ya high heat probably did my coating in. i was running a 2.8" pully with no cooling mods or water meth. that probably did it.

havent had time to take pics yet. i will take off the blower in a week or so when i port it out.

and how could I of "messed it up in some other way??" it had never been apart or off the car before that pic was taken. the only thing that could of done it was heat. and if that is the case i bet a lot of peoples blowers look similar to mine.

 

I am a little confused here. Is that picture recent? Is it a before spraying picture or after the 30,000kms of spraying? You first talk about when you will spray you will be able to run more timing, cooler IATs, etc..then you talk about spraying for 30,000kms. When does that picture fall in the timeframe (before or after spraying for 30,000kms)? Your statement is a little unclear, please clarify

If that was after spraying for 30,000kms, I would bet that heat wasn't the only culprit. I have seen this before...looks similar to the M90s I was referring to in my previous post.

If that was before spraying for 30,000kms...you coating will be completely gone by now.

Again, please clarify the timeline here.

 

Kenny spec, I thought we had agreed that the coating had burned off after you did like 10 runs one after another and you actually SMELLED the coating being burned. Why are you showing that picture here. Im sure it was not the meth that caused it but the small of a pulley you had + the constant runs creating the blower run under Very high Temps. Probably around 160+ That will KILL any coating.

 

i have something to add that ironiclly i didnt forget from chemistry class back in high school. The reason u can inject water, and not injest water (through your CAI) is because the injected water is atomized, allowing it to pass through the motor without snapping rods (also if you had a straw the size of a CAI, you could probably suck in a gallon of water in a few seconds with the vacuum thats being created from the blower, but with meth injection you wouldnt go through a gallon for about 2 weeks maybe?)

As far as the cooling effect goes (now here comes the chem) It takes 100 calories of heat to make 1 gram of water turn from a liquid to a gas. Water is one of the most efficent absorbers of heat, which is why its used in these applications. I personally run a water meth kit as do many others, because it allows the motor to stay cooler longer, and it also steam cleans the valves and cylinder heads haha.

Even with the most efficent cooling systems, temps are always going to rise, but how much and how fast they recover is dependant on many things.

 

i drove the car for about 5000kms then got stg2 and a 2.8 pully. drove like that for about another 10,000kms then got water/meth and hp tuners. drove like that for about 30,000kms went to the dyno did 4 runs then took the pic the next day. it could be the high temps from the dyno but i was running water meth at the time. i did not log IAT2 tempa at the dyno though but the blower did not feel that hot after the runs.

either way i do not think that having no coating is hurting me at all. i havent found any negative side effects.


im gonna conduct a test to show how good water meth actually works for cooling.......im gonna log a run with HPtuners with the intercooler pump turned off and no water meth and do a second run with the intercooler turned off and using water meth. You guys will be amased at the difference the water meth makes.

 

Be safe when doing that, we don't want your engine going bye bye, and i'm sure you don't as well

 

Kennyspec,

no one has really been able to confirm negative effects of not having the coating on the rotors. The only thing obvious to me is the small loss of boost due to increasing the tolerance (allowing some "blow-by"). So, if it makes you happy, and you see positive result....then spray away! However, if it were me, I would find a way to spray after the blower and not before.

 

well i completed my experement and here are the results.


outside temp 5*F


i did a pull in 4th gear starting at 2000rpm and ending at 4000rpm.

first pull was with the intercooler pump turned off and NO water meth.
IAT2 temps started at 45*F at 2000rpm and ended up at 140*F at 6000rpm


let the IAT2 temps fall back to normal before run 2

Run2 the intercooler pump is still turned OFF but water meth is turned ON

IAT2 started at 44* this time at 2000rpm and ended up at 100* at 6000rpm.

40* lower from the water meth.....im gonna put all this info into a graph so that you can see the diff the water meth makes.

oh and also with the water meth on the car was 1.5 seconds faster to go from 2000rpm to 4000rpm in 4th gear.

id say those gains are impressive

 

I've built meth kits for several boosted cars, my ss included. The purpose for methanol/water injection is four fold. 1 the methanol has a higher octane rating than pump gas so you can run more timing. 2 it is a fuel, it does burn. more fuel = more power. 3 the water acts as a quencer it helps stave off high IAC temps, lowering intake temps. lower air temp means denser air, which means more air, more air=more power. 4 the mist acts as a steam cleaner, cleaning the inside of your motor. It pulls away carbon deposites around the intake runners and valves and injector heads. Long term, the motor last longer.
The big problem with methanol is that it is corrosive after a long time of use it can erode away your rubber plumbing, even aluminum.
An alternate to methanol would be Isopropyl you have to mix the the ratios a little different. Something like 57 alky 43 water. (depends on what your car likes) On my SRT-4 I saw 35hp (dynoed), my ss doesn't feel like it made that much but I haven't had it dynoed to prove it. Also alky kits are safer than nos because it does not offer the same "shock" to the motor as nitrous or the lean conditions.

 

now what if you did a 50/50 mix with the alk/water??

 

I love this... great advice.

 

ORED sorry I posted that wrong it should have been 57 water 43 alky (late night brain wasn't working) you can run 50/50 but you probably wont see a difference. And when you mix it 50/50 or stronger it becomes flameable so if you rupture your tank, or spill some, or whatever, it becomes a fire hazard. The 57 water 43 alky mixture requires the heat and pressure of the combustion camber to ignite.

 

how about 60water 40. alky

 

60w/40a is cool, but like I said it really depends on what your motor likes, each one is a little different.

 

I've built a bunch of alcohol kits for my cars and others. It's a GREAT way to reduce temps and add some octane/fuel. I personally didn't use washer fluid as you never know exactly what you are getting. They don't seem like the most reliable source for an exact % of alcohol and water. If you had a higher mix one time and you tuned it to the max and got a lower concentration next time things can go boom. I've used 100% denatured, mixed denatured, isoproply (rubbing) 90%, and everything in between till about 50/50. There was never an exact # to run in any given car. It's just what each individual car liked. Some of the benefits; It will not get heat soak like on closes systems. Will not get pressure drop like on an air to air intercooler. You can run more boost on pump gas. On my 87 Grand National I had a te60 turbo, and some bolt ons. 93 octane I could get 16 psi with an occasional 1-2*KR on average in the summer. I built a simple single stage non progressive alky kit, m10 nozzle, 10psi turn on point and was running 24-25 psi NO knock. The car went from quick to an animal. With that turn on point I would never spray while just driving around regularly. 1 bottle lasted forever. On my 98 GTP it was a little different. I had a 3.4" pulley, PEM's, 3" dp (no cat), cat back, CAI, and tuned it myself using DHP. Before I tuned it myself i had a DHP 1.0 pcm and was getting some KR. I made another alky kit and noticed that I had to turn it on at a very low psi as roots build boost FAST and the alcohol wouldn't come on fast enough. To fix the problem I built a simple 2 stage kit. I used a boost switch set to 5psi and installed a power resistor that was 1/2 of the resistance across the terminals of the pump and ran it to ground. I made a WOT switch and bracket to run straight to ground tapped in BEFORE the resistor for the boost switch. So what happened was when I hit 5psi the pump would run about 1/2 the psi output, and when it was floored it would go to full on. This helped keep down on alky consumption, but a progressive controller would work best. Another thing about spraying before the supercharger. While it's been argued about ruining the coating who cares. You might lose a psi while not spraying, but while you're spraying it helps to seal the rotors anyway and you could (happened to myself and a lot of members on the gtp boards) actually gain a couple psi from sealing. That's my take and experience so take it as you will.