TURBOS are cool but suck at same time! when you have a S/C you'll stay safe because you can only push a s/c to a certain point before it stops a turbo you will just keep turning up the boost until it blows trust me on this one i beat my friend in his SRT-4(on stock boost) well on stock internals now he is pushing 27 PSI "SPIKES" but the car is now unreliable because of detonation and overheating and it never stays in the same boost/PSI range one minute hell be at 25PSI constant next hell be at 15 PSI with spikes of 27

gl in what ever you do thoe just make sure to change the pistons asap, and get a very high quality intercooler and some waterinjection to keep the car stable.

 

You can't get the whipple anywhere else?

 

Converting a Car to Turbo is a major undertaking, Your car is designed form the factory with the Supercharger in mind, everything works well with it, it will cost less and you can do more the closer you stick to how it came..

Upgraded Fuel Pump, Injectors, Management, Your Whipple upgrade and a trick pulley. Needless to say, it's fast now, so it will be alot of fun after these upgrades.

Suspension is very important as well. Try to keep the level of performance balanced in the car, it's fine to have the extra HP so it's faster, but then the suspension and braking that were great on the car, begin to fall short because of the speed and acceleration.

 

the 2.0 s/c motor , was borrowed from the SAAB 9-3 turbo

im not sure if it was the low boost or high boost , but my guess is high boost

 

Something else is wrong with that Neon. Might have a BOV problem or pipe leak.

BrianMP5T...words of wisdom?

 

The motor might have has diferent pistons than the Saab, I think the 2.0 SS is a 9.5:1 compression which is fine for pump gas and a good intercooler. The Saab would more than likely had 9:1 or even 8:1 depending on how much boost it was running..

I will look into it...

 

The Spikes must be really scary.

If it's a manual boost controller, Make sure that the lines are not kinked and that they are at least larger than the stock ones.

An electronic controller is normally much better at controlling spikes becasue they are "Active" and not just mechanical.

The BOV tuning is diferent depending on the model.

If it's a Turbo XS like mine, with the car running you should be able to move the piston in the BOV rather freely but make sure that it closes fully whenever moved. The final adjustment is normally made after a test drive, You can hear if there is alot of compressor surge or even if the BOV is leaking. I like to make it a little too tight and then work on getting rid of the surge rather than trying to balance a leak. It's easier to hear from surge to adjusted rather than leak to adjusted.

 

srt-4's are known to flutter and have not been able to be completely controlled unless you go with aftermarket turbo and have complete control over the ecu. the ecu's in the srt's are mean little "boogers". lol. just thought i'd throw that in there.

most turbo vehicles do have a spike in boost and then settle down and stay at a maintained psi. for instance my friends 300zxtt spikes at 19.5 psi then settles and maintains 17.5 psi. this is mainly due to he still has stock turbos and they are just "running out of breath" near redline. if he were to upgrade, i'm sure he wouldn't have that problem anymore.

brad