Stage 2 on 154k Drivetrain?
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Stage 2 on 154k Drivetrain?
Now that I have a sport bike in my possession, I have expendable cash for my car again.
My goal is 260hp. I'm hoping maybe to emulate GM Stage 2 with ZZP's Stage 2 kit, downpipe, intake, and tune. Would that possibly net me around 260hp?
Question is, would you guys even do this with my kind of mileage?
I'm not pushing for any high numbers, but my car's been around the block and she shows her age.
Otherwise, I'm content with how the car sits, since she gives me 27-28mpg when I stay out of boost.
My goal is 260hp. I'm hoping maybe to emulate GM Stage 2 with ZZP's Stage 2 kit, downpipe, intake, and tune. Would that possibly net me around 260hp?
Question is, would you guys even do this with my kind of mileage?
I'm not pushing for any high numbers, but my car's been around the block and she shows her age.
Otherwise, I'm content with how the car sits, since she gives me 27-28mpg when I stay out of boost.
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Is a wideband absolutely required for tuning? Same thing with the interceptor.
This would require me to get a 3 pod a pillar and downpipe with wideband bung in it, correct?
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That's what I love about this thing, it does not leak any oil at all. Everything is very clean.
Is a wideband absolutely required for tuning? Same thing with the interceptor.
This would require me to get a 3 pod a pillar and downpipe with wideband bung in it, correct?
Is a wideband absolutely required for tuning? Same thing with the interceptor.
This would require me to get a 3 pod a pillar and downpipe with wideband bung in it, correct?
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its actually one of the most important things to start with when it comes to moding any car. that way you keep an eye on ur afrs and its great when tunnning. same thing goes for your interceptor gauge which tells you if you have knock, you iats etc. and yea that would required a tripple gauge pod since you also have your boost gauge.
I feel like I should grab these parts first before even getting into the stage Kit.
Wideband requires a downpipe with the extra bung hole, right? So it's wideband, front o2, and rear o2?
#12
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Like some of the other guys said, as long as you maintain your car well and tune it properly, you'll be just fine.
As far as gauges, I HEAVILY recommend getting a wideband (it's basically required for tuning) and also an Interceptor gauge, they're a great combo.
I also recommend getting a heat exchanger. It's not totally required for your mods, but it'll help keep your IAT2's lower and the car safer overall.
ZZPerformance - ZZP LSJ S3 Cobalt Heat Exchanger #ZZ-S3HE-COBALT
As far as gauges, I HEAVILY recommend getting a wideband (it's basically required for tuning) and also an Interceptor gauge, they're a great combo.
I also recommend getting a heat exchanger. It's not totally required for your mods, but it'll help keep your IAT2's lower and the car safer overall.
ZZPerformance - ZZP LSJ S3 Cobalt Heat Exchanger #ZZ-S3HE-COBALT
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you forgot pull fuse pump fuse and run car until it dies then do the above.
OP a compression test is as easy as changing plugs and starting the car. You could be low on compression and not even know it.
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just a tip, when you get ur injectors make sure you get them with there harness together. that way you dont have to go through the hassle of finding out what harness fits what injectors etc. then get the pulley and then get either the belt or over sized tentioner. which ever you find, both are fine. then find a good tuner
#19
Do not run the car until it dies, I simply pull the FP test port cover off(little black cap that un screws), wrap a rag around a common screw driver and bleed the fuel pressure off at the schrader valve. Much safer then running your car until it is so lean it dies. But as far as modding the engine with that kind of mileage i agree, as long as maintance has been kept up and you have a wideband at minimum id say go for it! Also assuming the fuel filter has been serviced regularly too?
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Do not run the car until it dies, I simply pull the FP test port cover off(little black cap that un screws), wrap a rag around a common screw driver and bleed the fuel pressure off at the schrader valve. Much safer then running your car until it is so lean it dies. But as far as modding the engine with that kind of mileage i agree, as long as maintance has been kept up and you have a wideband at minimum id say go for it! Also assuming the fuel filter has been serviced regularly too?
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Do not run the car until it dies, I simply pull the FP test port cover off(little black cap that un screws), wrap a rag around a common screw driver and bleed the fuel pressure off at the schrader valve. Much safer then running your car until it is so lean it dies. But as far as modding the engine with that kind of mileage i agree, as long as maintance has been kept up and you have a wideband at minimum id say go for it! Also assuming the fuel filter has been serviced regularly too?
Second owner.
All tune up parts were changed when I got the car, ie fuel filter, plugs, belt, etc.
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Get the intercepter gauge and there wideband hook up and you can do it all on one gauge if needed. I have and works great. I do have one of the two gauge pods that arent sold anymore but you can do with one gauge if you have the intercepter
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