2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

To SS/SC owners who think it's expensive to convert to turbo

Old May 7, 2007 | 01:51 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Tom in CO
I'm new to the whole turbo vs supercharger thing but here in Colorado the turbo lag is makes the supercharger look really good. For work I drive a 6.0 turbo diesel and it takes a bit for the boost to build to get anywhere.
Actually a turbo in a FWD car makes more sense.
With a supercharger you have almost instant boost, which means when you try and take off from a stop, your car's front end lifts and either your tires go *poof*, or you get to hoppin.
but a supercharger will give you instant boost racing from oh ..say...a 40 mph roll? Which is where the SS/SC seems to kick the most ass.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 03:59 PM
  #27  
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Thanks Dan for the info.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 04:05 PM
  #28  
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Also with a turbo you get no parasitic drag, which means more power with less boost!!
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Old May 7, 2007 | 04:12 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Mattman6
Also with a turbo you get no parasitic drag, which means more power with less boost!!
That too!

But lets please not turn this into a "Turbo vs Supercharger" thread cause god knows there is enough on here as is.

This is for people who are looking for another option for increasing power since their M62 is just not cutting it (which everyone who has been here for atleast a month could see...)
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Old May 7, 2007 | 05:30 PM
  #30  
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2g dsm bov's are plastic. The first gen ones are metal and will hold a lot more boost. And for some other info my brothers have some 1g's laying around and we boost tested them and they leaked around 15psi WITHOUT being crushed. Crush them and you're fine.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 07:10 PM
  #31  
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good w/u thanks for the info!!!
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Old May 7, 2007 | 07:59 PM
  #32  
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350whp.... lol I laugh at that. gonna take more than that to make me happy...

(slowest "fast" car I owned went low 11's ) I need this thing to be up to par with some of my ol smallblock cars.

Turbo comes in Wednesday, guy couldn't make it to day to drop it off. I"ll post up some pics wed night when I get it.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 11:44 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Rodimus_Prime
Those ebay manifolds are absolute crap, to date other than hahn ive yet to see a quality manifold for this motor
Wheel 2 Wheel powertrain makes a manifold as well. Anyone who has ever heard of them knows they build badass LSx motors with turbo setups.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 11:52 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by DWK5150
Wheel 2 Wheel powertrain makes a manifold as well. Anyone who has ever heard of them knows they build badass LSx motors with turbo setups.

Hmm this is good to know for the future. Thanks.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 03:50 PM
  #35  
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Nice Post. Thanks for the help, Adam.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 03:51 PM
  #36  
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nice info
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Old May 8, 2007 | 04:05 PM
  #37  
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Can someone briefly tell me about the difference, and why you would chose one turbo/ compressor over another.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 04:31 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by chevysalesman614
Can someone briefly tell me about the difference, and why you would chose one turbo/ compressor over another.
The difference between a roots and turbo? Or between different turbos?
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Old May 8, 2007 | 05:02 PM
  #39  
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Well you can find alot of information online, but here are the basic reasons to choose one or the other.

Roots style are really the simplest, with the best low rpm output and likely the most reliable of the bunch, but they are the least efficient.

A centrifugal is kinda the middleground. Great high rpm output, pretty efficient, can be easy to maintain. Lacks the low output of the other superchargers though, are usually slightly less reliable than the other options. Centrifugals perform very well though, and ati is often the blower of choice for draggers.

Twin-screw is one of my favorite. Great mid-range power, good low rpm output. More efficient than a roots, but still has the sexy look of it. Not quite as simple as a roots setup, but easier to make big power on.

Turbo is usually the best way to go if you have the cash to get a good setup. With a properly sized, high quality turbo, you can spool pretty quickly, and have great mid-range and top end power. Plus, parasitic loss is MUCH MUCH lower, so you can make quite a bit more power with less stress on the engine. Turbo's can also change boost levels on the fly. Just swapping between tunes and raising the boost pressure can yeild quite a bit more power in just a few minutes or less, which is nice if you want an aggressive car at the track that is pretty tame on the street. Turboes are slightly harder to maintain, and need more attention to keep them running well. Because of the extreme speeds the impeller spins at, you can have issues that i am not going to get into right now if you don't know what you are doing. Turbo setups are also usually more expensive as you have to replace exhaust componenets to feed the turbo along with intake piping unlike just replacing the manifold with the roots/twin screw setups or just intake piping with the centrifugal.

all of the options are gonna be great fun if you set it up right, and all are quite reliable.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by 8cd03gro
Well you can find alot of information online, but here are the basic reasons to choose one or the other.

Roots style are really the simplest, with the best low rpm output and likely the most reliable of the bunch, but they are the least efficient.

A centrifugal is kinda the middleground. Great high rpm output, pretty efficient, can be easy to maintain. Lacks the low output of the other superchargers though, are usually slightly less reliable than the other options. Centrifugals perform very well though, and ati is often the blower of choice for draggers.

Twin-screw is one of my favorite. Great mid-range power, good low rpm output. More efficient than a roots, but still has the sexy look of it. Not quite as simple as a roots setup, but easier to make big power on.

