So the other day, my Cobalt broke down in rush hour a few days ago. Embarassing spot, I was blocking traffic for 15 minutes and nobody would stop to help me.. It just stalled out and wouldn't start again, and when It would start, it would die again.. It kept acting like it wasnt getting any air flow. I finalled got out of the car and pushed and steered it myself and got it into Little Ceasars parking lot.I went to Advanced auto and got my check engine light scanned - and HOLY CRAP!!! I'll just write down the list... I'm having a hard time reading the girls handwriting from Advanced, so bare with me ! Any help would be Appreciated.. I have NO clue what to do about any of this. I dont even know where to start.

PO171 - BANK SYSTEM TOO LEAN
PO101 - MASS OR VOLUME AIR FLOW "A" CIRCUIT
PO068 - MAP / THROTTLE
PO503 - VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR + INTERMITTENT
PO446 - EVAP EMISSION, VENT CONTROL
PO341 - CAMSHAFT + POS SENSOR "A" CIRCUIT
P1183 - SUPERCHARGER INLET, PRESSURE SENSOR, LOW VOLT
P1182 - SUPERCHARGER INLET, PRESSURE SENSOR, PERF
PO833 - CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH "B" CIRCUIT
PO300 - RANDOM MISFIRE
PO172 - BANK 1 SYSTEM TOO RICH
PO128 - THERMOSTAT BELOW REGULAR
PO103 - MASS OR VOLUME AIR FLOW HIGH INPUT
PO069 - MAP 1B CORRELATION
PO496 - EMISSION SYSTEM HIGH PURGE FLOW
PO1101 - INTAKE AIR FLOW SYSTEM PERF

Note - I replaced the MAF sensor, MAP sensor, and put a new filter on the CAI. I reset the ECU hoping that it would fix the problem and it didnt.

 

Holy crap...I know a guy in ohio that might help u out.. his name is brad rector

Maybe the pcm is fried? That's too many codes

 

Yah im leaning towards the PCM

 

tund?

 

Nah it's not tuned.. I should say; if I let it idle, it'll try and stall out but it'll rev up to 3k by itsself for about 10-15 minutes. Once the coolant reaches 150 degrees, it'll act normal. Thats my only way of monitoring it right now is by the coolant temp.. Once it reaches 150 degrees. it's completely fine.. I can drive my 20 minutes to work perfectly.. I can still hit full boost and everything. It's only at idle.. If i pull into work and shut it off, and start it back up 5 minutes later, it'll start all over again.. hmm.. -_-

 

use a proper scan tool and clear the codes, drive it and see what comes back. You have too many codes that conflict with each other to make sense

There are conflicting codes; Personally I would be leaning toward alternator or PCM
Take the car to a shop and have them to a system analysis test on the battery, starter, and alternator. Ask them If they will do a voltage drain across the battery terminals and ask them to check for AC voltage at idle and 2K rpm. If they dont know how to do that, do not take it to that shop for diagnostics ever.

If your alternator is kicking out AC voltage, It will cause the PCM to freak out and "ghost" codes.

To check for AC voltage, you need to us a volt meter, put it on AC volts; Put red lead on the output terminal on the alternator, and the black lead on a GOOD ground.

if its more than .25 v...you need alternator

 

P171 & P172 at the same time? WOW!