well i guess i can join the list of blown balts so i have 3g to mess with need some idea on what i should get for the motor and what i should use im am going to a return style fuel system so thats off the list. please help

 

new pistons obviously

 

Dual Pass and H/E, for when you dont have Meth

 

3 grand isnt going to be enough for much..i had the same problem and donig a rebuild was around 4 and thats because i got sponsored...its one of those u mid as well since u have the engine open anyways..u can do new pistons only.

 

3g is what i have for part money should i get stock size pistons or up the compresson and im getting the rods from jbodyperformance

 

I wouldn't up the compression, it's really not worth the tuning hassles it creates. Go with stock comp or lower and your motor will thank you.

 

ok good to know

 

Just wondering, what were you doing when it blew?

 

^x2!

 

i have a 2.6 pully but had it set at 18 psi with a 11.1 af i was doing a highway pull from 2 to 3 all the way to 7000 rpms she back fired loud ass hell than when i came to a stop sound it like a subaru and than i lift the old and oil all over the place

 

damn, and accoring to your sig you have a methanol kit and this still happened

 

I have been up and down on the idea that I might have a blown piston ring because I have miss at idle that I cant get rid of...but I have never had a huge backfire and my dipstick has never popped out...but I would think meth would have prevented harmful detonation in your situation...was is it dyno tuned?

 

yeah it was dyno tuned and if you really wanna know if your pistion ring just start the car and pull the diptick out mine was pushing out a **** load of air out of the tube. plus i had the car mod and everything when i first bought it and i got atleast 1 and a hafe years off that tune before she blow so i guess what im saying is its bound to happen to theses cars at some point only has 36,000 on here

i think the meth prolonged the ring from blown but couldnt stop it and my AIT2 never went above 100 at wide open so i dont know

 

We've been rebuilding the ecotecs here in AZ for around $1,500.......you can build one for less that $3k............. Hell they cost like $2k out of the junk yard and then you have all those spare parts.

Proof that cast pistons are shotty!

Word, we did a 10:1 motor and then had to buy another set of pistons so got 9.1:1

The 10:1 is worthless on these boost levels. But when it was on 109 octane and tuned for full advance it pulled 425bhp on the Interceptor. (yeah....I know I know)

 

what about 8.5:1

 

if you go turbo sure

 

so what would be good for say 18 psi on or chager

 

stock compression or 9 to 1 and mill the head, get a thinner head gasket for a tighter quench.

 

ok sound good how much should be takeing off the head

 

Milling the head and thinning the head gasket are going to bump compression up. I say just go stock compression on 18psi. That's nothing.

And 8.5:1 retardedly low for supercharger. We were pushing a turbo to the max and 9:1 was fine.

 

Ecotecs don't quench.

 

really, why is that?

 

Too much space between the top of the piston and the combustion chamber. Anything larger then .045" on our bore size is considered too far to be considered decent quench.

Also stated in those new Ecotec build books they just published on gmblogs.com for 2008 for every topic there is an introduction. They stated on intro page 3 that stock ecotec pistons are non-squish.

 

when are these new build books to be out?

 

They are published on gmblogs.com These are new publications. Most of the info from last years edition is published under the last topic.

Edit: http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer...nce-build-book