whats the best way to get this pump to fit back in? do you have to grind anything or just use straps?

 

Slight dremel and new quick connects for +/-

 

Do you have to drop the tank to get to the pump and do you have to retune for this

 

Tank will need to be dropped, easy though.

Just changing a fuel pump won't affect anything unless you were tuning around a bad pump to begin with.

 

i was tuned on a bad pump so i gotta get retuned, but im prob gonna switch to turbo in the next couple of weeks so ill wait to get tuned. but i ended up using a dremel around the top part where the connection for the pump sits through, i just shaved off abit and it fit like a champ

 

I know this is an old posting, but I decided to post my experience with this pump.
On an 05 fuel pump canister you have to do a lot of grinding to get the pump to fit into the same hole and replace the electrical connector to the pump. For some reason after doing this the venturi pump wasn't filling the canister and at 1/4 tank or less the car would spit and spudder at WOT.
With an 07 fuel pump canister, I had to grind the hole where the electrical connector goes thru due to the fact the Walbro's was a little wider and wouldn't fit thru, also because the Walbro pump is about 3/8" or so taller than the stock pump, the top and bottom half of the canister won't snap back together. I ended up dropping it in the tank as is and hope that it doesn't shift around in the tank and come apart.

 

The walbro pump flows less than stock pump dose

 

It does??? The Airtek fuel pump which is suppose to be an OE replacement in the 07, is only rated between 50 and 60 gph; the Walbro is a 255lph pump which equates to 67 gph. Granted not a huge differnce, but if you're running E85 or E98 at high HP levels it'll probably make a difference.

 

I forgot to add that I also noticed my rail pressure going up with the Walbro pump, from about 58PSI with the stock pump to 64PSI with the Walbro.
Just a little geewhiz info; based on the math in Greg Banish's book, a 255lph fuel pump would be enough to run a Cobalt up to 640HP with 100# injectors at 80% IDC.

 

Never liked the walbro had to many fail.
I just went with a AEM 340lph its only 99$ and requires little to no mod to install. Just had to cut the stock fuel hose and use the one supplied with the pump. It even plugs right in to the stock harness

 

You certainly have a point there, there's a lot of Chinese made counterfeits out there with a high failure rate, so much so that ZZP won't sale them. There's even a youtube video I saw on how to tell the difference between a fake Walbro pump and a real one.

 

Tjolley, I'm curious, what year is your car, because looking at the specs on AEM's web-site the AEM pump and Walbro pump are the same length, which means I wouldn't be able to snap my canister closed with it either. You said you replaced a hose, I assume you're referring to the one that attaches to the fuel pump and you're not using the stock hose that attaches with a grommet; if that's the case the new hose doesn't get kinked when you install the assembly back in the tank and compress it down?

 

2007

 

This is not the case. I am fighting an issue with my setup right now where my pump is quitting on me well before I run out of injector in the 430-470whp range, this is on E85. Where as your Banish calculations are probably on gas/petrol.

I am going with the Tjolley AEM 50-1000 pump.

 

Ya wen i saw the aem pump and the dementions were almost exactly the same as our stock pump. I called AEM and ask them about the pump because I did not see that it was rated for e85. They told me it has a billet anodized impeller and sealed bearings so it should handle it. Now I'm hearing that they actually have one rated for e85. I will be switching to the new or 1 when mine goes out.

 

yeah i just wrote that post above you before I found the e85 one on ebay. the model number is 50-1200