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Option B made my IAT double?

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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 04:40 PM
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Option B made my IAT double?

ok something is wrong here im getting 145-160 driving, is the air just not out of it all the way when i got WOT i hear this fffffsssffffffffffffssss noise, ive filled the surge tank twice now, how long does this take?
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 04:54 PM
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From: Philly
do you have a leak somewhere??? is your pump smoked?? did you switch the postions of the cores the right way?? did you connect the 1/4 " hose from the top of you heatexchanger to the top of the surge tank to bleed air? I don't see what else it could be.
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 04:54 PM
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wow bro, i was playing around with my interceptor today, and at WOT in 3rd and 4th the highest i saw was 140*...and i have stage 2 and 2.9 with no cooling mods...

u sure your IC pumps working??
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 04:59 PM
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I hooked the air bleed to the stock heat exchanger but capped off the one on the cx racing, if thats even what it is

Is this a problem? and no im not sure if the pumps working theres really not any way to tell
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 05:18 PM
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From: Philly
pinch off the air bleed line and see if the flow stops into the surge tank. you'll be able to tell.. and yes 160 degrees just driving is very bad... i have option b and the cx xchanger and i see around 90-110 at around 70 degree out side. and thats driving it alittle hard and stopping a lights. on the highway i see around 80-90 .
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 05:19 PM
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did you have alot of air in the system at the start?, how many times did you have to fill the surge tank?\

im wondering if that cap on the cx shouldnt be capped and should be run along with a T fitting with the stock air bleed
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 05:24 PM
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i only had to fill a few times and do some topping off. I left the cap in my cx after i let the air bleed out of it.
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 05:24 PM
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.040 restrictor in the bleed line and remember I mentioned to you that your plumbing will tell the story? Also did you not have a problem with the laminova tubes and the seals, and you were getting hardware store o rings and were advised to get viton seals? There is never enough time to do it right, but there is always time to do it over....
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 05:25 PM
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should the coolant level be above the air bleed in the surge tank>

mine isnt maybe thats an issue?
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 05:27 PM
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From: Philly
no no no!! ... just at the halfway line on the tank
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Rodimus_Prime
should the coolant level be above the air bleed in the surge tank>

mine isnt maybe thats an issue?
You should really check your pump man. I had a hunch about that from the first time you told me you had high IAT2s. If that is working, something is messed up. There is no reason they should be that high.

Originally Posted by Rodimus_Prime
I hooked the air bleed to the stock heat exchanger but capped off the one on the cx racing, if thats even what it is

Is this a problem? and no im not sure if the pumps working theres really not any way to tell
There is an easy way to tell... put a jumper on it and see if you hear is humming and the coolant bubbling. If it doesn't you gots no pump.

Last edited by BriantheLion26; Apr 26, 2008 at 05:42 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 05:49 PM
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Brian the Lion is 100%. Top left of the fuse box on my redline i cant remember where on a cobalt, jump it and the air should come spitting out of the bleed line...this deal is so f****d up drives me crazy...all that work and no results.

Guys plan it ahead , draw a plumbing diagram, get some advice, read the forum, get the right tools, get a drain pan; read up on it all the GM build book, the instructions for the stage kits are really good. Plan it and then execute. I feel sorry for Rodimus good guy doing his best but self inflicted wounds dont count, comeon!
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:13 PM
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anyone have a diagram of what to jump for this intercooler test?

the intercooler not working would not make sense though because ive had to top off the coolant 2x, if its not working it shouldnt have moved at all
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:30 PM
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From: Duncannon, PA
Originally Posted by Rodimus_Prime
anyone have a diagram of what to jump for this intercooler test?

the intercooler not working would not make sense though because ive had to top off the coolant 2x, if its not working it shouldnt have moved at all
Pull the fuse panel under the hood. The one labeled "aftercooler" is the pump. If you can read, you will find it. Can't miss it. Make sure you put the fuse back in how you took it out, I am not sure if it matters if it is upside down or not, just make sure its in the same way. Just use a piece of wire and jump it if you dont have a fuse, wont hurt anything. There is 4 holes in it. Jump it like this..

X _
_ X

Standing at the front, put the wire/jumper in the top left hole and bottom right. If its not toast, it will come right on. You can do the same for the fans for track days. I jump the fans 1 i believe. I would have to look to make sure. There is a fan 1 and fan 2 i believe. One runs them at 100% (holy ***** it blows a lot + kills battery), the other runs at like half speed. I ran the pump and fans at half speed for hours and my battery was always fine. PM or IM me if you have anymore questions.

