Option B made my IAT double?
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Option B made my IAT double?
ok something is wrong here im getting 145-160 driving, is the air just not out of it all the way when i got WOT i hear this fffffsssffffffffffffssss noise, ive filled the surge tank twice now, how long does this take?
do you have a leak somewhere??? is your pump smoked?? did you switch the postions of the cores the right way?? did you connect the 1/4 " hose from the top of you heatexchanger to the top of the surge tank to bleed air? I don't see what else it could be.
wow bro, i was playing around with my interceptor today, and at WOT in 3rd and 4th the highest i saw was 140*...and i have stage 2 and 2.9 with no cooling mods...
u sure your IC pumps working??
u sure your IC pumps working??
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I hooked the air bleed to the stock heat exchanger but capped off the one on the cx racing, if thats even what it is
Is this a problem? and no im not sure if the pumps working theres really not any way to tell
Is this a problem? and no im not sure if the pumps working theres really not any way to tell
pinch off the air bleed line and see if the flow stops into the surge tank. you'll be able to tell.. and yes 160 degrees just driving is very bad... i have option b and the cx xchanger and i see around 90-110 at around 70 degree out side. and thats driving it alittle hard and stopping a lights. on the highway i see around 80-90 .
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did you have alot of air in the system at the start?, how many times did you have to fill the surge tank?\
im wondering if that cap on the cx shouldnt be capped and should be run along with a T fitting with the stock air bleed
im wondering if that cap on the cx shouldnt be capped and should be run along with a T fitting with the stock air bleed
.040 restrictor in the bleed line and remember I mentioned to you that your plumbing will tell the story?
Also did you not have a problem with the laminova tubes and the seals, and you were getting hardware store o rings and were advised to get viton seals?
There is never enough time to do it right, but there is always time to do it over....
Also did you not have a problem with the laminova tubes and the seals, and you were getting hardware store o rings and were advised to get viton seals?
There is never enough time to do it right, but there is always time to do it over....
There is an easy way to tell... put a jumper on it and see if you hear is humming and the coolant bubbling. If it doesn't you gots no pump.
Last edited by BriantheLion26; Apr 26, 2008 at 05:42 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Brian the Lion is 100%. Top left of the fuse box on my redline i cant remember where on a cobalt, jump it and the air should come spitting out of the bleed line...this deal is so f****d up drives me crazy...all that work and no results. 
Guys plan it ahead , draw a plumbing diagram, get some advice, read the forum, get the right tools, get a drain pan; read up on it all the GM build book, the instructions for the stage kits are really good. Plan it and then execute. I feel sorry for Rodimus good guy doing his best but
self inflicted wounds dont count, comeon!

Guys plan it ahead , draw a plumbing diagram, get some advice, read the forum, get the right tools, get a drain pan; read up on it all the GM build book, the instructions for the stage kits are really good. Plan it and then execute. I feel sorry for Rodimus good guy doing his best but
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anyone have a diagram of what to jump for this intercooler test?
the intercooler not working would not make sense though because ive had to top off the coolant 2x, if its not working it shouldnt have moved at all
the intercooler not working would not make sense though because ive had to top off the coolant 2x, if its not working it shouldnt have moved at all
X _
_ X
Standing at the front, put the wire/jumper in the top left hole and bottom right. If its not toast, it will come right on. You can do the same for the fans for track days. I jump the fans 1 i believe. I would have to look to make sure. There is a fan 1 and fan 2 i believe. One runs them at 100% (holy ***** it blows a lot + kills battery), the other runs at like half speed. I ran the pump and fans at half speed for hours and my battery was always fine. PM or IM me if you have anymore questions.
I am assuming you didn't damage the laminova cores when you pulled all that crap apart? Everything was put back together right? Do you now realize why I didn't do the dual-pass yet... its a pain in the ass...
Brian the Lion is 100%. Top left of the fuse box on my redline i cant remember where on a cobalt, jump it and the air should come spitting out of the bleed line...this deal is so f****d up drives me crazy...all that work and no results. 
Guys plan it ahead , draw a plumbing diagram, get some advice, read the forum, get the right tools, get a drain pan; read up on it all the GM build book, the instructions for the stage kits are really good. Plan it and then execute. I feel sorry for Rodimus good guy doing his best but
self inflicted wounds dont count, comeon!

