I cant check much right now im at work till 9, your right there was not one drop of coolant left in the system because pretty much everything had to come off, so far ive gone through one container of prestone and a little bit of a second, I wouldnt be surprised if its just a **** load of air in the lines, and if its as much as I think this could take days

 

running the HE pump with ignition off.
Cobalt
Jumper the 30 and 87 terminals

 

the dual pass does just fine, and the large self bleeding remote reservoir is a self evident plus. Frankly, if you really want to know, running two pumps would be a useful experiment. MAYBE there is a restriction using two h/e's Rodimus Prime's way. I havent tried it.

and you might want to measure the capacity of the second h/e you are using. When doing things of this nature its useful to measure the amount of coolant you need so you dont guess where it all goes when you fill it up!

I run a single pass (four hose ends two each side) laminova, stock pump, and a remote reservoir along with a 1 inch thick core griffin h/e with 1.5 inch tanks in the stock core area and location. I am pleased with the results. the car does not slow down, goes great!

Some of the exhaustive testing i did a long time ago with some really smart GM engineers showed that a Ron Davis radiator for the motor was no better than a stock radiator; a ron davis big h/e was not as good as a larger Griffin h/e, and the larger Griffin h/e was significantly better than a stock h/e.


Also we did not use radiator cooling fans for racing. my next move is to go to a single aftermarket cooling fan (Ron Davis, who make fine radiators, sell them) this is to save weight. I dont want to spend money changing a stock motor,other than stage 2 or 3 and tunes, but I want to go fast, so saving wt is a big one for me...

Also removing the chin spoiler royally screwed up the overall cooling of the car.

Time attack Cobalt ran dual pass, griffin h/e plus cams high helix blower and nitrous...399 hp...it didnt slow down either

Ralliartist runs cr racing h/e and i believe meth...his car goes fast! I dont know how long meth would last on the street...this week in the city i was down to 26 mpg ... maybe some of you can tell me how long meth lasts in typical driving, i will get a meth kit later this week and will try it....

 

X2. Said it about 3 times now.

 

My H/E pump comes on the minute I turn my car on!

The dual pass is worthless... enough said!

 

I dont understand that diagram, so Brian what you up to tonight? LOLZ

 

I am watching Hitman right now and it is ******* awesome. I work tomorrow moring 6am to 10am, I am not going anywhere.

Here is what I would do. Get a piece of wire, doesn't matter what gauge. Strip the ends off about an inch or so. Pull the "aftercooler" fuse in the fuse panel. Push the wire in the top left and bottom right hole. Bam, pump kicks on. Don't need the key on, nothing, it will run, providing yours isn't nuked.

1. If you do not hear it / see the filler neck bubbling a little bit, its nuked, get a new one.

2. If you do hear it and it is running, see if you can tell the water is moving the way it should. Also let it run, at least an hour. Watch the coolant tank and filler neck. Keep adding coolant when you need to.

If you seriously want me to take pictures of how to get it hot wired to stay on let me know, I can go take some. I got my laptop beside me watching Hitman. Let me know.

 

I dont have a filler neck , yea if you can send some that would be awesome I dont know that I'm going to get anything done in the pouring rain though

 

you have the remote reservoir right? sit and watch the air and coolant bubble out of that hose (1/4 id) into the remote reservoir when the pump runs. its a relay not a fuse btw...grey box with 4 pins...jump the wire kitty corner....really gotta learn to read the diagrams...you do have an owners manual...not making fun just asking the question...good luck it sure should not be this difficult...

 

Give me 10 min. Check back in a little bit

Ask and you shall receive. Uploading now.









NOTE - I said top left with lower right earlier, that is incorrect. Jump Lower left with upper right. I thought my pump was dead for a second..

Doesn't that SS/TC grill look sexy.

 

This is where you're wrong.

Dual-pass may or may not lower intake temperatures on a given run more than stock, but the biggest reason for it is to PREVENT HEATSOAK THAT COMES FROM BACK TO BACK RUNS. WOT on say a Stage II with no cooling mods for 3-4 runs will result in lost power after every run. With a dual-pass you will not see hardly ANY power loss in the same 3-4 runs.

Gentlemen, if you check everything, if you have no leaks, air bleed lines.. whole 9 yards, there should be no problem running this setup.

To the OP, you have a second heat exchanger. You also have a new surge tank. You also probably lost most if not all of your coolant during the install of the dual-pass w/ Option B. So you probably started with an empty stock intercooler, empty hoses, empty additional h/e. You will go through quite a bit of new coolant filling all these components. IF, and I mean IF, you are not leaking anything onto the ground, then the only place the new fluid can go is into the hoses and h/e's, or into the intake manifold after a faulty install.

I would check the intercooler pump first. Make sure it's working. If you still have to keep refilling the tank after much longer, and are still not noticing any puddles underneath the car or any wet hoses from a leak, then you may need to look into how you put the laminova coils back into the intake manifold. It may not have sealed right and you may be running it through your engine.

 

brian the lion great pictures! Tennpenn great advice...filling the motor with coolant through leaking laminova is a really bad dream in technicolor! Yikes....I am scared for Rodimus...

 

question, i have the dual pass with option b installed on my car, the first 2 days i had water coming out the bleeder line to the reservoir but now i dont, btw the pump is working, is this normal?

 

Wow... deja vu.. Thought I just saw this question in another thread..

LOL...

You knew it was only a matter of time before I responded to another dual-pass thread... lol

 

yes is the same

 

Um... okies there buddy!

 

LOL

 

Again I dont see how the lamova part could have got screwed up, id almost rather blow it up than take off that ******* intake manifold again, god that was a bitch

 

I hope to god you get like 20-30 degrees lower IAT2s for all that work for the dual-pass. Im sorry, but if you don't I'm gonna laugh my ass off. That is exactly why I didn't do it. Plus cost, i didn't want to spend 300 on something that I was going to bitch and moan about for 3 hours.

 

if i was running coolant through the motor wouldnt it be running poorly?

 

It could have been as simple as an O ring falling off one of the coils during the re-install. If that one O ring, on the other side of the hole, falls off, there won't be any seal. Where else does the fluid have to go? It's just going to empty itself into the intake manifold where it will fly directly into your engine.

It doesn't take much. Keep checking it and checking it. How much total fluid have you put in there already?

 

Again, it's not about lower IAT2's, it's about eliminating the heatsoak from back to back WOT runs.

Mine has been up and running for about 2 months now. One install, took my time, and did it right. Have had abosolutely ZERO problems since install. No leaks, no mysterious loss of fluid, nothing.

 

I get what your saying. If you let the car cool enough I don't think you really "need" the dual-pass. When i had mine at the track i would run and let it cool atleast 30 minutes. While it was cooling I had my fans on, IC pump running, and ice on top of the blower. For 300 bucks I don't think the dual-pass is worth it.

 

The dual pass, won't get more than 5-10* difference the full stage 3 car we have here locally was actually higher IAT2* with DPoption B than I was with nothing!

 

take the supercharger off 10 mins...you dont have to remove the alternator, for the laminova use the right tools, and take the two lower studs out with a torx socket i think it s a 5 (after u have loosened off the bolts) tighte ning torque sequence is in the install instructions 16 ft lbs to tighten the superhcarger and 22 for the manifold. the lower bolt is a bitch my car ran for 20 k miles with the lower bolt out....to install long ratchet driver short 15mm socket dum dum in the socket to hold the bolt...use a 1.4 drive to start it and then 3/8 to final tight...on the install.. etc. you gotta get the laminova tubes right and if you have hurt them cuase you didnot know better so sad too bad do it over and be happy....