Well.... I installed my plug and play kit on thursday night (2/16). I drove home and couldnt believe the power I was very excited still a little afraid to really get into it. On friday the 17th I had a dyno appt in houston @ 11:15 am at a local speed shop. the numbers i got were as follows. HP 241 and 254tq at the wheels I wasnt really impressed with the mods i have done. Stage 3, injen cai, b&m short shifter and a magna flow 2.5 cat back, but i remember hearing something not quite right at a wot during the dyno run. I wrote intense this weekend to let them know what had happened. On saturday i decided to run my car hard to see wtf, from 0 boost to 15 psi pulls good but... at w.o.t. it started to sputter and I felt a loss of power and boost steadly dropped but lucky me the check engine light came on and I pulled codes at my shop. It was a po101 maf problem. I again wrote intense and let them know. On monday ill have to check the baro readings and make some adjustments but Ill keep you all informed. If I can rid this little hicky It will be one AWESOME kit!!! OH intense has not responded yet because there closed for the weekend but they seem like a bunch of great people. Im sure they'll call me monday or tuesday.

 

congrats bro. mind me asking what u paid for the kit? also, u need to post a video

 

529.00 plus shipping. I need to learn how to post pics and vid's. Still kinda new at this.

 

Did you install your MAF backwards? There should be an arrow on it indicating the direction the air should flow. Check it and make sure it isn't something as simple as that before you start tinkering with other things.

 

boost bypass mod. If you did this already sorry but if you didnt it is a must running the kit. do a search for this i believe it was in the HOW-TO section.

 

BooSSted , I have 4 ASE certificates ( engine, engine performance, brakes and front end and electrical. I've been a technician for several years. Thanks for the input but its something else.

 

so did you do the boost bypass mod freddy???

 

check out this thread....
check it out....

 

remember the code i had was a maf code. this tells the computer how much air is being sucked into the motor and it adjusts fuel accordingly. It also has whats called a baro reading, which lets the computer know if your at sea level, below sea level or above sea level and how far and once again adjust fuel accordingly. If its off even a little bit youll get the results i got. the car runs great except at wide open throtle.

 

Thanks for the helpful hint !!! Im going to try it !! That sounds like my problem.

 

stupid question, dont know if its been asked before....do you have to get stage 2 before 3? can i just buy stage 3 and be set?

 

straight to stage 3 for me.

 

k, ill be ordering mine soon

 

how the hell did you get 241whp with 254wtq?

 

Thats what i was thinking. Thats a lot of torque.

 

that is a **** load of tq for such a small hp rating. You must be burning your tires off !

 

Hopefully everything gets figured out...I have been debating buying this kit...

 

\\No offense but with boasting like that, you should be able to figure it out on your own! Do you have access to a scanner? What is your MAFF numbers, O2's, SC outlet temp, and Inj PW.

Reading your initial post sounds like a newbie post, sorry

 

YES, those numbers do not add up at all!!!! These motors make HP not TQ. Something isn't right with that dyno number. When i hit 270HP, my TQ was 239

 

my car did the same thing when i got the intense kit u have to bypass the boost control valve i would get to 15 psi in third at wot and then it would drop to 12 by pass the boost controll valve and u will boost 17 to 18 psi crazy increase even from the kit with the control valve hooked up to the controll valve not hooked up but carfull my clutch is starting to go and is slipping going into secound... i havea k&n intake TOG header.. and the intense kit and i am burning up my tires right now lol new ones in the spring any ways if u bypass the valve u will be all set

 

This is a seemingly helpful post in dire need of some punctuation.

 

I'm at 243whp and my tq was 201. Granted I was running lean as all hell but Still I couldn't see my tq being higher than 210 maybe. Yeah that guys tq is to high.

 

Actually, these motors make alot of torque..and they make it everywhere in the RPM range. They make more HP than torque because they rev higher than 5250 rpm and at that point, the torque is still increasing and so the HP will continue to climb. The torque is still climbing AT redline in the SS. This is the reason that we could, in theory, raise the rev limiter and get even higher HP numbers because the torque will continue to climb as long as the SC is operating efficiently and the charge air cooler can remove most of the heat from the pressurized air. The reason that the SRT has a higher peak torque number than HP is the fact that the torque peaks way before redline and has fallen off a measurable amount AT redline. It does not climb in a linear fasion like the SS does.

The characteristics of the SS make is a great track car and a great roadcar. The torque is smooth and it has just enough of it to slingshot you out of a turn but not so much that you will be spinning and sliding all over the place like you would with a stock SRT4. The SRT4's engine is more explosive because of how the torque peaks sooner in the powerband which makes it a great drag car...especially if you can master launching it without throwing chunks of rubber everywhere.

-P

P.S. Sorry about the hijack

 

Well.... no offense taken. I do have axcess to 3 scanners 1) snap on 2) mastertek and 3) tech2 -- just thought someone else here has had a similiar problem and could help me cheat alittle. Today is monday and my shop is swamped, I wont have anytime to look at it today and I hate that my car isnt right. I'll figure it out and let you know what i find. Thanks.