removing laminovas
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From: Elizabethtown, PA
removing laminovas
So im in the middle of revamping my intercooling system and need to know how to properly remove and turn around the laminovas within my intake manifold for my dual pass. Anybody done this before???
Yeah. The inlet on the lamnovas is the little opening side. I figured it was the big opening but i saw another pic from GM and it's the little opening.
SO, you can run it into the outside and out the middle, or vice versa i don't think it makes a difference, as long as you have the lamnovas pointing the right way.
SO, you can run it into the outside and out the middle, or vice versa i don't think it makes a difference, as long as you have the lamnovas pointing the right way.
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From: Elizabethtown, PA
Yes. I already know the directionals and how the system will flow, but back to my original question...HOW DO I REMOVE THEM??? I tried pulling on them and twisting them a little to try and wiggle them out but they wont budge.
none of the above works well. Use an Adel clamp of suitable size to clamp the end and not damage it, then rotate and pull (gentle tug) with suitable channel lock pliers on the clamp itself. That way you wont damage the laminova cores. Make sure the seals at the ends and the washers are in correct order, and use some lubricant on the seals to avoid damage when reassembling. Reference the many posts from folks hacking/damaging/loosing parts etc. doing this. eBristol would be a good guy to reference for doing it right....
when you look at the one end of the core you will see the small passedges and the dividers between. if you look close you will see that 2 of the dividers are quite a bit wider, when you are using the clamp make sure you clamp on that spot. if you dont you could end up colapsing a passedge and the o-ring wont seal. i had that happen to me, coolant ended up leaking into the manifold.
when you look at the one end of the core you will see the small passedges and the dividers between. if you look close you will see that 2 of the dividers are quite a bit wider, when you are using the clamp make sure you clamp on that spot. if you dont you could end up colapsing a passedge and the o-ring wont seal. i had that happen to me, coolant ended up leaking into the manifold.
That's what the .040" orifice at the end of the 1/4" hose is for. It's a constant loss path for the coolant/air to go back to the head of the radiator. Once it's purged, having a .040" flow not going through the cold side is pretty insignificant.
Water pretty much doesn't care if the tube is before or after the orifice.. the orifii are there merely to give the water loiter time in the tubes, otherwise the water would not be there long enough to transfer calories into the water. Same reason a car will run hotter with no thermostat than with one.
Water pretty much doesn't care if the tube is before or after the orifice.. the orifii are there merely to give the water loiter time in the tubes, otherwise the water would not be there long enough to transfer calories into the water. Same reason a car will run hotter with no thermostat than with one.
what ends up happening is you will get an air pocket right above the orfice in the laminova. its unavoidable, and thats why when the dual pass was designed the gm stage 3 manual stated that you must flip the cores.
That's what the .040" orifice at the end of the 1/4" hose is for. It's a constant loss path for the coolant/air to go back to the head of the radiator. Once it's purged, having a .040" flow not going through the cold side is pretty insignificant.
Water pretty much doesn't care if the tube is before or after the orifice.. the orifii are there merely to give the water loiter time in the tubes, otherwise the water would not be there long enough to transfer calories into the water. Same reason a car will run hotter with no thermostat than with one.
Water pretty much doesn't care if the tube is before or after the orifice.. the orifii are there merely to give the water loiter time in the tubes, otherwise the water would not be there long enough to transfer calories into the water. Same reason a car will run hotter with no thermostat than with one.
This is a good topic. 1.5 years ago when I did mine . I could not get the tubes to come out either so I left them in for fear that I would break something when trying to pull them out. Now I hear that I have to do this because otherwise I'm loosing 40-50% over stock for cooling. When it gets warmer where I live I will do this so I can afford to leave the car down for a day if need be and use the motorcycle back and forth to get me to work.
We need a how to for this with photos . The GMS3 kit is crap for showing the tubes and how they need to be "flipped" with small orfices in the center .
If you do this please shoot some photos for this.
We need a how to for this with photos . The GMS3 kit is crap for showing the tubes and how they need to be "flipped" with small orfices in the center .
If you do this please shoot some photos for this.
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From: Elizabethtown, PA
Thanks guys. I jus used a pair of pliers and a rag like Maxim X said and they came right out. The one was a little harder to get popped out from the other side.
Umm yeah im pretty sure the big hole is for inlets and the small hole is for outlets. I have mine setup with the outer two being the big ones and the middle two being the smaller ones. It doesnt make sense to force water through a small hole into a large area, your going to lose a tone of velocity and pressure. I dont even think you could properly bleed the system with a setup like that, i dont think the smaller hole would flow enough fluid to fill up the diamater of the core.
Big holes are for water entry into the cores, small holes are for exit. This causes pressure and velocity in the system.
Big holes are for water entry into the cores, small holes are for exit. This causes pressure and velocity in the system.


