2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Pre stage 2 install Jitters

Old Jul 11, 2007 | 01:45 PM
  #51  
Richiet03's Avatar
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From: Long Island, NY
Originally Posted by InfinityzeN
With the stage 2 tune and injectors you can run down to a 2.9" pulley and be safe.

Richiet03, for traction/Supporting mods there are a few different ways to go.
Cornering Hard: Strut Tower Bar, Rear Sway Bar, Springs, Struts, Coil-overs, Tires
Launching Hard: Torque Dampaner, Motor Mount, Transmission Mounts, Control Arm Bushing, Axles, Clutch
Stopping Hard: Slotted Rotors, Upgraded Break Pads, Steel Brake Lines, Tires
Accelerating Hard: Pulley, Injectors, Tune, Exhaust, Heat Exchanger, Dual Pass Mod
speaking of break pads what the hell can i do about the stupid break dust that gets allllll over my front 2 tires, i heard there r special break pads but there not as good at stoping idk. i wana do them this weekend. is a heat exchanger like a inter cooler???
would me instaling an intake myself mess with any warranty stuff??
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:08 PM
  #52  
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From: Harker Heights, TX
Relax man. Your in NY, there are lots of other members in your area. Get on the regional forum and look for people close by who can actually help you physically do the installs and such.

The pads that your looking for to not get the dust are any of the high performance ceramic ones. They actually stop good really good too. Their drawback is they will wear the rotors faster than stock pads. But if you go with some of the high performance slotted rotors then you should be fine. Uneek sells good rotors at a cheap price. Hawk and EBC make good pads.

You already have a heat exchanger in your car. It is the part of the aftercooler (what the SS/SC has, though everyone calls it an intercooler) that radiates heat out. It is sandwiched in with the car and ac radiator. You can add a second one inline with the first mounted lower.

Installing any mod will only remove the warranty for the part it replaces and any damage it specifically causes. Doesn't matter if you or a dealership installs it. Stage 2 is of course different from this since it is a warrantied factory upgrade. An intake is not. If you want a stock look, go with an AEM like I did.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:19 PM
  #53  
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From: Norcal east bay area
Slotted and drilled rotors are not needed on the street, but people see them and know right away the car is lightning fast if they have em on and they look so pretty..... Ill stop faster in a shorter distance with my stock rotors on the street than the other guy with drilled ones (and me and a buddy have done a braking duel) as he has 20% less rotor area for the pads to grip on and stop it UNLESS im on the track constantly braking in racing conditions then drilled/slotted will help dissapate heat. Spend your money elsewhere.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:22 PM
  #54  
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From: Alberta / NFLD
Originally Posted by sscobaltscZ06
Slotted and drilled rotors are not needed on the street, but people see them and know right away the car is lightning fast if they have em on. Spend your money elsewhere.
they do look sweet though.......
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 03:04 PM
  #55  
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From: Harker Heights, TX
Drilled are crap, even on the track. Slotted is far better. If your going to buy something other than solid, get just slotted.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 03:17 PM
  #56  
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From: Texas boy stuck in an Iowa Cornfield
When I replaced my brakes I needed new rotors and bought the drilled and slotted from CED. I can't really feel any difference but they sure do look nice.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 05:41 PM
  #57  
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From: GA
mods to come

hey just wanted to chime in.

i have a 2.79 pulley and my baby is still running very strong.

for traction mods i have the trans mounts from ZZP and JBP Cab's. i regret both.

the trans mounts casue vibes. and the cabs from JBP are ****. there is a thread that some showed their cabs just crumbling.

SS33 did the Bwoody traction bars and i wish i could have just started there.

the traction bars take a bit more confidence in your mod skills but SS33 has absolutly no wheel hop. he had the ingalls and the trans mounts and the cabs and when we were at the track he still had a touch of hop.

i had less as the ZZP munts are very stiff. i can still get a bounce here and there.


start with the traction bars and if you want do the cab's from intense at the same time and all your wheel hop will be gone.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 12:59 AM
  #58  
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From: Harker Heights, TX
I would actually suggest the TTR motor mount, TTR or Intense trans mounts, Intense cabs, and some decent god damn tires.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 11:32 AM
  #59  
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From: Long Island, NY
Originally Posted by InfinityzeN
Only 100mph in 3rd? 3rd tops at at around 112mph man! You need to go back out on the road and rip that **** all the way through.

Now just wait until you add an intake to that sucker so it screams, an exhaust to it so it growls, and some traction mods so you can whip it through the twisties. Instant grin.

ur right 112 in 3rd b4 the fuel cut off.

i need to do somthing about the suspension and wheel hop tho. it has so much power but its not getiin all of it out to the wheels. i think the ingalls will help, anyone seen them for cheap anywhere??
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 12:23 PM
  #60  
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From: jersey
Originally Posted by Richiet03
ur right 112 in 3rd b4 the fuel cut off.

i need to do somthing about the suspension and wheel hop tho. it has so much power but its not getiin all of it out to the wheels. i think the ingalls will help, anyone seen them for cheap anywhere??
so what mods you have just stage 2? to help with wheel hop i have engine damnpner, tranny mouunts, and traction bar, pretty easy stuff to install, and really helps with wheel hop there is very minimum if any at all.
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