porting blower and tb
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
as long as you take a few tiny steps for preventive maintenance, (have the rotors coated) aside from that the only thing that a 2.5 would adversly affect is the coupler, which can be replaced with a ceramic one and your good to go.
i know you werent saying replace it with anything, i was just giving you **** lol
as far as a swirl polish goes, instead of leaving the housing glass smooth, we did it in a helix design to help "swirl" the air and help it move faster.... sounds weird but it works....
i know you werent saying replace it with anything, i was just giving you **** lol
as far as a swirl polish goes, instead of leaving the housing glass smooth, we did it in a helix design to help "swirl" the air and help it move faster.... sounds weird but it works....
sure..... if thats case get some better bearings while your at it.....
as far as the coating goes, there is a company out of cali that made a coating that is actually more slick than oil (believe it or not i dont care, ive seen it and ive played with it) and the thickness of this stuff is less than a micrometer. its awesome. also the stock coupler in the m62 is sloppy with a little play brand new. so if you upgrade the coupler to one with minimal play and then get this coating, rotor to rotor contact should be non existent.
as far as the 2.8 comment goes i agree. my last dyno showed over XXX to the wheels with a conservative tune and im on a 2.9. no i cant post dyno sheets cause i dont have a scanner but im working on it so please dont ask.
Not really .... coating the rotors will not stop rotor to rotor contact when you over rev the blower. Not to mention the rotors of the M62 already have an abratable coating. There was testing done by GM Racing before they released the GM Stage 3 kit that found evidence of rotor to rotor contact with a 73 mm (2.87") pulley. Imagine what a 2.5" pulley will do over time. Not to mention the extreme internal blower temps that will also be a result of such a small pulley. IMO, if you build the motor, and get a good tune, you shouldnt really need to go below a 2.8" pulley to make decent power with the M62. I feel a safe reliable setup is 100 times better than a ***** to the wall setup that will end up causing issues in a short period of time.
as far as the coating goes, there is a company out of cali that made a coating that is actually more slick than oil (believe it or not i dont care, ive seen it and ive played with it) and the thickness of this stuff is less than a micrometer. its awesome. also the stock coupler in the m62 is sloppy with a little play brand new. so if you upgrade the coupler to one with minimal play and then get this coating, rotor to rotor contact should be non existent.
as far as the 2.8 comment goes i agree. my last dyno showed over XXX to the wheels with a conservative tune and im on a 2.9. no i cant post dyno sheets cause i dont have a scanner but im working on it so please dont ask.
Last edited by SS Pyro IV; Aug 18, 2010 at 10:45 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
sure..... if thats case get some better bearings while your at it.....
as far as the coating goes, there is a company out of cali that made a coating that is actually more slick than oil (believe it or not i dont care, ive seen it and ive played with it) and the thickness of this stuff is less than a micrometer. its awesome. also the stock coupler in the m62 is sloppy with a little play brand new. so if you upgrade the coupler to one with minimal play and then get this coating, rotor to rotor contact should be non existent.
as far as the 2.8 comment goes i agree. my last dyno showed over XXX to the wheels with a conservative tune and im on a 2.9. no i cant post dyno sheets cause i dont have a scanner but im working on it so please dont ask.
as far as the coating goes, there is a company out of cali that made a coating that is actually more slick than oil (believe it or not i dont care, ive seen it and ive played with it) and the thickness of this stuff is less than a micrometer. its awesome. also the stock coupler in the m62 is sloppy with a little play brand new. so if you upgrade the coupler to one with minimal play and then get this coating, rotor to rotor contact should be non existent.
as far as the 2.8 comment goes i agree. my last dyno showed over XXX to the wheels with a conservative tune and im on a 2.9. no i cant post dyno sheets cause i dont have a scanner but im working on it so please dont ask.
Thread Starter
Joined: 09-29-06
Posts: 20,664
Likes: 217
From: Land of Freedom
Might stay with my 2.7 after we port that and the throttle body for a bit. Idk yet. Next is clutch for sure then fully ported and built head And nbs go in. Then it'll either be twincharge or sleeves and pistons. We will see
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
The abratable coating is for maintaining tolerances between the rotors and housing. Its not meant to be smooth/slick like the coating you mentioned. Removing it, or replacing it with an incorrect coating will only decrease the overall efficiency of the blower.
Theres more to being efficient than running cooler than stock.
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
here it what my rotors look like after 30k miles 20k with a 2.9 pulley or smaller on it i ran a 2.7 for about 4k miles and lots of meth



imo you should just save up for a turbo get rid of the crappy m62



imo you should just save up for a turbo get rid of the crappy m62
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
that is how it looks now sitting in my basement it worked fine when it was on but i was thinking i might have been losing some boost due to alot of the coating not being there
and i am not sure if it from the meth but i have always ran 70% or more meth on a 7gph nozzle with a 200psi pump so it is really over 8gph
and i am not sure if it from the meth but i have always ran 70% or more meth on a 7gph nozzle with a 200psi pump so it is really over 8gph
You dont ....