Guys plan it ahead , draw a plumbing diagram, get some advice, read the forum, get the right tools, get a drain pan; read up on it all the GM build book, the instructions for the stage kits are really good. Plan it and then execute. I feel sorry for Rodimus good guy doing his best but

I did all the research I could possibly do for the cobra h/e and only one thing didnt work, it wouldn't bleed like blown 4-banger said his did. Big woop, hot wired the pump, grabbed a chair and sat there with a big cup of dex-cool and watched it bleed. It was tough I know...
NOTE - I just looked.. the aftercooler fuse is on the far left, looking at it from the front, 2nd one up. It is not near the top.
Last edited by BriantheLion26; Apr 26, 2008 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Either im leaking and its not making a puddle or theres a TON of air in the system just took a 10 min drive beat the crap out of it till it got 130 degrees and the surge tank level dropped more, also the hoses dont feel like they have liquid in them, the cx racing intercooler is cool to the touch
I am guessing, (I dont run two h/e's) the plumbing goes from the out of the second h/e to the center hose of the 3 hose end plate... the two other hose ends (top and bottom of the end plate) go to a T. The single hose left from this T is connected to another T, one branch of this T goes to the reservoir, and one goes to water pump in. This is the hose end on the pump that is at 3 o'clock, parallel to the earth.
the hose end at 12 o clock in the pump goes in to the stock h/e. Now you have two h/e's. From the 12 oclock pump fitting go to the first h/e then go out of the first h/e in to the second h/e then out of the second h/e to the center position of the end plate... Dont forget the 1/8 pipe, 1/4 barb hose (with the .040 restrictor - tiny c hair hole) from the top of the stock h/e to top of the remote reservoir. Brian the lion are you with me?
I am guessing, (I dont run two h/e's) the plumbing goes from the out of the second h/e to the center hose of the 3 hose end plate... the two other hose ends (top and bottom of the end plate) go to a T. The single hose left from this T is connected to another T, one branch of this T goes to the reservoir, and one goes to water pump in. This is the hose end on the pump that is at 3 o'clock, parallel to the earth.
the hose end at 12 o clock in the pump goes in to the stock h/e. Now you have two h/e's. From the 12 oclock pump fitting go to the first h/e then go out of the first h/e in to the second h/e then out of the second h/e to the center position of the end plate... Dont forget the 1/8 pipe, 1/4 barb hose (with the .040 restrictor - tiny c hair hole) from the top of the stock h/e to top of the remote reservoir. Brian the lion are you with me?

Either im leaking and its not making a puddle or theres a TON of air in the system just took a 10 min drive beat the crap out of it till it got 130 degrees and the surge tank level dropped more, also the hoses dont feel like they have liquid in them, the cx racing intercooler is cool to the touch
I had "little" air problems with mine. I didn't want to move the damn thing till I knew air was out of it. And even when I did drive it I had coolant sitting in a container in the back just in case. I checked that filler neck all the time.
You are obviously experienced in this area, what are the problems with going to a dual pass. Longevity of the pump? Change in velocity? Would you agree that a cobra/huge ass cx racing H/E is atleast as good as doing the dual-pass alone if not better?
Last edited by BriantheLion26; Apr 26, 2008 at 06:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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at 110 IAT its not hurting anything, I flipped the cores in like 30 seconds, i dont see how anything could have gotten damaged, ive gone over the diagrams about 30 times its what its supposed to be
If the pump wasnt working why is the coolant level going down in the surge tank? Theres no puddles under it, and for the amount of coolant that I put in there would have to be a LARGE puddle
If the pump wasnt working why is the coolant level going down in the surge tank? Theres no puddles under it, and for the amount of coolant that I put in there would have to be a LARGE puddle
at 110 IAT its not hurting anything, I flipped the cores in like 30 seconds, i dont see how anything could have gotten damaged, ive gone over the diagrams about 30 times its what its supposed to be
If the pump wasnt working why is the coolant level going down in the surge tank? Theres no puddles under it, and for the amount of coolant that I put in there would have to be a LARGE puddle
If the pump wasnt working why is the coolant level going down in the surge tank? Theres no puddles under it, and for the amount of coolant that I put in there would have to be a LARGE puddle
Last edited by BriantheLion26; Apr 26, 2008 at 07:01 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Actually I don't feel the CX is good for the pump either! Myself I run a Cobra H/E and Meth. THe cars I have seen use the dual pass the gain is minimal at best! An H/E is a much better option!


