I was running high 12's with a heavier car and 105mph (RWD). You got a plenty quick car with that MPH, just suffering what the rest of us are. Stupid FWD sucks for drag racing (and all of us non limited slip people). The weight lifts up off the front (where we need it) and goes to the rear. Keep practicing and get some tires. You'll get into the 13's.

EDIT: I thought I would add some little tips I've picked up from drag racing over the years.
-R/T has nothing to do with your 1/4 time. You can sit at the start all day and then take off. As soon as you trip the lbeam it'll start counting.

-Now the beam. If you want to get the best time you want to shallow stage your car. Basically pull up to the line really slow. As soon as you trip the first staging light STOP. Creep VERY VERY slowly just until the second light lights up. Stop the car immedietly. This will put you as far back as you can be and give you an extra couple inches before you trip the beam. Next time you're at the track you'll see the really fast cars doing it just like this. It's not a whole lot but every little bit helps.

-Tire pressure. A lot of people always say lower the driving tire pressures to hook up better. We don't have wrinkle walls or tires designed for this so it doesn't work like you would think. Think of it this way. Underinflated tires wear more on the outsides. The reason being that the tire bows in the middle and what you're actually doing is putting less of your tire on the ground. That means less traction. The best way to determine tire pressure is to do some burnouts. It's an old school method that works very well. If the mark is lighter in the middle you have too little air. If it's lighter on the sides you have too much air. You're aiming for the most uniform color throughout. Too little air in the tires can also effect the top end of the run by causing rolling resistance and slowing you down. On a side note don't burnout at the track either. Street tires just get greasy and you will probably run slower. Pump up the rear tires more though as it'll offer you less rolling resistance out back.

-If you have a spot at the track to put your stuff it's really better to lose the spare and jack crap. 1/4 tank of gas is going to definitly lighten things up. No passengers. Roughly 100lbs= 1/10th of a second. That's also roughly equilivent to 10whp. Not bad!

-Correction factor. Ask your track officials if the timeslips are corrected for weather/elevation. If not correct them!

-Another very important thing is learn the car. I've seen so many people with cars capable of times that they aren't even close to running. Then next time they go to the track they have more mods on the car and they go a little faster, but now even further away from their times they should be hitting. They're not maxing out their combos by driving it wrong and never going to be going fast. Look at it this way, I know of someone with a bolt on fox body mustang. It has the basic headers, h pipe, cat back, cold air intake, and a set of 3.55's. I forget if he has a cobra intake manifold or not (they aren't nearly the best anyway). Some suspension crap and sticky tires. I see people with similar setups all the time running in the 14's. He had this combo for nearly 5 years and runs consistant 13.2's @102mph. That's because he learned his car.

This should get you started. Good luck and report back whenever you go to the track.

 

Well the reason I want to lower the tire pressure a little is to lesson wheel hop. I would NEVER burn out with a set of street tires, it is a good waste of rubber. I didn't know about the tree trick but that is pretty much what I do. Ever since I was a little kid that is how I was thought by my dad and how I saw it done. The times are not corrected and I am not sure how to do that. The elevation here is at about 3000 ft above sea level. Thanks for the info. +rep

 

Well you'll be pleasantly supprised that a 14.3 @ 3000 above sea level translates to a 13.7. Too bad your track doesn't correct them for ya so you actually have that on the slip. Correcting is really the only fair way since someone running at somewhere like atco which is sea level will be running a lot faster then you would that high up.

 

How do you figure the correction?

 

Here's a link to the NHRA correction factor. Correction for elevation Your mph would also jump up to about 105 too.

 

I don't know if I am doing it right but I am getting 13.6 at 106

 

That's right. Just multiply your time/mph by the #'s next to your elevation. I was just rounding up going by 14.2X 0.9640 and getting 13.688. Since you have your exact time and mph down to the 1/10 or 1/100 you will be getting more accurate results.

If you're being lazy here's an easier one that all you have to do is enter old time/elevation above sea level to get your answer. I did yours and it came up 13.6 on there Lazy calculator 4th one from the top.

 

Wow I just didn't expect that big of a diffrence.I don't feel so bad about a 13.5, and I know the car has more in it. If I can get those 60' times down to a 2.0 I think I would be down to at least a 13.3. I am looking really hard at getting some 16" wheels and drag radials.