It can close, it just wont for some reason.

 

probably because the solenoid that switchs when vaccum/boost is applied to the boost bypass isn't working correctly.

 

GOOD SUMMATION OF THE PROBLEM MAXIM!

Is that solenoid part of the bypass valve?

 

It's an actuator for the actual valve.

 

But it has to be working correctly. It was just working correctly on yours at 17psi. I drove all the way home, and didn't see anything more than 2.5psi.

 

For one, I know it's not the blower as it was pumping out 18-20psi right before I oober packed it and sent it out.

Please post pictures of the setup with close ups please. I can help if I can see what is going on.

 

There is something electric hooked up in between the vac line and the soleniod on the LSJ's. Fred and I didn't think it was needed but maybe it is?

 

 

Plug the maf sensor in... ?

Nvermind, lol

 

Its a map sensor, it was tuned around it.

 

MAP, MAF, lol. I never claim to be a mechanic.

 

The map sensor was backwards? Simple detail to over look. Everything else looks good other than that, why is ther no connecter to the sensor on top of the blower? Is the sensor being used a cap per say now?

 

Not using the map sensor.

 

Dude, have you re-read Rebel's directions? I missed one step with my twinscrew install and it caused the car to only boost 10psi. After the fix it was hitting 24psi.

Do you have Mase's or Jim's number. They were more than helpful for me, and they don't mind helping out at any time.

 

follow the vacuum lines going to the by pass vavle, they lead to a solenoid, that has 3 vacuum lines hooked up to it and wires going to it. This solenoid switches where vacuum/boost is going to the bypass valve to open or close it, if this is not hooked up correctly or not working properly you have your problem.

.....edit... now that i think about it, since it electronically controlled and you have a 2.4, maybe it is not needed because i doubt your ECM has the controls for it..

 

why is the bypass hooked straight to the manifold? the manifold is supposed to be hooked up to a medium electronic part (not sure what it is) then that is what hooked back up to where you have the bypass hooked to the manifold. At least that is how my SC is hooked, sorry if i sound like a girl with the jigamajoo and the higamajarm, i haven't looked up the actual part names, but i'm sure that the bypass valve actuator isn't supposed to be directly hooked to the manifold.

 

^^Thats how they say it should be hooked up. Really from what I saw it was hardly a kit, most of the fabrication was done by SMG not even part of the rebel kit. So i would assume the direction are sub par aswell.

 

He has a 2.4L not a 2.0, so he doesn't have that control. It's not necessary anyhow. That's just so the ECM can control the max boost by limiting it.

I know this may sound weird, but have you guys tried hooking up a manual boost contoller to the line from the manifold to the bypass? It might work like a turbos and allow you to crank up the boost. Just a thought.

 

You aren't the first one to mention that....hmmm.

 

Make sure you have a good vacuum source the one from the center of the manifold is the only one to use.
the Problem sounds as if it is bypass based. Or the supercharger might have some issues.

 

Yeah we are getting 20lbs of vac at idle.

 

Just another thought, but didn't you say you were going to use your stock alternator instead of a 2.0 one? If so, I think it turns the oppsite way it should so the belt may not be allowed to fully spin the blower properly.

 

I guess, but there wasn't any more tension on the alternator if we spun it clockwise or counterclockwise. So I'm going to go with a negative on that (for now). If all else fails, we may try swapping alternators if it's the only thing left to do to try to get it to boost properly.

 

plug the line for the bypass and test it.... aka boost bypass mod. Just to check if that's the issue, but I don't think it should be running directly to the manifold like that, there is a reason the ss/sc has that controller for it. and I"m pretty sure on the GM kits that its run differently than that. I have the instruction manual somewhere on my comp. If I can find it, I"ll post it up

 

Did you end up finding those diretions? I'm curious to see how they route the vac lines without some sort of mbc, espeecially since there is no electric solenoid on those kits.