And had a block party. Broke off at both shoulder bolts, the GF was driving when it let loose and she drove it less than 2 miles back home, the engine oil light came on, she shut it down, restarted and it was off. Basically the plastic ground itself into little pieces and got carried through the engine. Pulled the block, split it and here is the damage:

Crank looks ok, hopefully a polish is all it needs


Crank bearing, they are all about the same



Bottom half of crank bearing and NBS, the NBS got hit hard...



Rod bearings, all about the same



balance shaft bushing, she is poocked for sure



oil pump, I was suprised it looked ok but some micro pitting between the gears



More pics to come, haven't decided if this is a rebuild or a nogobalt burning with a part out of what is left.

Any assessments appreciated!

 

Rebuild rebuild rebuild.
Come on man don't through in the towel

 

**** man that sucks. High mileage on the guides?

 

Part out or rebuild with diff stuff...dibs on your pistons/rods

That sucks though man I should change out my timing chain...

 

WoW time to fix it up

 

No, 60k miles and torqued to 89inlbs with some blue loctite.

 

The pistons and rods out of this will be for sale, JE slugs and ZZP rods. If i rebuild I'll have Mr. B custom fit my Wisecos into ductile iron sleeves. I'm going to have swaintech recoat these skirts with PC-9 as they show some classic signs of bearing failure...although this is about as mild as it gets:

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Anything I sell is going to get a professional seal of approval, not interested in shattering other peoples dreams with junky parts.

Anyone know why, of all the bearings to really take a **** it was the one buried deepest in the block?

 

Damn dude I'm sorry, this was the ZZP block still right? And what were you revving to?

 

subd

 

looks like the damage was something else not the black plastic guide. maybe bolt fragments. Good idea to do it right but new bearings and a crank polish if it mic's okay? long shot that looks in the pics to be deep scoring on the journal. Mr. B can help you. Use his stronger guide bolts. where they new bolts?no as you put loctite on them and new ones come with loctite on them unless supplied by Mr. B.
so.
rebuild and enjoy. calibrate your torque wrench to be sure. good luck. don't part out lol

the pan needs to be disassembled the screen will be full of debris. wash with degreaser and water, use a q tip to get inside the pink up screen cover, dot pick at the screen it will hurt it....then compressed air to dry off. gotta be sparkly clean...everything tor the block and the internals, dirt is the enemy of good builds. good luck....

 

Price? Also how much were the wisecos if you don't mind me asking? Pm me lol

 

ZZP gen2 forged build and girdled block....13 months old. Revving to 7250, but hardly ever. Probably going to follow your lead and do a turdblow build, time to put on my queens crown and make some low IAT2s without the rpms.

John- Shoulder bolts didn't break, still on both the block and head...the lower one is grinded slightly from the chain rubbing it so yeah some metal did make it around the block but not much, I'll post up some moar pics. And Mr. Bs upgraded shoulder bolts are already in my pile of 'to be installed' parts, they arrived 2 weeks before this happened.

2OZ-Probably $500 for JEs and ZZP rods, cleaned, recoated and measured by my machinist. Not a bad deal considering it would be $1200+, I'll throw in the rings (and a brand new set of chromed cast ones, which are softer than the JE rings) but really if you are doing this right don't reuse other peoples rings, instead spend the $$$ and go gapless ($200+). Wisecos saved me $150 over new JEs, and you get to work with them to spec it they way you want it.

 

Damn this sucks to see. In for more pics/build process.

 

I need to get me some of these Mr B guide bolts and go over my timing area before I start doing lots of high rev pulls and up the rpm redline.

 

compression of the pistons?

 

88MM JEs, ZZP lists them as 9:1 but I have it on good authority they are 8.5:1 and install to 8.75:1 with the ZZP rods (being .010 longer than stock)

 

Pmd.

 

Dips on rods and pistons

 

Thats what I'm thinking too. Unfortunately, this weekend my car will probably see more rpm than its ever seen. We will see what happens I suppose.

 

Seems to me its cheap insurance to keep things safe and not have a stupid mishap for a couple dollars parts.

 

I'd buy a balance shaft bearing and tensioner and run it.

 

Here is the block shoulder bolt, tried to back it out but it was holding firm...going to leave it for now.



2oz is debating between buying my JEs and having Wiseco build a set, just a comparison of the skirt length between the two. This is important due to the oil squirter clearance issue, one of these companies has clearly seen an ecotec block (JE) and the other has clearly not (Wiseco).



The undersides, notice where the piston skirt makes contact with the squirter nozzle. As I told 2oz, I went so far as to take a blow torch to one squirter and gently finesse it into a hook shape in the hopes of avoiding any further broken off nozzles...after install and realizing that the piston to bore clearance was just plain wrong and that diesel sounding clack was piston slap I pulled the plug, removed the oil pan and found my custom formed squirter nozzle under the baffle thingy. In total, 3 nozzles busted off. I'm guessing the loose bores played a role, when Mr. B does his wet sleeve and I get the right clearance plus a little shave on the skirt and all will be well.

 

And if I had a dune buggy, I'd probably do the exact same thing. Given I dropped $5k on this forged block only 13 months ago, I'm quite grateful it isn't worse.

 

I had Wisco custom make my pistons for my 2.4 stroker. They did an amazing job. And everything well i bent the piston coolers just a lil to be sure there was enough room.

 

not sure why your picture doesnt show the oiler in place. did you remove it?