Can someone with the PSI-FI kit share exactly what the piggy back splices into ?

 

PCM-C1.... Pin13 Pink/Black

PCM-C2.... Pin37 Grey <---- This wire gets cut and wires soldered into each side
Pin40 Brown/White... Pin46 Purple/White.... Pin51 Tan.... Pin73 Black/White

Pin 37 is the MAF wire I think... Dont know about the rest

 

37 is the MAP sensor.

You didn't mess with #41 (yellow) the MAF sensor signal at all ? Some of those connections make sense and some don't.

 

 

Pin 13 can be for monitoring RPM. It provides 12 volts and would show a draw when the IC signal (Pin40) is triggered.
Chances are it's the power source of choice for the controler. I personally dont like it as the Power because of the current changes that it sees from the coils going off all the time, but it works.

Pin 37 is obvious in that it provides the PCM with a corrected MAP signal to control fuel and timing.

Pin 40 is a 0-5v square wave that is used for PPM input, but could also be used to control timing.
It's not however because it would also require the use of IC2, IC 3 and IC 4 to control timing on every cylinder. Though it may run batch fire under load in which case the IC 1 signal could be a trigger for the others at the same time, but I highly doubt that!

Pin 46 is probably either a feedback to the piggyback or even an open loop mode trigger for the PCM.

Pin 51 is obvious in that it controls the IAT signal to the PCM to control fuel and timing much like the MAP signal does.

Pin 73 is just the ground the piggyback unit plugs into.

Any questions?


Sorry to PSI-FI. I'm not trying to undemind anything you have done and in fact I was going to release my E-manage Ultimate install later this week that includes most of the same connections. It just adds direct timing control of the system by way of the IC trigger lines and a few other features. Bottom line is that they still have a tuned set-up and anyone who thinks they can just get an e-manage to do what PSI-FI does will probably spend more than just a few hours on a dyno. It's still less expensive to go the PSI-FI route.

 

Pin 13 is for just power to their unit, it's just 12 VDC when the ignition is on I know that for sure, the RPM comes off the IC1 which I am using for my piggy back.

I don't think they are using IC1 to control ignition since there are acutally 4 IC channels to each coil. I think thats just for the RPMs.

I think the Heated O2 is to make sure it doesn't go to lean?

IAT has got me too I dunno why they need to see that variable....

According to ExHondaMAN the only splice is the MAP signal. I have been messing with just the MAF signal at this point maybe I am barking up the wrong tree...

 

The pins I posted are directly off the install instructions....

 

Yeah all the work is into the maps used to get the power and not the hooking it into the PCM.

 

have a psi-fi kit on the way. wondering if i should get bigger injectors? what size? Help.

 

I would wait, word on the street is the GM staged kits will have injectors as part of the kit. I would wait just to see what they are putting in the kit.

 

thanks



MOD MONEY
red ss sc \ lsd-recaros - axis mods 18"
soon to be psi fi+kn typhoon+ scdyne headers
still waiting on magnaflow cat back

 

just finished installing psi fi kit . right now it runs crappy, it stalls, cut off once, idles rough. I hope it starts running right soon cause I did feel great power. ANYONE THAT CAN GIVE SOME ADVISE WOULD BE VERY HELPFUL... ITS DEFINITELY GOT TO BE SOMETHING TO DO WITH FUEL DELIVERY.
OH ALSO BOOST GAUGE WAS GOING HAYWIRE, BACK AND FORTH. I'M TO DRIVE AROUND SOME MORE be back in an hour..

 

Mine ran crappy at first to... Really bad dead spot in the middle RPM range... but after about 50 miles it evened out.... Recheck your wiring... Make sure you have the connector pins and wire colors correct... check all your vacuum lines....

 

re- checked wiring and had a mistake , fixed it still trying to figure out the exact places to cap off on the boost sileniod or do I hook them up the way they were. The check engine
light comes on . So I pull the battery connection does that mess with the pre- tunes-maybe make it start over or have I completely messed up my kit or ecu. anyway chk. engine ligth keeps coming back. I checked all other wire connections and they are right.




the directions werent that great......... the car runs great now.

 

Just wondering how hard and around how long this install should take and what tools ill need....... pulley puller and solder gun?

 

dimeo09 Just wondering how hard and around how long this install should take and what tools ill need....... pulley puller and solder gun?

you'll need your basic hex and star metric pieces ,18 gauge soulder , a gun, the factory pulley removal is a bitch , Ihad someone with experiance help me -we ended up drilling two holes, to the left and right of the center shaft on the pulley and putting something in there to help pull against while we use an air ratchet gun on the puller.
the dub interchangeable pulley was easy. soldering- dont follow the picture direction, follow the pin hole numbers on the wiring harness. also regap sparkplugs. I didnt take my sc all the way off, left some of the hoses hooked up, just made room for the pulley puller
it took me all weekend I have access to a shop. and Im not that good- had it wired wrong first but now its runnin and screamin harder than ever

 

MOD MONEY... Are you still having problems with your PsiFi Kit ? Did you get the wiring all straightened out ? Also on the SS I dont think you can clear the PCM codes by just disconnecting the battery... You need to take it and have them erased... Heres a pic of where to plug the bypass valve line... Disconnect the line pointed out in the pic and plug the end of the line with a screw or something suitable.

 

exhonda man got wires in check no more check engien light. thanks for the pic is that how the lines are originally? or different from default

 

OH! I see now thanks!! Im going for a spin........ what exactly does that capped line do?

 

Okay excuse my ignorance but I still don't get what is involved in installing this piggyback. Why is soldering needed? Can't you just splice wires? I have never soldered anything, and wouldn't want to get into that.

 

soldering gives you a much better connection that just twisting wires together and since you are altering and monitoring digital and analog signals you definetly need the best connection possible.

I just picked up a cold solder kit thats wireless and it seems to work great so far and no cords or burning yourself on a hot iron.

 

So then with the Psi Fi kit, the only thing you have to solder together is wires? No soldering stuff onto an electronic board or anything of that difficult nature? Because if it's just like splicing wires, except you're soldering to get a better connection, then i'd be fine.

 

I dunno I don't have the PSIFI kit

 

Exactly... Its very easy..

 

so u have to change the pull on th sc for this piggyback mod ?? cuz thats wat it seems like