2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Setup question

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Old 04-10-2018, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by HGT
The only difference is in cold engine emissions from start up to warm up. I don't think there is anyone on here that cares about their emissions at any time based on all the cat-less downpipes installed.
Better spray pattern hitting the the back of the intake valves instead of valves and port. Performance wise the difference may be insignificant like you say but split spray is the more correct configuration for dual intake valves. I just wanted OP to be aware he does have a choice whether he cares or not though his comment indicated he did have concerns.
Old 04-11-2018, 12:04 PM
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Cant decide if it is worth the cost for the other injectors. Why is it important to have the injectors flow tested? How does that get adjusted in the tune? ZZP does not flow test them. There is a company on ebay that does flowtest the 60lb siemens.

Last edited by joe88; 04-11-2018 at 12:48 PM.
Old 04-11-2018, 12:14 PM
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It's not...
You do not have to have new injectors flow tested.
The tune sets the injector on time based on inputs.
Old 04-11-2018, 12:57 PM
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I think they flowtest them to make sure the injectors they pair up are within a certain threshold for the amount of fuel they inject at a specific fuel pressure and various durations so that you can ensure the amount of fuel being injected is the same across all cylinders.
Old 04-11-2018, 01:00 PM
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i doubt zzp is flow matching the injectors, not for the price they charge for them.
Old 04-11-2018, 01:00 PM
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You said you wanted milage.....Have you seen how inefficient this blower is with a 2.9? That's the lowest you can go without crazy heat and horrid inefficiency. This is an Internet forum for poor ricer wannabes with disregard for sense, efficiency or milage. They want to beat a Honda is all. If you want to nail it twice a week then listen to them. If you want to keep a nice clean low milage car practical but a little faster and with milage then look at the pully efficiency tables and chose wisely. 60's and 2.9 are harder to tune than 42's and 3.0 or 3.1 and you just got yourself into the HS go faster mentality because grand mom will buy you a new car when this one gets wrecked or broken. I run a 2.9 on race gas. I would never fathom a 2.8. Read the tables they don't work. A 2.9 is pushing it. You have a clean car that runs on liquid gold Canadian gas. Get 60 pound injectors and pulleys that need them out of your head unless you are building another Honda killer. Weddle site quote "If your going to drive it like its a race car then prepair to buy parts like its a race car." Keep it simple dude....
Old 04-11-2018, 01:15 PM
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^^Not sure who you are referring to that wants to beat Honda's but I agree that for a daily on 91 there is no need to go below a 3.0. Also "More power" and "Better gas mileage" don't even belong in the same sentence unless you are talking about converting to a turbo. Supercharger efficiency tables don't really come into play for typical gas mileage that much as when cruising the supercharger is just swirling air around although the smaller the pulley the faster the supercharger will be idling making it drag more on the engine which will drop the fuel mileage.

Also stumpalump, have you ever considered water/methanol injection? I run a TVS on a 2.8 on 91 with water/methanol injection and 23 degrees of ignition timing. Makes a lot cheaper and more versatile road going car than running race gas.
Old 04-11-2018, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Stumpalump
Have you seen how inefficient this blower is with a 2.9? That's the lowest you can go without crazy heat and horrid inefficiency.
That blanket statement does not work everywhere and for everyone.

Some are putting an M62 on a 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4. They will see 3 different boost pressures.
Some live at sea level, some live above 6000' ASL. Tough to compress what you don't have.

I run a 2.8 with 60's and make 10 psi in a 2.4 at 6000' ASL
My IAT temps with dual pass, Option B and dual heat exchangers is unbelievably cool.
Old 04-11-2018, 01:58 PM
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i think its a little hard for you to comment on fuel economy Stumpalump, your lsj isnt in a street driven car.

42lb vs 60lb injectors, sure they were harder to tune back before people knew how to tune these cars properly. people have been running 60lb injectors for more than 10 years now, its been sorted out. when i switched to 60lb injectors i saw no change in fuel economy, and only a minor change in idle quality.

when i dropped the pulley size down to the 2.7" im on now (from a 2.9") yes i saw a little drop in fuel economy. was it a big drop, no, it was somewhere around 1 mpg. im willing to give that up for the increase in torque the 2.7" pulley provided.