Originally Posted by Rodimus_Prime
anyone have a diagram of what to jump for this intercooler test?

the intercooler not working would not make sense though because ive had to top off the coolant 2x, if its not working it shouldnt have moved at all
Also, if you had to top off the coolant twice you obviously didn't get all the air out of it. Just hot wire the pump (assuming it works) and let the bitch run for an hour. Look around and see if you are leaking anywhere. If the coolant gets low, fill her up.

I am assuming you didn't damage the laminova cores when you pulled all that crap apart? Everything was put back together right? Do you now realize why I didn't do the dual-pass yet... its a pain in the ass...

Originally Posted by qwikredline
Brian the Lion is 100%. Top left of the fuse box on my redline i cant remember where on a cobalt, jump it and the air should come spitting out of the bleed line...this deal is so f****d up drives me crazy...all that work and no results.

Guys plan it ahead , draw a plumbing diagram, get some advice, read the forum, get the right tools, get a drain pan; read up on it all the GM build book, the instructions for the stage kits are really good. Plan it and then execute. I feel sorry for Rodimus good guy doing his best but self inflicted wounds dont count, comeon!
You are right.. it is on the top left now that I think about it. I know the two I jump (pump and fans) one is by the red thing you jump people with (positive post i guess you call it) and the other is on the left near the top.

I did all the research I could possibly do for the cobra h/e and only one thing didnt work, it wouldn't bleed like blown 4-banger said his did. Big woop, hot wired the pump, grabbed a chair and sat there with a big cup of dex-cool and watched it bleed. It was tough I know...

NOTE - I just looked.. the aftercooler fuse is on the far left, looking at it from the front, 2nd one up. It is not near the top.

Last edited by BriantheLion26; Apr 26, 2008 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:41 PM
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Either im leaking and its not making a puddle or theres a TON of air in the system just took a 10 min drive beat the crap out of it till it got 130 degrees and the surge tank level dropped more, also the hoses dont feel like they have liquid in them, the cx racing intercooler is cool to the touch
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:46 PM
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Brian the lion to the rescue! owners manual plus turn the fuse box lid upside down. did you put a restrictor in the bleed line? did you damage the laminova cores? geez the plumbing i really did not want to do this.

I am guessing, (I dont run two h/e's) the plumbing goes from the out of the second h/e to the center hose of the 3 hose end plate... the two other hose ends (top and bottom of the end plate) go to a T. The single hose left from this T is connected to another T, one branch of this T goes to the reservoir, and one goes to water pump in. This is the hose end on the pump that is at 3 o'clock, parallel to the earth.

the hose end at 12 o clock in the pump goes in to the stock h/e. Now you have two h/e's. From the 12 oclock pump fitting go to the first h/e then go out of the first h/e in to the second h/e then out of the second h/e to the center position of the end plate... Dont forget the 1/8 pipe, 1/4 barb hose (with the .040 restrictor - tiny c hair hole) from the top of the stock h/e to top of the remote reservoir. Brian the lion are you with me?
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
Brian the lion to the rescue! owners manual plus turn the fuse box lid upside down. did you put a restrictor in the bleed line? did you damage the laminova cores? geez the plumbing i really did not want to do this.

I am guessing, (I dont run two h/e's) the plumbing goes from the out of the second h/e to the center hose of the 3 hose end plate... the two other hose ends (top and bottom of the end plate) go to a T. The single hose left from this T is connected to another T, one branch of this T goes to the reservoir, and one goes to water pump in. This is the hose end on the pump that is at 3 o'clock, parallel to the earth.

