Well I just wrapped up my custom Dual Pass mod last night thanks to the How To section giving me the idea. And I was thinking.. Man I just got done freaking getting all the air out the system from my H/E install. Now I gotta start over?


Nope, presenting option A.1 its quick, its easy, its cheap and best of all it works!












I didnt have any .040 orifices left from my option b kit from back in the day, so I quickly thought up a cheap solution. I buy lots of silicones being a "DIY" type of guy. I grabbed one of the plastic tips that come with a tube of silicone and modified it. It comes with no hole in the end and a tapered shape to it which is perfect for this. I grabbed a small drill bit and made a hole in the tip. Then I cut off the first three sections and inserted that into the tube just before the nipple that I had tapped into the filler housing.

This slows down the flow to ensure most of the fluid flows through the system and doesent bypass the H/E. But still allows trapped air in the H/E to escape easily.



I dont have pictures of the piece I made but I did take a pic of the plastic tip I used to make it.. Notice the first three steps are missing.








All in all this worked out flawlessly and I was able to fill the system 1 time only.


I took a video of the air bleed in action but my camera doesent do the best video and not much can be seen but i'll add it just cause...




I used a mixture of 15% dexcool and 85% distilled water.




I saw good results on a 1-4 pull with the Dual Pass on a 2.8. Its very hot in the desert so my Iat-1 were between 96-101. Before Dual Pass my Iat-2 temps would reach 158-162 by 5000rpm in 4th. After Dual Pass with the same Iat-1 I saw a max of 136 Iat-2 by 5000 in 4th. The car stayed in tune much better as well and I was able to add 1* of timing putting me at 17* instead of 15.5-16* and the afr stayed dead on. Before Dual Pass it would slightly richen up by the top of 4th. With targeted afr being 11.7 it would be at 11.2-11.4 by the end of the pull. Now it stays dead on the whole pull.


So all in all im very impressed with the total money spent coming in @ $16 and some change. Thats including the fitting and hose for the DIY Dual Pass.


This isnt a "how to" just something to get the wheels turning on those who like to work on thier car when bored.

 

Innovation, love it.

nice work.

 

Great thinking!

 

I will be doing this very soon! Good write up

 

Quick noob question. Where does that hose for you're Option A tap into? I tried to find a good diagram for the Option B but no such luck.

 

Top of the H/E.

 

Tis what i figured. I'm planning on doing dual pass, heat exchanger and option b all at once here right away. May scrap the option b and try this. I know ZZP has a really good hose routing diagram of all 3 at once but cant for the life of me find it. I think i saw it on one of these forums. Can anyone help me out?

 

this works well, option b adds like another qt. of fluid but i dont think its worth $100

here is the diagram your looking for.. it does not include routing for opt b i dont think zzp has produced such a thing i may be wrong but here is the best one i know of.

http://www.zzperformance.com/miscftp/HE%20routing2.jpg


here is the option b install instructions.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/pdfs/sidekit.pdf

thanks, i just got o tired of topping it off everyday for like 2 weeks I had the 90* elbow and the 2 hose nipples lying around. I spent most of my $16 on the brass fitting and hose for the custom dual pass i made.

 

I've just got a hose that runs from the bleeder up to the same height as my filler neck with a valve i can open and close on it.. option b has always seemed over complicated to me.. LOL

i like your design too ;-)

 

thats pretty good thinking too, then you dont have to worry about tapping the stock filler neck and it leaking. i was worried about that but the plastic is actually pretty thick and i got a good tap/seal and it doesent leak and it holds pressure. your way is more fool proof and easier for those who dont own a tap set. but on the down side it doesent continuously bleed the sytem.

Both good options over spending $100+ on option b.

 

love it lol i was gonna do that except im afraid that it might too much liquid to that neck that it might move ouuta that top hose on the top...ionno if that happened to u or if it didnt...but again its a very cheap solution with great results...if any mods available please move to the how to sections coz this is a great writeup

 

Very good idea. Can't believe this was never done before.

Although, it's pretty easy to add a bigger tank, and more coolant is always better.

 

This is way cheaper.

 

An OEM coolant tank is like $25. I've sold those fill T's for $15 before. It's not expensive at all.

 

An Option B kit is $100 bucks

 

Who said buy a kit? this is a home-made solution, that's what i'm comparing it to. If you're gonna run the hose for the bleeder and get the fittings, just replace the fill with a T and use a full-size bottle. Very little added cost. My option B 'kit' I put together cost me less than $30 for parts and I bought a brand new saturn coolant tank from GM. Coulda done it even cheaper.

 

im sorry but im sooooo confusted on option A and B...
any one have a quick summary on each? please and thank you

 

Come on a brand new tank is $30 bucks? I'm gonna have to check that out tomorrow haha

Option A runs a hose from the top of the heat exchanger to the small stock resivoir to help bleeding. Option B runs a hose from the heat exchanger to a much larger resivoir tank to where the stock small resivoir should be for easy bleeding

 

sounds like b would cool better

 

Possibly a tiny bit with the extra fluid it holds but its more meant for easy bleeding. But for $100 bucks for the kit compared to $15 for Option A, it just does pretty much the same thing for a lot less

 

hmm i still dont really see how option a help intake temps?

 

it does not help cooling, it helps bleed the air out of the system which can take up to a week or so generally speaking.

if you had air in the system then it would cause cooling issues, then this would help cool but it doesent directly help cooling at all.


option A does not include a bleeding system. thats why i named this option A.1 cause its a modified option A but not quite option B.

i agree.

i had no idea oem was that cheap, i have been checking the local junkyard for weeks looking for something compatible with no luck.

i will add a oem tank now that i know this.

more coolant is always better. plus it gives room for expansion. to be honest this was one of those "im bored gotta try something" lol

and thank you for posting in the dual pass DIY section you gave me the idea to simply drill/tap and thread the end plate. worked great, no leaks at all. but you have to CAREFULLY place the fitting in order to clear the oil filter housing. luckily i thought to pre fit the end plate cause my orig chosen location would not of worked at all. lol