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removing laminovas

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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 06:20 PM
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removing laminovas

So im in the middle of revamping my intercooling system and need to know how to properly remove and turn around the laminovas within my intake manifold for my dual pass. Anybody done this before???
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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Yeah. The inlet on the lamnovas is the little opening side. I figured it was the big opening but i saw another pic from GM and it's the little opening.

SO, you can run it into the outside and out the middle, or vice versa i don't think it makes a difference, as long as you have the lamnovas pointing the right way.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 06:38 PM
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be veeeeery gentle with them. the fins bend easily, break off easily, and the laminovas apparently crack easily.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 06:49 PM
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Yes. I already know the directionals and how the system will flow, but back to my original question...HOW DO I REMOVE THEM??? I tried pulling on them and twisting them a little to try and wiggle them out but they wont budge.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 06:51 PM
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Just pull a little harder and be very careful. they will eventually come out! Good luck!
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:24 PM
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They are a PITA I used a vice grip with a rag to stop from scraping them and just wiggled till they came out. I felt like they were never coming out.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:37 PM
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They have a O-ring on them so it makes it a little hard ....I did it by hand just steadily apply pressure & they should come out!
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:40 PM
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the above all work. just make sure you pull straight out while doing this
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:50 PM
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none of the above works well. Use an Adel clamp of suitable size to clamp the end and not damage it, then rotate and pull (gentle tug) with suitable channel lock pliers on the clamp itself. That way you wont damage the laminova cores. Make sure the seals at the ends and the washers are in correct order, and use some lubricant on the seals to avoid damage when reassembling. Reference the many posts from folks hacking/damaging/loosing parts etc. doing this. eBristol would be a good guy to reference for doing it right....
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 09:47 PM
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when you look at the one end of the core you will see the small passedges and the dividers between. if you look close you will see that 2 of the dividers are quite a bit wider, when you are using the clamp make sure you clamp on that spot. if you dont you could end up colapsing a passedge and the o-ring wont seal. i had that happen to me, coolant ended up leaking into the manifold.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharkey
when you look at the one end of the core you will see the small passedges and the dividers between. if you look close you will see that 2 of the dividers are quite a bit wider, when you are using the clamp make sure you clamp on that spot. if you dont you could end up colapsing a passedge and the o-ring wont seal. i had that happen to me, coolant ended up leaking into the manifold.
sharkey knows....good advice
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 10:26 PM
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There really is no benefit to risking damaging them, unless you have a high pressure system. The general accepted way is orifice upstream (inlet) but it'll work either way.

/flame suit on
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 11:46 PM
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im guessing the OP is doing a dual pass end plate, thus needing to swap 2 cores around. if you dont swap them it is impossible to bleed the air out of the system.
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 12:22 AM
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That's what the .040" orifice at the end of the 1/4" hose is for. It's a constant loss path for the coolant/air to go back to the head of the radiator. Once it's purged, having a .040" flow not going through the cold side is pretty insignificant.

Water pretty much doesn't care if the tube is before or after the orifice.. the orifii are there merely to give the water loiter time in the tubes, otherwise the water would not be there long enough to transfer calories into the water. Same reason a car will run hotter with no thermostat than with one.
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 12:35 AM
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what ends up happening is you will get an air pocket right above the orfice in the laminova. its unavoidable, and thats why when the dual pass was designed the gm stage 3 manual stated that you must flip the cores.
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 12:59 AM
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If you say so.. but I've run mine both ways.. lucky I guess
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Dennisscars
That's what the .040" orifice at the end of the 1/4" hose is for. It's a constant loss path for the coolant/air to go back to the head of the radiator. Once it's purged, having a .040" flow not going through the cold side is pretty insignificant.

Water pretty much doesn't care if the tube is before or after the orifice.. the orifii are there merely to give the water loiter time in the tubes, otherwise the water would not be there long enough to transfer calories into the water. Same reason a car will run hotter with no thermostat than with one.
??? not exactly.
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 09:45 AM
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So then there is no reason for these?

Link
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 12:40 PM
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This is a good topic. 1.5 years ago when I did mine . I could not get the tubes to come out either so I left them in for fear that I would break something when trying to pull them out. Now I hear that I have to do this because otherwise I'm loosing 40-50% over stock for cooling. When it gets warmer where I live I will do this so I can afford to leave the car down for a day if need be and use the motorcycle back and forth to get me to work.

We need a how to for this with photos . The GMS3 kit is crap for showing the tubes and how they need to be "flipped" with small orfices in the center .

If you do this please shoot some photos for this.
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 01:35 AM
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Thanks guys. I jus used a pair of pliers and a rag like Maxim X said and they came right out. The one was a little harder to get popped out from the other side.
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 10:00 AM
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I cant post piktars on this site so I will get maven to do it. please wrap the end of the core in a hose clamp or better, an adel clamp the ends are so so soft....
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
I cant post piktars on this site so I will get maven to do it. please wrap the end of the core in a hose clamp or better, an adel clamp the ends are so so soft....
Where are the photos???
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:12 AM
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Umm yeah im pretty sure the big hole is for inlets and the small hole is for outlets. I have mine setup with the outer two being the big ones and the middle two being the smaller ones. It doesnt make sense to force water through a small hole into a large area, your going to lose a tone of velocity and pressure. I dont even think you could properly bleed the system with a setup like that, i dont think the smaller hole would flow enough fluid to fill up the diamater of the core.

Big holes are for water entry into the cores, small holes are for exit. This causes pressure and velocity in the system.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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gotta wait until Maven and i get together if you want pics.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
gotta wait until Maven and i get together if you want pics.
Yes the pics are needed . This would be good for the site
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