single to dual pass?
single to dual pass?
okay, so i did a bit of searching and could not find anything about actually turning a single endplate into a dual pass.
i have heard of many people creating their own dual pass out of their single pass, but was wondering what exactly does one have to do, in order to make it work?
i was thinking just welding a hole into single pass i have, getting the valve piece, sticking it in the hole, and sticking some quick steel into it to hold it in place. let it dry, then weld it in place.
would this work? i've never really messed with this, and since i have a cobra h/e on its way, and am charging my 2.2 in ....4 weeks or so i need to make sure i got all the stuff ready.
if theres an easier way let me know, and if someone else posted about this before sorry...i did plenty of searching and couldn't find it so just post the link.
thanks
i have heard of many people creating their own dual pass out of their single pass, but was wondering what exactly does one have to do, in order to make it work?
i was thinking just welding a hole into single pass i have, getting the valve piece, sticking it in the hole, and sticking some quick steel into it to hold it in place. let it dry, then weld it in place.
would this work? i've never really messed with this, and since i have a cobra h/e on its way, and am charging my 2.2 in ....4 weeks or so i need to make sure i got all the stuff ready.
if theres an easier way let me know, and if someone else posted about this before sorry...i did plenty of searching and couldn't find it so just post the link.
thanks
Stock is 4 pass, not single pass. My intake manifold is single pass. It is more efficient and cooler than a dual pass.
you can get your stock endplate modified to do dual pass, it should cost too much.
you can get your stock endplate modified to do dual pass, it should cost too much.
i read so much negative about meth, i use it have a great trunk mount kit i got from some of it from OTTP some from Hwlynss711, its not expensive, i only use currently the simple boost switch not the progressive controller which i want to use, and a pyskotune and its like 100% reliable . Ands works. Sure i got option b and a single pass laminova and a racing dual pass Griffin h/e but whats the beef with meth? Ralli was fastest stock pulley for the longest time with meth
I still hold the fastest stock pulley times. and I plan to swap it back on just for ***** in giggles next season after I get my 12sec pass and the fastest "legit" ss/sc by beating stu's times.
oh yea, as a response to the guys wondering how to do this. im putting what paul
06blackg85ss said, a little looking myself, and
also the picture posted with the cores swapped is from SS33's, post.
givin' credit, where credit is due.
1.just pull off the end plate
2. drill and tap it to a 1/2" sized hole, in the center at a slight angle towards the front to clear the oil cooler. (see third picture)
3. use an male NPT by Hose barb elbow. (see 5th pic)
4.Re-arrange the cores to have both large holes toward the the middle small holes to the outside. (see 4th pic)
WARNING - Be careful not to nick the o-rings on the cores and the long o-ring seal for the plate itself or the thing will be drinking lots of coolant. (swapped cores pictured at bottom.
SIDE NOTE -
you can use regular drill bits, but start off on a small one and move on up.
if you don't the plate will crap out and crack. Make sure you follow the correct size for the tap and fittings you will use, and remember to use teflon tape on the threads
pic number 1 (final product)

pic number 2 (before, and positioning)

pic number 3 (shows how to angle the elbow to clear the oil cooler, and the tight space)
[/QUOTE]
pic number 4(the cores swapped)

pic number 5(where to buy online, id number, name etc)

hope that helps! again, i only put this in a nice package, got the info from paul, and the cores swapped picture from ss33!
i have no beef with meth.
i said At the moment, i don't wanna deal with it.
i'm just anxious to get my supercharger running and on the car if ya know what i mean
06blackg85ss said, a little looking myself, and
also the picture posted with the cores swapped is from SS33's, post.
givin' credit, where credit is due.
1.just pull off the end plate
2. drill and tap it to a 1/2" sized hole, in the center at a slight angle towards the front to clear the oil cooler. (see third picture)
3. use an male NPT by Hose barb elbow. (see 5th pic)
4.Re-arrange the cores to have both large holes toward the the middle small holes to the outside. (see 4th pic)
WARNING - Be careful not to nick the o-rings on the cores and the long o-ring seal for the plate itself or the thing will be drinking lots of coolant. (swapped cores pictured at bottom.
SIDE NOTE -
you can use regular drill bits, but start off on a small one and move on up.
if you don't the plate will crap out and crack. Make sure you follow the correct size for the tap and fittings you will use, and remember to use teflon tape on the threads
pic number 1 (final product)

pic number 2 (before, and positioning)

pic number 3 (shows how to angle the elbow to clear the oil cooler, and the tight space)
[/QUOTE]pic number 4(the cores swapped)
pic number 5(where to buy online, id number, name etc)

hope that helps! again, i only put this in a nice package, got the info from paul, and the cores swapped picture from ss33!
i read so much negative about meth, i use it have a great trunk mount kit i got from some of it from OTTP some from Hwlynss711, its not expensive, i only use currently the simple boost switch not the progressive controller which i want to use, and a pyskotune and its like 100% reliable . Ands works. Sure i got option b and a single pass laminova and a racing dual pass Griffin h/e but whats the beef with meth? Ralli was fastest stock pulley for the longest time with meth
i said At the moment, i don't wanna deal with it.
i'm just anxious to get my supercharger running and on the car if ya know what i mean
Last edited by ei3dag3; Nov 23, 2008 at 11:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
well, if it makes you feel better. im still running the stock end plate, and my IC fluid temps dont rise at all....due to the larger displacement, we will yield less boost per the same CFM, and less boost pressure means less compression, which means less heat.
basically, IAT2 will always be cooler on a 2.2 opposed to a 2.0 assuming all mods are the same, and i dont need a dual pass for my 3" pulley at all!
i should have a quote for you by monday evening btw
basically, IAT2 will always be cooler on a 2.2 opposed to a 2.0 assuming all mods are the same, and i dont need a dual pass for my 3" pulley at all!

i should have a quote for you by monday evening btw
I am attempting to do the dual pass endplate myself and am looking for the fitting in that picture from interviewatruins. The part listed is for .5" hose; not .75"? Anybody know the correct p#? Thanks!
Edit: I think I figured it out; gonna double check with the OP first and see what he thinks........
Edit: I think I figured it out; gonna double check with the OP first and see what he thinks........
Last edited by thewizard; Dec 5, 2008 at 02:17 AM. Reason: progress
the way the hoses connect is pretty simple for me, but for the Cobalt guys it seems to be much more involved. There are diagrams in the sticky for the dual pass that explain it. I just can't find the 90 elbow i need!
EDIT: The right part should have 1/2" MNPT threads with a 3/4 barb on it: ITBZ6 if using Grainger
If you want a straight piece, depending upon your routing of course, route66supply.com has a nice stainless part in two different lengths.
EDIT: The right part should have 1/2" MNPT threads with a 3/4 barb on it: ITBZ6 if using Grainger
If you want a straight piece, depending upon your routing of course, route66supply.com has a nice stainless part in two different lengths.
Last edited by thewizard; Dec 8, 2008 at 12:01 PM. Reason: figured it out after wasting $16
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