Racing clutch
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Racing clutch
Is a Kenedy stage 4 clutch too much for the rear main bearing or crank on an ecotec? I understand they are hard on some engines. I'm burning 200mm disks so I plan on sticking with stage 4 and upgrading to a 6 puck clutch disk. Any body not like the heavy clutch and puck disc combination? I've never used one.
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
i doubt anyone here has ever heard of a kenedy clutch as they dont make anything to fit a cobalt.
the ecotec doesnt seem to have thrust bearing issues, but most dont run a very heavy clutch in these cars. i myself dont like a real heavy clutch, its hard to modulate, and it wouldnt be easy in something as light as your buggy. the other downside is puck clutches tend to be quite aggressive, and its very hard on the transaxle. i know there are some twin disc clutch setups out there for the ecotec sand rails, i would look into that. a twin full faced disc clutch is going to be far more friendly to your leg and the transaxle than a single high clamp load puck clutch
the ecotec doesnt seem to have thrust bearing issues, but most dont run a very heavy clutch in these cars. i myself dont like a real heavy clutch, its hard to modulate, and it wouldnt be easy in something as light as your buggy. the other downside is puck clutches tend to be quite aggressive, and its very hard on the transaxle. i know there are some twin disc clutch setups out there for the ecotec sand rails, i would look into that. a twin full faced disc clutch is going to be far more friendly to your leg and the transaxle than a single high clamp load puck clutch
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Stumpalump (02-27-2017)
#3
Member
Thread Starter
I hauled the parts down to my tranny guru for another take on it. Don is the best transaxle guy because he nails gear ratios and only charges for what you break when he rebuilds them. Dons Bus Box - VW Bus Engines, Transmissions & Transaxles
My flywheel is getting blue but found out it's a $$ custom made deal for ecotec conversions. The pressure plate and clutch are hard racing stuff. All new parts would always be best but he suggested to run the old flywheel and pressure plate and throw in a 6 puck racing disk. Aftermarket hydrolic master and slave from CNC what I use. Just pick a bore size so it's easy to push. I love this clutch. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Cnc-Blue-...&wl13=&veh=sem
I need to hyper spin the tires and beat it like a two stroke 125 dirt bike at times. I'll hold hope that this aggressive disk does not twist parts. It's supposed to grab like an on off switch but it won't slip. Don said I'll get used to it. Wish me luck.....
My flywheel is getting blue but found out it's a $$ custom made deal for ecotec conversions. The pressure plate and clutch are hard racing stuff. All new parts would always be best but he suggested to run the old flywheel and pressure plate and throw in a 6 puck racing disk. Aftermarket hydrolic master and slave from CNC what I use. Just pick a bore size so it's easy to push. I love this clutch. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Cnc-Blue-...&wl13=&veh=sem
I need to hyper spin the tires and beat it like a two stroke 125 dirt bike at times. I'll hold hope that this aggressive disk does not twist parts. It's supposed to grab like an on off switch but it won't slip. Don said I'll get used to it. Wish me luck.....
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
I hauled the parts down to my tranny guru for another take on it. Don is the best transaxle guy because he nails gear ratios and only charges for what you break when he rebuilds them. Dons Bus Box - VW Bus Engines, Transmissions & Transaxles
My flywheel is getting blue but found out it's a $$ custom made deal for ecotec conversions. The pressure plate and clutch are hard racing stuff. All new parts would always be best but he suggested to run the old flywheel and pressure plate and throw in a 6 puck racing disk. Aftermarket hydrolic master and slave from CNC what I use. Just pick a bore size so it's easy to push. I love this clutch. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Cnc-Blue-...&wl13=&veh=sem
I need to hyper spin the tires and beat it like a two stroke 125 dirt bike at times. I'll hold hope that this aggressive disk does not twist parts. It's supposed to grab like an on off switch but it won't slip. Don said I'll get used to it. Wish me luck.....
My flywheel is getting blue but found out it's a $$ custom made deal for ecotec conversions. The pressure plate and clutch are hard racing stuff. All new parts would always be best but he suggested to run the old flywheel and pressure plate and throw in a 6 puck racing disk. Aftermarket hydrolic master and slave from CNC what I use. Just pick a bore size so it's easy to push. I love this clutch. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Cnc-Blue-...&wl13=&veh=sem
I need to hyper spin the tires and beat it like a two stroke 125 dirt bike at times. I'll hold hope that this aggressive disk does not twist parts. It's supposed to grab like an on off switch but it won't slip. Don said I'll get used to it. Wish me luck.....
#7
Member
Thread Starter
I drove it yesterday on street tires and it grabs hard. I run those tires to drive it on a trailer or for terrorizing the hood. I'm in AZ so it's legal. You can slip it enough for pulling on a trailer but in normal driving it pretty much locks fast and spins the tires. 1st is only used to get it rolling and second for really rough stuff. Most of the time I just constantly row third and fourth. If it bites hard enough to weelie third and not slip when WFO out of hard turns it should be great. On the street it would suck. You can take off normal but it's so much work and touchy that you would just give up and screetch the tires constantly. If you just plan to take off aggressive then the feel is actually very nice and smooth.