True I actually was going to do that before I decided to just do all the "traditional" cooling mods. I may actually look into doing that again then gradually go into meth once I get my tuning know how where it needs to be. That's kinda top priority for me now haha.

 

Ya it takes awhile to learn all the tips and tricks thats for sure. I have been doing it for quite a while now and I still learn something new about a car every day. Not so much about the cobalts any more, but you pick up different things from the corvette guys all the time.

 

Ya most of the "starter guides" i've gotten a hold of are actually from vettes and stuff haha. Need to get my wideband next so i can actually start..

 

Meth allowed my motor to live for quite some time under all sorts of conditions and beatings. Needless to say though, once the pump broke on a fun day it turned out to be a real expensive day.

You should do a dual pass mod or the heat exchanger first along with the 60's for a 2.8" pulley. Trust me, that is a good setup to prep you for future mods.

 

good point

 

...thats not a good point...he wouldn't be heatsoaking if he wasn't in boost lol...

heat soaking is caused by boost.....lol, you can't heat soak when your not in boost =P.

Also I would rather have my iat2's lower when at wot then at cruising, who cares what cruising temps are lol.

 

alright, thanks for clearing that up. if my meth pump malfunctions and i do a few WOT runs, what would be the result?

 

this is not true

 

hmm, in dont know who to believe, lsjwannabe, do you have anything to say about heatsoaking?

 

short stack will comment on this also in my defense.

Heat soaking is caused by boost. You can't be soaking in heat if your not producing a lot of heat. You don't produce massive amounts of heat until you hit boost. At idle or while cruising your making almost no boost.

ajjaro - as far as your meth pump failing it depends on how much timing your pushing and how aggressive your tune is.

 

Yeap.

 

"The phenomenon known as "heat soak" occurs when the engine is turned off. At this
time, the combustion process is terminated. This terminates the momentum of the
crankshaft, which in turn stops the turning of the water pump. As the coolant is no longer
being circulated, the engine block and cylinder temperature increase for a period of
approximately 3 to 10 minutes, depending on the engine design and additional
components."

Heat soaking happens after we do a hard run/pull and while were at idle we are soaking in the heat. This will not happen if you don't have a hard run/pull. You don't just start your car and heat soak, you don't just cruise on the highway and heat soak. You have to have a hard pull in order to heat soak.

Also methanol injection DOES help to prevent heat soaking because it keeps your max iat2's down lower which is what causes heat soaking in the first place.

 

it will be an aggressive street tune

on a side note i have an injen intake, with no meth tap, how should i go about prepping the car for meth if i decide to go with it as a cooling mod

 

edit: blah you posted the quote right before i did lol.

 

You get heatsoak after you boost, not during. Meaning you would heat soak at idle after boosting.

 

You answered the question already Edited

 

If your planning on running agressive, you should really think about meth.

They have throttle body spaces so you do not have to tap into anything.

 

ajjaro - If you are going to run an aggressive tune then make sure you don't run out of meth or you could knock to the point of breaking something =P. All you need is a small pulley, 60lbers and meth. I would recommend putting the meth nozzle in the cai and not in a throttle body spacer, this is just my 2 cents though and everyone has different opinions. I personally don't think throttle body spacers are worth it. I have my nitrous and my meth both tapped into the cai and it works great.

coopn8r - If you didn't go into boost before you put it on the dyno the car wouldn't be heat soaking. The car can't heat soak until you reach boost, after that it can then soak in all the heat it created. Glad I could answer your question for you .

 

On my 2.6" pulley, no cooling mods except meth, After several hard hard pulls, I saw 100 degree IAT2 cruise temps and lower on a normally hot ohio summer day.. WOT, my temps never rose above 120.

 

ajjaro - you will love meth once you get it, not only is it a decent power adder but your iat2's will stay nice and cool too =D. Plus its just a fun mod to have in general.

On a random side note I am thinking about dropping pulley sizes and pushing my tune a little farther to hit 300whp this summer without nitrous and 350whp with nitrous, all on the m62.

 

alright so ottp's base meth injection (devil's own kit) should do the trick, or should i go with ais?

 

coop - I'm still thinking about grabbing that pulley, I will letcha know in a couple days. If you sell it by then its all good, i'm not "needing" it by any means.

ajjaro - go with the devils own kit.

ajjaro - some people like the progressive kits but the base meth kit will get the job done. Infact even sean and josh will recommend the standard kit over the progressive meth kit, usually =D.

 

Dont get the progessive kit.

when your dealing with the m62, you would want all the cooling you can get all at once.

you dont need to spray below 8 psi. So that means if you use your feet right you wont use any meth for daily driving.

 

This is the point i was trying to make. When you're idling, you're not in boost.

but also, look at this... if you just start your car (cold start) and let it idle to operating temp, the iat2's will shoot way up until you begin moving and creating airflow past the heat exchanger. this is also heatsoak, even though you were never in boost

 

That is not heat soaking.....

The only time a progressive kit is really effective is when you want to get a short small spray of meth/water to cool your iat2's down while daily driving. Also its nice for when your intercooler pump fails and you want to spray at a very very low psi.