the hose end at 12 o clock in the pump goes in to the stock h/e. Now you have two h/e's. From the 12 oclock pump fitting go to the first h/e then go out of the first h/e in to the second h/e then out of the second h/e to the center position of the end plate... Dont forget the 1/8 pipe, 1/4 barb hose (with the .040 restrictor - tiny c hair hole) from the top of the stock h/e to top of the remote reservoir. Brian the lion are you with me?
You lost the **** out of me. I didn't do the dual-pass... I had money to do one or the other. I thought the cobra h/e looked bad ass sitting up front and I heard it netted the same results, if not more, over the dual-pass. I looked at the instructions for it and it seems you know what you are doing, it was a lot more complicated than just adding the cobra I will tell you that. He knows me, he will PM or IM me if he needs more help. Hell he only lives 30 min from me.
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:52 PM
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Eh, don't know don't use or need the dual pass so! That has been the experiences me and a couple others noticed with the dual pass!
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Rodimus_Prime
Either im leaking and its not making a puddle or theres a TON of air in the system just took a 10 min drive beat the crap out of it till it got 130 degrees and the surge tank level dropped more, also the hoses dont feel like they have liquid in them, the cx racing intercooler is cool to the touch
I thought I said this clearly... why beat the **** out of it when you don't know if your **** is hooked up to begin with? Hot wire the pump.. let it run for A WHILE.. and see how the coolant goes. You could be out there beating the **** out of it and your pump was toast the whole time. Hell your laminova cores could be what is leaking and its leaking internally. For 1, I would not be driving it, let alone hard, until I knew what was going on.

I had "little" air problems with mine. I didn't want to move the damn thing till I knew air was out of it. And even when I did drive it I had coolant sitting in a container in the back just in case. I checked that filler neck all the time.

Originally Posted by M-Dub
Eh, don't know don't use or need the dual pass so! That has been the experiences me and a couple others noticed with the dual pass!
You are obviously experienced in this area, what are the problems with going to a dual pass. Longevity of the pump? Change in velocity? Would you agree that a cobra/huge ass cx racing H/E is atleast as good as doing the dual-pass alone if not better?

Last edited by BriantheLion26; Apr 26, 2008 at 06:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:58 PM
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at 110 IAT its not hurting anything, I flipped the cores in like 30 seconds, i dont see how anything could have gotten damaged, ive gone over the diagrams about 30 times its what its supposed to be

If the pump wasnt working why is the coolant level going down in the surge tank? Theres no puddles under it, and for the amount of coolant that I put in there would have to be a LARGE puddle
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Rodimus_Prime
at 110 IAT its not hurting anything, I flipped the cores in like 30 seconds, i dont see how anything could have gotten damaged, ive gone over the diagrams about 30 times its what its supposed to be
If you say its good, I believe you. Did you check to see if the pump even works? You will hear it whine with the car off. You can't miss the damn thing. If it is, do what we said, just wire up the pump and leave all the caps on, it should pressurize a little bit. If there is air in there, it will come out. Especially with all the bleeder crap you got on there. Mine doesn't have a bleeder and it is "supposed" to be hard to bleed it. I didn't seem to have any trouble..

Originally Posted by Rodimus_Prime
at 110 IAT its not hurting anything, I flipped the cores in like 30 seconds, i dont see how anything could have gotten damaged, ive gone over the diagrams about 30 times its what its supposed to be

If the pump wasnt working why is the coolant level going down in the surge tank? Theres no puddles under it, and for the amount of coolant that I put in there would have to be a LARGE puddle
They say that H/E holds a butt load of coolant plus you got an extra tank now. How much did you put in it? With you pulling the cores and all that out you probably lost just about every ounce of fluid in there. I hope you put a bunch in there. With all that apart im sure it will take a little bit to get all the air out.

Last edited by BriantheLion26; Apr 26, 2008 at 07:01 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 07:03 PM
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Actually I don't feel the CX is good for the pump either! Myself I run a Cobra H/E and Meth. THe cars I have seen use the dual pass the gain is minimal at best! An H/E is a much better option!
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by M-Dub
Actually I don't feel the CX is good for the pump either! Myself I run a Cobra H/E and Meth. THe cars I have seen use the dual pass the gain is minimal at best! An H/E is a much better option!
Thats what I figured. I told him that. Adding that much coolant on the pump Im sure isn't good at the minimum. I have what you have, minus the Meth of course. I did 2nd and 3rd gear pulls and watched my IAT2s with a scanner (me no gots aeroforce) and I just wanted to make sure it didn't spike at all. If it did, then I knew I had air. I have never had a problem since I put the cobra on. Well.. I did have lower IAT2s.. but I guess that is good right..
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 07:07 PM
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Yes... a lower IAT2 is a good thing! It should have been a pretty substantial drop though!

I haven't scanned mine since the H/E but I know the meth lowered mine about 35* give or take!
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 07:10 PM
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From: Duncannon, PA
Originally Posted by M-Dub
Yes... a lower IAT2 is a good thing! It should have been a pretty substantial drop though!

I haven't scanned mine since the H/E but I know the meth lowered mine about 35* give or take!
I forgot to scan it before..

But I am sure the drop was there!
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