So much for "Just a radiator"
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So much for "Just a radiator"
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https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...r-help-237520/
Slid off the road a few weeks ago and busted my radiator. Didn't know I busted the radiator until I looked at it the next morning. Changed the radiator, got the car running finally, and this is what I get...
Looks like I'll be filing a claim for that accident, because I'll be damned if I replace a cracked block or a head gasket in January.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...r-help-237520/
Slid off the road a few weeks ago and busted my radiator. Didn't know I busted the radiator until I looked at it the next morning. Changed the radiator, got the car running finally, and this is what I get...
Looks like I'll be filing a claim for that accident, because I'll be damned if I replace a cracked block or a head gasket in January.
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I'm sure I did. I was about a mile from my house when it happened, and I didn't know I messed up anything until my low coolant light came on, but hey, if I'm going to get pretty much a new engine for my $500 deductible, you won't hear me complain.
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Well, I spoke with the rep at the dealer who's doing the work on my car and it looks like I'm getting a brand new engine! I couldn't be happier about that. I have 91k on my old motor and a year left to pay on it and I get to start fresh. Looks like my Cobalt's not going anywhere anytime soon.
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+1 Now is the time to do the correct upgrades while the motor will be out. Clutch + stock lsj flywheel is a good idea. I recommend getting the gm upgrade clutch as it can hold over 350whp with ease. You might also want to think about upgrading all of your grounds if you are into car audio at all .
I can't think of anything else that should be done while its out other then that off the top of my head. If I think of more I will be sure to post it.
I can't think of anything else that should be done while its out other then that off the top of my head. If I think of more I will be sure to post it.
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I would love to do all of that, but I'm going to have to write a $500 check for my deductible when this is all said and done , but believe me, now that I'm getting a new engine, there will be plenty more to come. I definitely plan on getting wheels with my tax return.
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I don't care if you have to sell your wifes wedding ring / engagement ring or sell a kidney lol. Changing the clutch in these cars is kind of a pain in the ass, mechanic or not. Most shops will charge roughly 600+ dollars to do it so it's only logical to get it out of the way now.
You can pick up the gmpp upgrade clutch for roughly 200ish, it's extremely cheap and will hold all of the power. Even if you have to borrow money from someone, it's going to save you 600+clutch down the road. Re-using the clutch you are on now is a bad bad idea.
Also make sure you follow proper break in procedures and change the oil often with this new motor. I believe we go buy after the first 3 start ups, after the first 50 miles, the first 100, the first 500 miles, the first 1k miles, then at 3k and 5k. Use "break in oil" for the beginning oil changes. Brad Penn makes good oil but you can use any oil of your choice including cheap walmart oil. After the break in of 3-5k whatever you feel is safe, obviously use mobil 1 5w30 or whatever you normally run.
PS: This tip above will help you out more then you know
You can pick up the gmpp upgrade clutch for roughly 200ish, it's extremely cheap and will hold all of the power. Even if you have to borrow money from someone, it's going to save you 600+clutch down the road. Re-using the clutch you are on now is a bad bad idea.
Also make sure you follow proper break in procedures and change the oil often with this new motor. I believe we go buy after the first 3 start ups, after the first 50 miles, the first 100, the first 500 miles, the first 1k miles, then at 3k and 5k. Use "break in oil" for the beginning oil changes. Brad Penn makes good oil but you can use any oil of your choice including cheap walmart oil. After the break in of 3-5k whatever you feel is safe, obviously use mobil 1 5w30 or whatever you normally run.
PS: This tip above will help you out more then you know
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I changed my oil in the new motor after 500km and then normally when the oil life monitor said to change it. The oil was fine, and unlike the rest of this place I have lab results to back it up...
Obviously some of the stuff is a little high, but not outrageous by any means.
Obviously some of the stuff is a little high, but not outrageous by any means.
Last edited by denlou; 01-17-2011 at 09:50 PM.