The abratable coating is for maintaining tolerances between the rotors and housing. Its not meant to be smooth/slick like the coating you mentioned. Removing it, or replacing it with an incorrect coating will only decrease the overall efficiency of the blower.
Theres more to being efficient than running cooler than stock.
The abratable coating is for maintaining tolerances between the rotors and housing. Its not meant to be smooth/slick like the coating you mentioned. Removing it, or replacing it with an incorrect coating will only decrease the overall efficiency of the blower.
Theres more to being efficient than running cooler than stock.
im just saying, i got curious, i did it, and i guess witchcraft makes it work for my car and i like it. if it blows up because of it ill let you know that you were right and ill go buy a tvs....
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
well how about we agree to disagree. you can go play with the coating on your hybrid and ill keep playing with my "inefficient" coated m62...
im just saying, i got curious, i did it, and i guess witchcraft makes it work for my car and i like it. if it blows up because of it ill let you know that you were right and ill go buy a tvs....
im just saying, i got curious, i did it, and i guess witchcraft makes it work for my car and i like it. if it blows up because of it ill let you know that you were right and ill go buy a tvs....
Everything I've said thus far is true, and has been proven through real world testing. I highly doubt your coating is better than Eatons abratable coating (which is used for tolerances, not cooling). You are not going to see cooling benefits from using a different type of coating on the rotors, sorry.
I by no means said not having the abratable coating on rotors will cause your car to blow up. I said it will cause the unit to become less efficient at what it does.
No need to be a smartass. Please elaborate on how your car runs cooler from this super slick coating you had placed on the rotors. Do you have any logs to prove this? What is the actual name of this coating?
Everything I've said thus far is true, and has been proven through real world testing. I highly doubt your coating is better than Eatons abratable coating (which is used for tolerances, not cooling). You are not going to see cooling benefits from using a different type of coating on the rotors, sorry.
I by no means said not having the abratable coating on rotors will cause your car to blow up. I said it will cause the unit to become less efficient at what it does.
Everything I've said thus far is true, and has been proven through real world testing. I highly doubt your coating is better than Eatons abratable coating (which is used for tolerances, not cooling). You are not going to see cooling benefits from using a different type of coating on the rotors, sorry.
I by no means said not having the abratable coating on rotors will cause your car to blow up. I said it will cause the unit to become less efficient at what it does.
sorry, smartassery is kind of a habit from what i do for work. lol
all bullshit aside, your right. less clearances in the rotors causes a loss in efficiency, i get that. but when we had them coated, the clearances matched up perfectly. dont ask me how, we shipped them off to a friend of a friend in cali and got them back a few weeks later and tested them out to a likable result.
its a weird name ill have to look at my books when i get home, i can never remember it.
it may not be as good as the eatons but its doing its job on my car and i like the results.
the cars been running for a few months now, with multiple hard runs and multi hundred mile trips with 0 issues and the rotors look like we just got them back yesterday. and i didnt say that having the rotors coated helped with my cooling, i said the porting did. not alot but it did help. i was saying that if you had your rotors coated than a 2.5 could be made to be reliable. well as reliable as a 2.5 can be.
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
sorry, smartassery is kind of a habit from what i do for work. lol
all bullshit aside, your right. less clearances in the rotors causes a loss in efficiency, i get that. but when we had them coated, the clearances matched up perfectly. dont ask me how, we shipped them off to a friend of a friend in cali and got them back a few weeks later and tested them out to a likable result.
its a weird name ill have to look at my books when i get home, i can never remember it.
it may not be as good as the eatons but its doing its job on my car and i like the results.
the cars been running for a few months now, with multiple hard runs and multi hundred mile trips with 0 issues and the rotors look like we just got them back yesterday. and i didnt say that having the rotors coated helped with my cooling, i said the porting did. not alot but it did help. i was saying that if you had your rotors coated than a 2.5 could be made to be reliable. well as reliable as a 2.5 can be.
all bullshit aside, your right. less clearances in the rotors causes a loss in efficiency, i get that. but when we had them coated, the clearances matched up perfectly. dont ask me how, we shipped them off to a friend of a friend in cali and got them back a few weeks later and tested them out to a likable result.
its a weird name ill have to look at my books when i get home, i can never remember it.
it may not be as good as the eatons but its doing its job on my car and i like the results.
the cars been running for a few months now, with multiple hard runs and multi hundred mile trips with 0 issues and the rotors look like we just got them back yesterday. and i didnt say that having the rotors coated helped with my cooling, i said the porting did. not alot but it did help. i was saying that if you had your rotors coated than a 2.5 could be made to be reliable. well as reliable as a 2.5 can be.



