Ok I'm about darn near sick of reading different amounts of supercharger oil needed on every thread I open. YES I HAVE SEARCHED, I'v spent to damn long doing so. Have we yet to decide when changing your coupler with a fully dried supercharger how much oil is needed? I got the good old chattering noise and shes feelin a little loose. It has 85,000 of well driven miles and its about time to change the oil anyways.

So here is the options fill it out.

1. HOW MUCH SUPERCHARGER OIL IS NEEDED? (completely drained)

2. WHAT OIL IS RECOMMENDED? (ZZP, GM or Any suggestions)

3. HOW MANY MILES IS IT RECOMMENDED TO CHANGE OIL?

4. HOW MANY MILES IS IT RECOMMENDED TO CHANGE COUPLER ALONG WITH OIL?

5. IS IT WORTH GETTING A BETTER COUPLER THAN THE STOCK EATON COUPLER? (i.e. ZZP or others)

I just want some good solid answers without having to choose 10 different threads and going with an average. I'm sure many will enjoy the info and its an easy maintenance job. Many of us are facing higher mileage LSJ's and this is one thing that needs to be changed.

 

Eaton doesn't have a service interval on their superchargers. It is considered a "Service-free" sealed setup. Generally you only have to change it when you service the supercharger for repair.

Same with the couplers. The coupler is only meant to be changed when it starts to sound like rocks rattling around at idle.

As far as couplers go, I'd definately go aftermarket. Eatons are known to go bad pretty fast. The ZZP ones tend to be made out of a different material that should last longer.

As far as oil, you can use whatever will work. GM oil is the OEM oil and probably the safest bet.

Eaton's chart seems to show that the M62 supercharger takes 100ml / 3.4 fl OZ of oil.


Eaton's FAQ: http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc.../FAQ/index.htm

 

1. HOW MUCH SUPERCHARGER OIL IS NEEDED? (completely drained) This is the issue that has had alot of mixed answers on, but from EATONS site.... I would go with that amount case closed.

2. WHAT OIL IS RECOMMENDED? Stick with he GM oil, no gains here.

3. HOW MANY MILES IS IT RECOMMENDED TO CHANGE OIL? Depends on waht size pulley you run and how much you beat on the car and how hot do you run. If your running anything below gm stg2 sized pulley though I would change it around 40-50k miles, its cheap and you beat on your car do it.

4. HOW MANY MILES IS IT RECOMMENDED TO CHANGE COUPLER ALONG WITH OIL? I just changed my coupler to the zzp one and im at 60k miles and now no rattle if your car sounds like a rattle can or you beat on it a lot change this after 50k

5. IS IT WORTH GETTING A BETTER COUPLER THAN THE STOCK EATON COUPLER? (i.e. ZZP or others) Yes, go with the zzp, imo.

 

oil I was pretty sure was around 4 oz, but I havent pulled a blower apart in a few yrars

 

I read some where else on this site that the rattling is the timing chain tensioner going bad?

 

it can be many things. SC coupler and timing chain tensioner are the two most likely.

 

https://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt...=813&catid=189

there you go, straight from ZZP, just buy one bottle vs 2...

 

Meh, I'm at 100k miles. Not rattles or changed the fluid. So I really don't understand this talk about couplers going bad, and use aftermarket fluid yada yada yada. I'm pretty sure GM put way more money into developing their SC fluid, than ZZP did. Just sayin.

 

Thanks everyone so far that's about solved my problem. I get the classic rock rattling noise so I'm thinking its the coupler. Iv noticed the noise getting stronger when im at idle on an incline going down. My driveway has a steep incline and I stop to get my mail and you can hear it. I have a feeling the coupler will solve the problem. If not I'll change the timing chain sensor and see if that cures it. My charger has seen some good hard miles with a 2.8 on it. Im sure it's past due for a oil change and a good solid coupler wile I'm at it.

P.S. This may be a good thread to sticky

 

gm dident develop it eaton did they just put a gm sticker on the bottle

 

We need more tq more power to post up in here.

 

ZZP and GM are the same fluid. We just buy it bulk (55 gallon drum) and bottle it ourselves to sell along side the GM bottles.

 

Can we remove the snout without unmounted the sc to the base?

 

Thanks Zoomer I'm gonna be calling you guys up to order some stuff in the next couple days. I live just south of Flint so I'm only a couple hours from you guys. I'm Friends with Jeff (Turbo Impala) and had to drive him out to your shop a couple times lol. BTW do you guys still have his car?

And yes you can change the couple without taking the charger off. ZZP has a link to a how to on there site under the couplers. It was on an M90 but its the same concept.

 

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