would be called a bare block

 

how can u not magnaflux aluminum? i kno its not magnetic but the iron and magnet that they use are.

 

because the the metal has to have magnetic properties for the magnet and the special powder you use to do its job alluminum is done by a zyglo process with a dye and a light

http://www.ehow.com/how_6878251_chec...ds-cracks.html

 

A bare block is a bare block, nothing else.

This has oilpan, timing cover, oil pump, oil cooler, balance shafts, timing chain, waterpump/balance shaft chaing, all chain guides, water pump, thermostat, etc. The only things it doesn't have is the crank, rods, pistons.

 

Other blocks probably not for sale sorry, that's gonna be my built motor and the home for jordans forged pistons he sold me . Probably not gonna get the block inspect except for myself unless there is visible damage, was considering getting everything in the bottom end cryoed, I have heard very good thing about it.