Questoin on MAf output voltage
Questoin on MAf output voltage
As you guys know I hardly ever ask for anything, but this one has got me and a few others really stumped.
Ok here's my problem, never seen this happen before, and so far everyone I've talked to is stumped. I have a snow performance meth kit with MAF-t, now I used to have the exact kit on my car and it worked flawlessly, even basically hooked it up to the same connections I had the last time. This is a brand new kit since I sold my other setup to buy new axles.
Ok now the problem, everything connected correctly, I turn the key to on position and the pump comes on, tried like 6 different grounds, same issue. I checked voltage at the yellow wire from the maf-t to the control unit with key on it's at 4.8 volts which is way high. So I checked the voltage at the MAF signal wire and it was reading btwn 3.8-4.5. Now this is with the car not running and in key on position. IT should be reading @1.5 volts. Now for another oddity. With the key off and out of ignition, I get 1.5 volts. I have no idea what is causing this, unless I"m having a problem with an engine ground, but since I checked em all, I don't think that's it.
Today I switched out the controller to a boost switch just to have it working to help cut down on the heat generated. That won't work either, but if I hot wire the pump, it comes right on. I have power to the relay, everything is wired as the instructions say, boost is tee'd off from the line coming from the intake manifold. I need to get at least one setup working asap since my car is not liking the high IAT2's.
If anyone has an idea of what the hell is going on, please let me know.
Thanks in advance.
Ok here's my problem, never seen this happen before, and so far everyone I've talked to is stumped. I have a snow performance meth kit with MAF-t, now I used to have the exact kit on my car and it worked flawlessly, even basically hooked it up to the same connections I had the last time. This is a brand new kit since I sold my other setup to buy new axles.
Ok now the problem, everything connected correctly, I turn the key to on position and the pump comes on, tried like 6 different grounds, same issue. I checked voltage at the yellow wire from the maf-t to the control unit with key on it's at 4.8 volts which is way high. So I checked the voltage at the MAF signal wire and it was reading btwn 3.8-4.5. Now this is with the car not running and in key on position. IT should be reading @1.5 volts. Now for another oddity. With the key off and out of ignition, I get 1.5 volts. I have no idea what is causing this, unless I"m having a problem with an engine ground, but since I checked em all, I don't think that's it.
Today I switched out the controller to a boost switch just to have it working to help cut down on the heat generated. That won't work either, but if I hot wire the pump, it comes right on. I have power to the relay, everything is wired as the instructions say, boost is tee'd off from the line coming from the intake manifold. I need to get at least one setup working asap since my car is not liking the high IAT2's.
If anyone has an idea of what the hell is going on, please let me know.
Thanks in advance.
As you guys know I hardly ever ask for anything, but this one has got me and a few others really stumped.
Ok here's my problem, never seen this happen before, and so far everyone I've talked to is stumped. I have a snow performance meth kit with MAF-t, now I used to have the exact kit on my car and it worked flawlessly, even basically hooked it up to the same connections I had the last time. This is a brand new kit since I sold my other setup to buy new axles.
Ok now the problem, everything connected correctly, I turn the key to on position and the pump comes on, tried like 6 different grounds, same issue. I checked voltage at the yellow wire from the maf-t to the control unit with key on it's at 4.8 volts which is way high. So I checked the voltage at the MAF signal wire and it was reading btwn 3.8-4.5. Now this is with the car not running and in key on position. IT should be reading @1.5 volts. Now for another oddity. With the key off and out of ignition, I get 1.5 volts. I have no idea what is causing this, unless I"m having a problem with an engine ground, but since I checked em all, I don't think that's it.
Today I switched out the controller to a boost switch just to have it working to help cut down on the heat generated. That won't work either, but if I hot wire the pump, it comes right on. I have power to the relay, everything is wired as the instructions say, boost is tee'd off from the line coming from the intake manifold. I need to get at least one setup working asap since my car is not liking the high IAT2's.
If anyone has an idea of what the hell is going on, please let me know.
Thanks in advance.
