Alright guys being a newbie to the 4 cylinders and having always been a V8 (mainly LS1) guy. I have a few questions for everyone. What would need to be done to my 05 SS SC to get it to run 1/4 times up there with MILDLY modded EVO's, STI's and SRT-4's? Had some guy in an EVO down here talk some **** and give me a thumbs down today while I was driving the cobalt so I think it might be time to start modding the daily driver so I can shut some of these people up without them being able to make the well I have half the cylinders as you do when I beat them in my WS6. Just curious what you guys think. I have already done the airbox and was looking at a header and maybe exaust next then into the Stage kits. What do you guys think can I get up to their level with the cobalt or will I just have to continue to make them look silly in my WS6?

 

i think i like the last statement better!

 

one mod. single sticker. "my other car can whoop your ass"

it all really depends on how stupid you want to get with the car. im not saying your fbody level stupid with a daily driver {stupid = power}

what power levels are you aiming for?

 

I would say, cai, full header back exhaust, 2.8 pulley, injectors and tune.

 

That's the best answer ever!

 

BTW, you're not the only one here from the ls1 world. mine was just a retarded wheel drive lsx vehicle

 

one ls-1 guy to another ls-1 guy, use the WS6 lol. It could be done with the 'balt but you're getting into another whole new world of modding and killing your reliablity from what I read on here.

Sidenote: anyone else notice evo drivers seem to be ******? I haven't met one yet that isn't a dousch.

 

a buddy of mine here in kc has a retarded fast evo. he is actually a cool guy. some of them are cool. they get really cool when you beat em.

 

Yea and alot of them are asshats, this one evo tried to freakin race me in the rain! Just keep blowing off right near my window!

 

I've read this same forum, and I don't see any "major" reliability problems.

From what I've read, people bust their axles because they're revving too high off the line and are inducing major wheel hop - thus giving way to breakage.

And while some people report premature clutch wear, others now have more than 20-30,000 miles on their modded cars and are still running the stock clutch.

I would bet that if we went to a Mustang forum, a Firebird forum, or a Camaro forum, that we would also see a lot of people reporting problems there as well.

That's how cars are ...

 

yea im going 2 agree with making them look silly with ur trans am....who gives a **** if they make fun of ur daily driver....im in the same boat...lol

 

Yeah I use to get people talking **** to me all the time in the WS6 all the time too don't know why but I seem to attract the **** talkers lol. When it was just a cam and N20 car with the 6 speed I had QA1 R-series 90/10 shocks in front and use to run my ET Streets and Skinnys on the street and a quick 3-4K clutch dump and damn near picking the front tires off the ground usually would shut them up. There are a couple EVO's up here in Spokane that are fast as hell one run's 10.8 and the other 11.2 and they are really nice guys. I think most of the ones that are fast are pretty down to earth people from what I have seen its the ones with the 800hp worth of stickers and the neon lights that are the dumbasses. So I guess the WS6 it is but I am still going to mod the Cobalt so whats the best way to get it down into maybe the mid to low 13's I think thats fast enough for a daily driver

 

save your money. come by my house and borrow one of my cars.

 

I had a jackass in an evo pull up next to me at a light he just sat there with his squinty asian eyes looking at me reving his engine....sweet car, dousch driver....

 

**** maybe I should come up and grab the duramax and go EVO huntin tomorrow Matt lol

 

LSX is the best platform to build on. I have one too. But i have done a catless dp, meth injections, 2.8 inch pulley, 60 lb injectors, and tuning on my balt and i run with the cars listed. All this was done for under $1500 too.

 

if your looking for mid to low 13's look at my signature and add some 60#ers and a dual pass endplate as im about to do. ran a 13.8 las time at the track befor the header and d/p so my best guess after the 60#ers i should be somewhere around 13.6

 

if I were you, Id go GM stage 3 kit. Gives u globs of power additive, seems to be more reliable than using too small of a pulley, and is very versatile.

I dont have mine installed yet, but with the nitrous, and the high octane mode u can expect to see 310+ horsepower.

 

use the ws6

 

Alright alright, keeping in mind that you drive a WS6 as your other ride, I will take a stab and say that you know the differences between gauging your 1/4 mile times by the times posted and the MPH posted.

What a good lot of these youngins do not understand is, when your car is posting a 13.4 or 13.5 at 107-108mph, that is ACTUALLY 12 second range with working on 60 foot times and launches. The Cobalt does have alot of potential, and the aftermarket is startin to blow up a bit, especially on here. You just have to decide how much money you want to put into her, what kind of performance you're looking for, and what kind of end result you want.

You can EASILY, do a turbo swap, full exhaust, axles, tires, and maybe some coilovers so that you can stiffen up the suspension for some good launches and be safely over 300whp range and without a doubt into the 12's all day long.

 

2.7 and 60# injectors

I'd go that route first as that'll be where your big power comes from and then do bolt ons and any supporting mods if needed.

hell stage 2 and bolt ons will allow you to beat all of those cars in stock form (from a roll of course) so a 2.7 and bolt ons should be more than enough.

atleast thats what I'd do if I had an LSJ

 

have fun with lightly modded Evos and STi's from a dig

 

Just because we will start off in the back from a dig, doesn't mean we will finish in the back from a dig. Once you do the proper mods, and get the launch down you should do aight in the catching up of some of them, not all but you won't win every race anyways.

 

everybodys talking about breaking axles but other thing you have to worry about breaking is the tranny. if im not mistaking with slicks these trannys have problems holding 300whp. somebody correct me if im wrong though. not sure how much the tranny could handle with 235 street tires but i imagine that on street tires once you get to about 400whp boom the tranny is gone.

 

Th maximum load of a transmission is usually signified by it's torque capacity, not it's hp capacity.

Here are the specs for our SS/SC's Swedish built F35 transmission:

5-Speed FGP F35 Transmission

Type: Transverse front wheel drive, five-speed manual transaxle (Optional L/S differential )
Engine range: 2.0L I-4 supercharged
Maximum engine torque: 200 lb-ft ( 271 Nm)
Maximum gearbox torque: 258 lb-ft ( 350 Nm )
Wheel+Tire Circumference: 2044mm
Gear ratios: MU3

* First: 3.38
* Second: 1.76
* Third: 1.18
* Fourth: 0.89
* Fifth: 0.7
* Reverse: 3.17
* Final Drive Ratio: 4.04

Maximum validated gross vehicle weight 2300 kg
Case material: aluminum
Center distance: 76.5mm
Fluid type: Castrol BOT 0063
Transmission weight: wet: 45 kg ( 99 lb )
Fluid capacity (approximate): 1.7L / 2.0 qt. ( dry )
Power take off: no
Applications: Chevrolet Cobalt SS Supercharged, Saturn ION Redline, Saab 9-3 Turbo

When I was racing Mustangs in the mid 80's, I remember having broken several Borg Warner T-5 trannies. They were the weak link (2nd and 3rd gear synchros not lasting long at all).

When I eventually upgraded the trannie, the next weak link was the 7.5" differential (which Ford eventually fixed by replacing it with the 8.8" rear).

Every car has it's "weak link", it must. And if that weak link is fixed and/or upgraded ....

Then something else becomes the weak link.

LOL