What sort of numbers can the 2.0L S/C take? I could not find any information regarding the motor too much and what it consists of. From Motor Trend's article back in '05, they say that the crank shaft is forged. Is there anything else that is forged in the motor, or perhaps even better? All in all, i am asking what it can safely take, without the chance of it destroying the motor and/or the transmission.

 

The biggest thing is tuning when it comes to limits, msot performance cars that have a engine failure come from bad tuning. If your staying on the stock sueprcharger, you should be fine with good tuning. Your question should probably be how long will it hold up with x amount of power.

 

Your rite my friend, i could have asked that too .

Till what PSI is the stock eaton good?

 

from my limited research on these cars 17-18psi, after that i believe your just over spinning the blower, the stock engine should be able to ahdnle that all else being good(injectors, cooling..ect) Instead of thinking what psi i should run(because when it gets colder, you'll ahve more power...ect.) you shoudl figure out what you want out of the car. I want to autox my car a lot, so the stock power level is fairly sufficent right now. So, i'm looking into getting the power down better.

 

GM performance parts has a really good performance manual for the 2.2 on there site. now, although it's about the 2.2, the information is very useful, most of the changes they suguest to make 300+ hp involve exchanging the 2.2's parts out for the 2.0's. The LSJ is a very capable engine as long as it is tuned correctly.

 

So can you guys tell me what the motor is actually constructed off of? The crank is forged, rite? What about the rest of it?

 

The stock Eaton loses it's true efficiency by 20psi..We are still pushing the limits of our motors to see what she can truely handle. The guys that have blown their motors have mostly been caused due to bad tuning, and running lean. Need to have a safety zone just in case the Temps in your area dip down. Turbo swaps and a Supercharger swap are all in the works with a couple different companies from which we should have a better idea of how strong our motors truely are before blowing things.

 

gm says 350 at the crank and Hahn is quoted in a magazine that their Twin charge setup is to net 400HP at the crank. By the way 350 HP at crank is about 300WHP so I guess you could push the envelope with our cars with 325 and not blow it up according to Hahn's #'s. but for the cost of getting a kit to go beyond 300HP (Hahn) it would be cheaper to get pistons and change compression ratio to get more HP and have a stronger motor. if you were to do a search you would find out what the motor is made of and how strong it is. the weak link is the pistons and if you put in lighter rods (eagles) with light fly wheel and harmonic balancer you will have faster reving motor and HP. Torque #'s should come up to significantly IMO. might be the better way to go if you want reliability built into the motor too. you will need a clutch so put that in since the motor is pulled. Oh and if you dont have LSD get it. Then just strengthen the control arm bushings and call it a day. good luck with what ever you decide to do. (oh I know it adds up but so does frustration with repair bills).

And as far as bad tuning - how did you guys confirm this. You know with cast pistons they are reliable for a said 225 to 250HP (GMS2) and then after that if you have one piston that is weak from the casting process that it can break under more stress sooner than others, right. I am not saying this is the case but I wouldn't rule that out.

 

The reason I made the tuning comment is because the issues that were had out my way were right after a cold snap that hit. They had been tuned when the weather was a bit warmer and the temp dropped pretty significantly over night and the next day is when we had a couple Cobeys go down.

 

Did they not have widebands in there cars? this still does not mean a bad tune or running lean. but PSI would be up. might be enough to go pop a piston if they were on it hard. The tune should be able to adjust to the difference in temperatures anyway. maybe it was the tune then lol. what was their target AFR...13?

 

No idea..Some don't know how important proper monitoring devices are with these cars especially when it comes to tuning them.

 

I love the look of your car BTW. Any more pics? Love it without the spolier! Did you run that 13.9 with just the GM stage 2?