My 07 SS/SC has been acting very retarded lately? I'll be driving, and sometimes from a stop, i'll take off quickly. I notice if i floor it, tires spin. Now, i floor it and no spin? Launch isn't that quick either? I here the SC but no wheel peeling. I was in second, and same ****. When idling in 2nd at 50km my boost guage shows -80 when i could have sworn it is around -60 idling. Could i have a plugged air filter,bad maf sensor? I love my car, and dont want to be sucked in to any exspensive bullshit. Thank you to whoever gives me advice.

 

How many miles on it? Ever replaced your IC pump?

Sounds to me like your IC pump is shot.. or on it's way out

 

You're running -80 Vacuum? That seems like a lot.

 

Miles? Not sure, in km i have 76,000. Ive never changed the IC pump. Is it $$$$? I know i need a tune for all the exhaust/header/AI work done. I have had a constant CEL on since.

 

Well I'm runnin -20hg at idle, so it this guy might be way out there

 

Thanks, makes me feel even better!

 

What's the CEL? Regardless, I'd probably stop beating on it till you get that sorted out.

 

20hg is normal. 80 is like huge leak.
IC pump is around $100.

 

post your peoblems in the problems and service section and check your emissions fuse

 

False, 80 is not only impossible, but it would be a lack of a leak.

10 would be a vaccum leak.

OP: Post the codes... I doubt it is S/C related. In the inital acceleration that produces wheelspin/squeel you should not be boosing that much. Perhaps a tuneup is in order, have you replaced the spark plugs/done any general maintenence? You may have a misfire as well... Pulling codes will help a lot.

You may have a bad IC pump, due to the fact that you have so many miles. When mine was bad I could still easily turn the tires over.

 

Since you have a permanent CEL when new things pop up you've got no way of knowing. Like... now?

Go to autozone or whereever, get the codes read. Come back and post them.

 

The OP posted he was seeing -60-80
I'm only going to assume what he's telling us is true.

 

thats a lot of vaccume sound like a cloged air filter to me

 

Right, but if there is more vacuum, that is not a leak, but a "lack of leak where there should be one". A vacuum leak would cause lower than normal vacuum.

 

Since he listed his mileage in km, I would imagine that -60 and -80 is kpa, which would be 17 and 23 inhg

 

Is it not pulling has hard anymore?

Maybe you're just getting better traction?

 

I'm just going to step in and say one word.

CANADA

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0016_large.jpg

assuming a bit of error in his reading and conversion, that's around 20-23 inHG. So i'd say that's normal.

 

First off, i wanna thank all you guy's taking your time to respond to my issues. Yes i live in Toronto, and canadian boost guages are different. I was driving today and when i went to 2nd, i floored it, and was only pushing 2-3 psi. Im thinking blockage of some sort? My KN typhoon came with the hydraguard, but i was told i didnt need it. Maybe it is clogged? Next thursday im going up to a buddies place, and he will scan it. I will post all codes i find that night. Again,,,thanks for all the advice and time. This is a great place, and appreciate how fast everyone left comments. Cheers EH!!! PS We dont really talk like that, it's more of a Newfie thing!!! LOL

 

Are you sure your clutch isn't slipping? Are your rpms climbing but you aren't gaining speed at the same rate?

 

mustangs and lightnings use the same intercooler pump as Lsjs

#C631 2003 2004 Ford F-150 Mustang Electric Intercooler Water Pump 0392022002 | eBay

 

Ok i would bet that ur bypass valve is stuck open if u..or a major boost leak...a boost leak would more than likely through a lean code and the car would run funny at idel. If the bypass valve os stuck open u would see very low boost if any depending on pulley size. So check the vacume hoses goin to the bypass valve on ur sc. There is a thread on here somewhere the can help just loom for it..

 

Tjolley just nailed it on the head lol alos just check your ic pump wireing from the harness to make sure it isnt one of those cars that has the polarity switched. if its good test it and if it still doesnt work give it a few whacks with a hammer while running and it may start working. sometimes they seize. but definatley checkout your bypass that sounds to be the problemo aye =) i have friends in prince edward island and they totaly talk like that aye

 

East coasters actually talk like that. Toronto is basically a Canadian version of NY. Im having the car checked tomorrow. Would a bypass valve throw a code? I also noticed i get a strange clicking noise from my clutch when i depress it. It is not consistant, but scary to say the least since our cars are an expensive PITA to replace. GM here wants $1800 and my mechanic said at least $1200 ish. Im still on my Original clutch btw. Off topic, i had my exhaust installed, and after about 3 months, my car rattles on a cold start. it goes away after a minute or so. It sounds like its coming from under my door as opposed to the engine. Would,Could a heat shield do that, but stop from heating up? Im getting every damn thing done i can possibly do to fix all issues. BTW If anyones is into Dark wave/Alt, check out my myspace page REBURN | Free Music, Tour Dates, Photos, Videos

 

im not posotive that a bad dump valve would throw a light because if its stuck in the open position its still doing what its designed to do when your not boosting. so i wouldnt think that it would throw a code but instead give you the problem that you are having now. does that make sense?

 

OK Everyone, i have all the codes so here goes!!!

1.P0128- Coolant Temp below thermostat regulating temperature

2.P0420-Catalyst threshold below efficiency. BANK 1

3.P128- Manufacturing control fuel metering

4.P1101-Manufacturing control fuel air (dirty air filter?)

5.Catalyst efficiency below threshold

Well, it looks like i have enough here. Codes were cleared, car had more power, but not full, and boost is still at 2kpa. Could my boost guage be faulty as well since i had 3 replaced already? Bypass rod is fine as it moves freely, so im stumped???