Ok here's my problem, never seen this happen before, and so far everyone I've talked to is stumped. I have a snow performance meth kit with MAF-t, now I used to have the exact kit on my car and it worked flawlessly, even basically hooked it up to the same connections I had the last time. This is a brand new kit since I sold my other setup to buy new axles.
Ok now the problem, everything connected correctly, I turn the key to on position and the pump comes on, tried like 6 different grounds, same issue. I checked voltage at the yellow wire from the maf-t to the control unit with key on it's at 4.8 volts which is way high. So I checked the voltage at the MAF signal wire and it was reading btwn 3.8-4.5. Now this is with the car not running and in key on position. IT should be reading @1.5 volts. Now for another oddity. With the key off and out of ignition, I get 1.5 volts. I have no idea what is causing this, unless I"m having a problem with an engine ground, but since I checked em all, I don't think that's it.
Today I switched out the controller to a boost switch just to have it working to help cut down on the heat generated. That won't work either, but if I hot wire the pump, it comes right on. I have power to the relay, everything is wired as the instructions say, boost is tee'd off from the line coming from the intake manifold. I need to get at least one setup working asap since my car is not liking the high IAT2's.
If anyone has an idea of what the hell is going on, please let me know.
Thanks in advance.
Sounds to me like your problem is actually at the MAF sensor or it's wiring. Maybe you have a problem, not at the engine ground but at the MAF sensor connector. That's what it sounds like to me.
Edit: Post up your results tomorrow. I don't have my manual, I left it in Dallas. I will try to help if I can.
If you're seeing a variable voltage, something is definetly bad, shorted, poorly ground.
To check MAF ground, measure the resistance between the MAF ground and a known good ground and if its less than 5ohm you're good. Also check for battery voltage on the power wire in the MAF.
To check MAF ground, measure the resistance between the MAF ground and a known good ground and if its less than 5ohm you're good. Also check for battery voltage on the power wire in the MAF.
GM MAF sensors hold a constant voltage through all air flow points, thus the reason for the MAF-T in the alky kit.
Since GM MAF sensors report back a variable frequency, they hold constant voltage. These type of sensors are usaully referred to as a digital sensor unlike most other brands which send a variable voltage to the PCM, which are referred to as an analog MAF. If the MAF reported via variable voltage, there would be no need to convert frequency to a variable voltage signal via the MAF-T.
Since GM MAF sensors report back a variable frequency, they hold constant voltage. These type of sensors are usaully referred to as a digital sensor unlike most other brands which send a variable voltage to the PCM, which are referred to as an analog MAF. If the MAF reported via variable voltage, there would be no need to convert frequency to a variable voltage signal via the MAF-T.
GM MAF sensors hold a constant voltage through all air flow points, thus the reason for the MAF-T in the alky kit.
Since GM MAF sensors report back a variable frequency, they hold constant voltage. These type of sensors are usaully referred to as a digital sensor unlike most other brands which send a variable voltage to the PCM, which are referred to as an analog MAF. If the MAF reported via variable voltage, there would be no need to convert frequency to a variable voltage signal via the MAF-T.
Since GM MAF sensors report back a variable frequency, they hold constant voltage. These type of sensors are usaully referred to as a digital sensor unlike most other brands which send a variable voltage to the PCM, which are referred to as an analog MAF. If the MAF reported via variable voltage, there would be no need to convert frequency to a variable voltage signal via the MAF-T.
So in that case, could you please tell me the voltage range of the sensor at the signal wire, and what the proper voltage should be at KOEO and KOER with the sensor backprobed; just curious.
Did you ever figure out the problem because I had the same problem. I then tried ALL the dip switches and it seems it only works with the dip switches down on the most aggressive setting and my car doesn't like it. But I got a new MAF T and the color of the wires are all the same except for 1. The old one had black, red, green and yellow.. Now the new MAF T from Snow Performance has black, red, green and white... I want to hook the new one up but i'm afraid the wiring is different or if just the white wire took the place of the yellow?
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