Turbo is usually the best way to go if you have the cash to get a good setup. With a properly sized, high quality turbo, you can spool pretty quickly, and have great mid-range and top end power. Plus, parasitic loss is MUCH MUCH lower, so you can make quite a bit more power with less stress on the engine. Turbo's can also change boost levels on the fly. Just swapping between tunes and raising the boost pressure can yeild quite a bit more power in just a few minutes or less, which is nice if you want an aggressive car at the track that is pretty tame on the street. Turboes are slightly harder to maintain, and need more attention to keep them running well. Because of the extreme speeds the impeller spins at, you can have issues that i am not going to get into right now if you don't know what you are doing. Turbo setups are also usually more expensive as you have to replace exhaust componenets to feed the turbo along with intake piping unlike just replacing the manifold with the roots/twin screw setups or just intake piping with the centrifugal.

all of the options are gonna be great fun if you set it up right, and all are quite reliable.
I will say that you gave a WAY more accurate account on turbochargers than what I've seen on this forum before. I will say that replacing exhaust components besides the manifold itself isn't necessary. A turbocharger will operate whether you have a 2" exhaust or a 4" exhaust but the performance difference is another thing...just clarifying it's not a have to some people think.

As far as maintenance, I will say that they are MUCH less problematic as long as you initially set it up properly. If you do a good clean install in the first place, maintenance from there is just opening your hood every so often looking for any leaks or something obscure...that's it.

But other than that, I agree with that statement.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 05:29 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Mikey851
The difference between a roots and turbo? Or between different turbos?
different turbos, sorry i thought it was clear..
i.e. 60 trim, 73 trim, etc.
when i said turbo/compressor, i meant...
Arent they 2 seperate components that are bolted together, or do they come as a whole. (meaning, you can't mix/ match them)
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Old May 8, 2007 | 05:35 PM
  #42  
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no problem, and like njhk said, if you set any of these up right they will be reliable. Make sure you always have the safety cushion though. With a turbo, get a turbo timer...why not? You may never really have needed it, but it may save you a 1400 dollar headache for 150 bucks.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 05:51 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by chevysalesman614
different turbos, sorry i thought it was clear..
i.e. 60 trim, 73 trim, etc.
when i said turbo/compressor, i meant...
Arent they 2 seperate components that are bolted together, or do they come as a whole. (meaning, you can't mix/ match them)
There are 2 sides of a turbocharger unit (3 sections though)

1. Compressor Housing - Compressor housing basically has a compressor wheel and it does just that, compresses air. After the air is compressed inside the housing, it gets sent through the charge pipe towards the throttle body.

2. Turbing Housing - The turbine housing also has a wheel. When the exhaust flow (or energy) comes out of the cylinder head, it flows pass the turbine wheel and depending on the speed, it will relate in the speed of the compressor wheel. The larger the turbine wheel, the slower the or more energy it will take to move it at a set RPM.

3. The Center Section - The center section contains bearings, the shaft that connects to the turbine wheel and compressor wheel and oil. The oils job is to lubricate (think of how oil works inside an engine). Because the turbocharger turns at tens to sometimes hundreds of thousands of RPMs, friction caused by the bearings needs to be lubricated. Journal bearings are the typical bearing turbo charger (one side has a journal bearing, the other side uses a thrust bearing). Ball bearings cause less friction, hence, require less oil pressure to keep lubricated...but they are more expensive. Ceramic Bearings are even more expensive.

That's basically it.

This will explain trims: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech102.html
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 11:46 PM
  #44  
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Nice.
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 12:49 PM
  #45  
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hey adam, finally killed my el cheapo turbo on my car, **** is blowing out some oil (well more than some lol) bit the bullet and just purchased (about 10 minutes ago)
Turbonetics T3/T04E 60-1 dual ceramic ball bearing. .63 a/r. ($1069.84 shipped) Should fit right where my other one is without major modifications (t3/t04e .57 trim journal bearing). Can't wait for the faster spool and the more beastly top end, plus I should be able to dial back the boost.
Now onto fixing the fueling issues lol
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 08:32 PM
  #46  
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To the top... this is good info for everyone to read.
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 04:33 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by NJHK
I forgot the BOV.

You could buy a 2nd Gen DSM Blow Off Valve cheap...I got mine for $40

Paul, you're a ***** anyways...******* BB Turbochargers lol
The second gen are plastic. The first gen are the way to go. Thats what I'm using.
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 06:36 AM
  #48  
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just to let you all know, it cost LESS to turbo a cobalt then to turbo a honda :P


The cobalt is the cheapest car to turbo that i've ever seen.
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 08:44 AM
  #49  
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Your forgetting the other 1000 you need for hp tuners and a wideband and 240 for injectors with harness

also Garrett GT3071R is 1400 which is a better turbo choice

The cheapest route is the Harrop TVS blower when it comes out, not a turbo
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 11:12 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Rodimus_Prime
Your forgetting the other 1000 you need for hp tuners and a wideband and 240 for injectors with harness

also Garrett GT3071R is 1400 which is a better turbo choice

The cheapest route is the Harrop TVS blower when it comes out, not a turbo
a grand for hptuners?

wtf?!!?!
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