honestly, i cant believe something as simple as pulley/injector setup has turned into such a polarized argument. i mean, its been known for years what works and whats safe to run, and what mods are generally needed for each pulley size.
Old 04-11-2018, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Stumpalump
You said you wanted milage.....Have you seen how inefficient this blower is with a 2.9? That's the lowest you can go without crazy heat and horrid inefficiency. This is an Internet forum for poor ricer wannabes with disregard for sense, efficiency or milage. They want to beat a Honda is all. If you want to nail it twice a week then listen to them. If you want to keep a nice clean low milage car practical but a little faster and with milage then look at the pully efficiency tables and chose wisely. 60's and 2.9 are harder to tune than 42's and 3.0 or 3.1 and you just got yourself into the HS go faster mentality because grand mom will buy you a new car when this one gets wrecked or broken. I run a 2.9 on race gas. I would never fathom a 2.8. Read the tables they don't work. A 2.9 is pushing it. You have a clean car that runs on liquid gold Canadian gas. Get 60 pound injectors and pulleys that need them out of your head unless you are building another Honda killer. Weddle site quote "If your going to drive it like its a race car then prepair to buy parts like its a race car." Keep it simple dude....
lol really? have you ever ran a 2.8???

my car is getting 33-35mpg on the highway, 27combined.

we have 92octane here. i watch the timing and iat2 and it never backs timing down and iat2 is not out of control.

lots of people run m62s on different motors with no charge cooling... they are getting like 160+ iat2.

with no cooling mods and a 2.8 1-3rd wot pull (enough for a 1/4) iat2 get up to 130ish.

extreme heat soak is only going to matter road racing, i dont even see it getting that hot doing autocross its too short.

with my cooling mods, LT, and 2.8. do wot pulls all day up to 7200rpm and maybe get 110iat2. thats lower than a lot of NA motors.

i really don't see why so many people keep saying these smaller pulleys will explodeded your motor
Old 04-11-2018, 07:08 PM
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I still would discourage a newb into modifying a nice a car that he needs milage out of into a race car that he said he wants to tune himself. Next he needs a guage to watch temps because the car is heading towards meltdown after 1/4 mile??? That's an on ramp to a hiway and then he is done until it cools? Line up the rest of the mods for him because it's a slippery slope and components like mounts and trannys break. What fun is that? A DD should be beatable with the tunes blaring not a finicky race car with gauges to watch, stress of wondering if supporting mods should be done ect. Add in the cops, texting drivers, no helmet, cage or 5 point and all my buds and racers say the same thing. The street sucks. Maybe we are just scared....Scared that the DD is going to eat into our race car money. My new to me chassis is 4K. That's just tubes. Hmmm maybe I'm the dumb azz....lol
Old 04-11-2018, 08:13 PM
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It won't melt down... It's a huge exaggeration. Tons of cars running m62 with no intercooling
Old 04-12-2018, 12:26 PM
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Very much appreciate the responses. I have already dealt with an unreliable car after the last one I purchased. Ended up putting 4 grand into it to get it running right. I was so done with the car though that I put it up for sale. I did eventually teach myself to tune the lnf though. I dont race anyone on the streets, never have. I just like to get the blood flowing sometimes to keep me awake.

Im leaning towards the 3.1 pulley and maybe keeping the 2.9 for track days. I figure ill lose almost the cost of it if I return it to zzp. In order to do this though I would need to run the 60s.

I have thought about the transmission and do have an lnf transmission if need be. I was hoping to just limit torque before 3000rpm in the tune like the lnf to help save it. I have purchased the motor mount from powell and will be putting that in once I get the second spacer for the lsj.

I had found this
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...00/index2.html

previously about the efficiency, and other stuff stating not to go below the 2.9 pulley size. I assume the poster was referring more to power than efficiency then?
Old 04-12-2018, 04:01 PM
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You shouldnt need to worry about breaking the transmission on an LSJ. The LNF cars only do that because the baby turbo makes peak torque so low in the rpm range.
Old 04-12-2018, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by joe88
Im leaning towards the 3.1 pulley and maybe keeping the 2.9 for track days.
this is really the opposite. are you reading the posts? track days when you're working the car hard with no time to cool down is where your problem is.

on the street you'd do a pull then cruise... unless you're a maniac and drive WOT every time possible on the street.
Old 04-12-2018, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Bliss
this is really the opposite. are you reading the posts? track days when you're working the car hard with no time to cool down is where your problem is.

on the street you'd do a pull then cruise... unless you're a maniac and drive WOT every time possible on the street.
I meant if I got the appropriate cooling mods and was running a higher octane for track days. I may just put it on kijiji.
Old 04-12-2018, 05:50 PM
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the normal cool mods can only go so far, i think after hammers it for a few laps you're going to get hot and stay hot. maybe it'll just be down on power and not get out of control.

i'm pretty sure the cobalt guys that stay supercharger on track cars use the $400+ griffin heat exchanger and it works great.

or i guess zzp makes one that now that is $340

https://zzperformance.com/ecotec/zzp...exchanger.html

$449
OTTP Stage 2 Heat Exchanger (Griffin)
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