Area47

shamless plug. i have had gm engineers come to me and ask questions about lsj calibrations and how i got things to work.

trying to back over things is fine and dandy, but you're going to end up in the same place.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

will do, when i pull it I am going over the whole gamut. If it needs replaced I am going to replace it. While its out I am going to do a full rebuild whether it needs it or not. Cheap insurance and an MHI rebuilt kit is only like 100 bucks.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

Race teams or GM in respect to production cars? Just curious cause that is

I know I am hardheaded but I do things my way first then if they break I tried it my way, I will go back to what is proven and dig deeper. I have always been this way with fabricatiing my own suspension systems for several trucks and jeeps and now trying to get into cars is painstaking slow and the cost is a lot more than I would have thought compared to my 4x4 past.

Area47

both actually.

im just advising on whats going to happen. i have been in those shoes before, and am stubborn to a fault. when it happens and it will, just smile and go with it.

zrated89

iTrader: (15)

good to know i will be tuning mine on 1000s this weekend

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

I went back and read your 3 pages in that thread. So you are saying the ecm is going to start acting up and erratic? What are the symptoms of the ecm confusion.

dktgarlick

What's up everyone. I have a pte 5431 with a .63 ar pushing 20 psi and was wondering when I should hit full boost? I am curious because I see everyone's videos and it sounds like they don't have a lot of lag and they are just pinning the tires.. I barely spin in second with my all seasons.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

Spinning tires has more to do with the driver than boost lag or "full boost". Remember just cause your not making full boost til later in the rpm range, you are still actively making boost from <1psi all the way to 20psi. I would not want boost to come on like a switch while under acceleration (some like this) but its just stupid on the street. By the time you have run through the gears the race or screwing around on the highway is over. What you want is a linear amount of boost vs rpm. That also comes with a properly sized turbo and AR. Your not going to have to worry about that with the 5431.

jonnymerk

Hey all what if anything should I be concerned with about my turbo once my motor is done. Mainly concerning the oil and any potential debris like metal shavings from the fresh build. Is that gonna get through to the turbo?

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

I am curious about this too, I think the dirty oil in my car slowly killed the bearings in my turbo in the first weeks of me making what I consider big power for a 20g. I will be able to confirm this tomorrow, I pulling the turbo for an inspection and rebuild.

jonnymerk, i can tell you that my oil filter was so dirty that it was restricting oil in the first few hundred miles. When I did the second oil change the oil was pretty black. I feel this is mainly due to oil entering the intercooler pipes from seals going out on my turbo. But the filter had a few tiny flecks of metal in the filter upon further inspection, what you might find after having the head or block milled but nothing major.

Change your oil after a few hundred miles and inspect your filter. My oil pressure was way better and more in line with engine speed. The car was a lot happier after the oil filter and change to 10w30.

nwss

Yay 2679lbs with no me, cage, or gas lol

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

Rebuilt my 20g today. Freaking love this turbo, makes great power, easy rebuild and mine was in awesome shape. I didnt find anything in the wastegate or turbo to make me think there was boost problems but the bearings were beat!!!! The oil seal on the compressor side was also hard as a rock and square, where as its supposed to be soft and round. Definately is going to make a nice difference if the bearings were the culprit of my limited boost. Going to have the CHRA VSR balanced on monday. I am at a work stop for now.





In this pic you can see all the old parts vs the new parts. The bearings are brass and really beat up on the old side. Everything on the new stuff is just pristine.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

I think I am going to powder coat the compressor while its out. I already ceramic coated the hot side and log manifold, might as well bling out the other side.

jonnymerk

looks good. So other then changing the oil out after a few miles etc...you don't think there is any other precautions? I think at most my mechanic got 6 attempted pulls on the dyno after the turbo was put on before he decided that the motor was failing. Once opened we saw sparkles around the crank and rod bearings etc...

Bad-A-SS

iTrader: (3)

So look what arrived this morning from HAHN

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

not sure what you mean as far as motor failing. Did you destroy your motor?

I did nothing but change the oil and get a tune right away. I made the 420hp on the dyno with just 100 miles on the new build. I am at 1000 miles now and the car is running awesome except for these blackened journal bearings. I have had other things that were oil related but got them all taken care of.

edit, in case you ask.
oil in my charge pipe (bad turbo seal, confimred) fixed
oil filter crushed under pressure, fixed
oil pressure low due to filter, fixed
timing tensioner allowing slap due to restricted oil flow, fixed
i run an oil pressure gague, read 40-60 psi with crushed filter runs at 40-100 now
changed oil viscosity to 10w30, car and oil pressure are much happier, pressure is more in line with engine speed
oil pressure low caused the tensioner to allow chain slap and broke a guide bolt, fixed with a 10.9 grade bolt instead of stock 9,8
would have caught it all way earlier but have only had the oil gauge about a month. big help since there is so much riding on the oil sytem with a turbo car
search turbo duck for all the stuff I have been doing to the car, its all well documented.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

I dont think you need the anti surge holes. is hahn offering an upgrade to the pt turbos? they offered to have me bring my car down to florida for a new turbo kit, nice parts.

jonnymerk

I mean I'm having my motor rebuilt. I had a freshly rebuilt precission 5857 installed then tuned for...my motor went on the dyno after only the 6th pull. The turbo was on only for time before we decided to stop and tear it all down.

Bad-A-SS

iTrader: (3)

Well considering I only paid 1200 for that turbo with all the bells and whistles it wasn't bad

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

how much the full kit or did you price it individually. Cursious about the log manifold cause I think my hahn manifold is a tight fit since it favors the center where as most manifolds favor the driver side.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

sorry to hear that, that is the thing about these motors they just dont last long at big power. There are all kinds of guys making 350 plus horse power but not many of them doing it on the stock bottom end for very long.

Bad-A-SS

iTrader: (3)

For all the parts from Hahn it was 3700 something. And the Intake manifold I got from ULWiz for like 300.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

nice, I paid 2000 for my kit, lol. Is that journal bearing or ball bearing?

Bad-A-SS

iTrader: (3)

Dual ceramic ball bearing, .63 AR, 3in exhaust exit vband

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

thats the one to get, 1200 is a great price.