I have 60's a 2.6 pulley 2 step colder plugs and full exhaust from the header. My car was dyno tuned at PSI Motorsports, but from the day it left I have been loosing 4-5 pounds of boost when i get into the high rpm range. In 2nd the boost will go down but not near as drastic as 3rd gear above 5000 rpm's. My car did a 14.39 at 102 bone stock with just an intake and the best time i've ran since the kit is a 14.43 at 93??? It also has a stage 4 clutch masters clutch. And suggestions on where I'm loosing boost from? And should I move to a larger pulley maybe? Something like a 2.8

It also has a really bad lag at low rpm...almost like a turbo lag. Is that because the pulley is too small and it takes a while for the fuel to catch up to the small pulley size? Or is it the other way around? I did all the work myself so maybe something is loose or a gasket is bad somewhere. Anything would help. Thanks

 

What are you running for cooling mods?

 

the lag down low is simply because youre well...down low. you can't really accelerate at the bottom of a gear. and the reason you aren't going fast is because its getting waaaaay too hot in there.

 

too much heat...get water/meth inj and a fmhe.

your ic pump may be shot as well.

 

Cooling mods ASAP! You have an adjustable tensioner right?

 

I agree with the above, your making to much heat with that small pully. You need to cool your charge air some way.

 

Mod list?

 

As of now my cooling mods consist of ice in between rounds...i was thinking of buying a 55 wet shot that will do the same thing as meth right? and I wont need retune...I have the bigger tensioner pulley, the adjustable tensioner i got from zzp were a different size thread. The stock bolt didn't go in. I can guarantee you thats not slipping. I'm half surprised i even got it on. I was reading on another guys thread that his TORGQE MANAGEMENT was left on when he tuned his and that was making him loose boost at the top of 3rd as well. Could this be a possible problem? Because my car put down a really weak number on the dyno and i couldn't understand it.
Mod list is as follows: 60's a 2.6, AEM Intake, Bigger T Pulley, 2 step colder plugs, Pacesetter Heder, No Cat, HKS Exhaust, Stage 4 Clutchmasters Clutch.

 

I'd agree with the rest and say that you should get cooling mods as soon as possible. I've seen people blow their engines because of what you are doing now. On youtube that is. The supercharger has it's own efficiency range too.

 

Your IAT2 temps are passing the threshold for boost limit, and then torque management kicks in. Not something you really want to remove, you need to solve the heating issue.

Kevin

 

why wouldnt u wanna remove torque management? i did my car is works awsome

 

Engine or Transmission TQ Management being on will cause the car to pull boost. However, pulling boost is probably the only reason your motor hasn't blown yet. With a 2.6 and no cooling mods your IAT2 are probably well into the 200s on a pull, and probably upwards of 250. Stock, the tune will pull boost after IAT2 reaches 212, which I am sure you are hitting easily. Cooling with ice between pulls is going to do little to nothing. It is pretty much a requirement to run meth with a 2.6. If you add nitrous it will help to lower the IAT2, but the added heat from the nitrous combustion will probably blow the motor.

WIth a header, catless and you aare probably running 3 inch exhaust as well; you will have heavy lag under 4K RPM due to loss of backpressure at low engine speeds.

 

things you MUST DO:

-Dual pass endplate(or single pass if you have the time to send ur mani to ZZP IMO)
-front mount heat exchager
-meth 50/50shot is required(if you went the ZZP single pass route, meth wont be required, but still recommended)

-dont do nitrous, the cost of a n20 kit will easily pay for dual pass, h/e and the met

 

Ok thanks guys. What is the easiest way to remove Torque Management w/out having to buy an HP Tuner? I'm def gonna be doing meth soon because I know how important temps are. I don't run my car hard normally it's only been to the track twice since the pulley and injectors and tune. And that was a 4 month period. What meth system do you guys recommend?

 

There are many different tables in the torque management section, some are good to remove, but the one that limits the boost if the IAT2 gets too hot is not good to remove.

Thats why I said not all torque management is bad, there is no reason to ever remove that since you should never have temps running above that unless something is wrong, in which case you want the protection there to cut the boost.

Kevin

 

you should alos look into possible belt slippage or a blown tensionner

but the heat issue is most likely your problem

 

Ok i understand you now. When it gets to hot it restricts itself...but even at the top of 2nd? That building heat really fast don't you think... I'm def doing what Jn2 said and am going w/ the dual pass plate heat exchanger and meth. I love my car and try to take care of it the best I can. I'm just a 19 year old do it yourselfer trying my best. haha I can guarantee you its not the tensioner. That belt is so tight if it was slipping i would quit life. Do you think the ZZP throttle body spacer is the best way to hook up the meth?

 

To find out whats happening with the heat, you either need an interceptor gauge to tell you the IAT2, or someone with hp tuners to log it for you.

All those mods would help, but to make that much heat in 2nd gear your pump is probably dead/dying.

Kevin

 

2.6" with no cooling mods? You are asking for trouble, whether its now or down the line, it will cause excessive wear/stress on the motor..

Stock pulley is the M62's max efficiency, once you start dropping pulley sizes you are adding boost/power, but you are adding tons of heat as well. You need to compensate for that by cooling that air down before it goes into the combustion chamber. These motors are SOLID however the weakest spot is the pistons. Those pistons start seeing a lot of stress in a situation like that and I wont be surprised if your ringlands let go.

Pistons: First thing to go on my motor when it was my Xs and he was running a 2.7" with no cooling mods. She held up for 15/20k miles before they let go, but it was basically a ticking time bomb. It was bad enough where I had strip the block down and have the cylinders completly resleaved due to damage.

As far as you losing boost, someone please clarify this: If you don't do the boost bypass mod once you go to a smaller pulley, doesnt the computer start pulling boost after a certain RPM? Couldn't this be why hes loosing boost up top?

 

I agree. There is a good chance that the IC pump could be on the fritz as well.


If the car was tuned correctly, the boost limit should have been removed. He states it is "stage 4" so whatever tune/PCM he is using I would guess the boost limit was removed. If you put a lower pulley size on the car with a stock tune it will pull boost due to the torque management settings.

 

When I tune I never remove the IAT2 temperature boost limit for situations like this, I suspect his IAT2s are over 200f in a 3rd gear pull.

Kevin

 

yeah, removing the IAT2 boost limiter is not a good idea. You never know when the IC pump is going to quit on you.

I can guarantee his IAT2 is WELL above 200F by third gear. Like I said before, I would be suprised if he wasn't seeing close to 250F IAT2 with a 2.6 and NO cooling mods at all.

 

Good point, on a hot day at the track I saw 170 by the end of 3rd gear (I rev to 7500 though), on a 2.7 and I have dual pass/HE/Opt B/Meth.

His temps must be deadly hot.

Kevin

 

If your intercooler pump is dead, it will get that hot by the top of second, yes.. Have you checked it?

 

I'm just curious, what is you typical operating temp? daily street driving and performance driving. Just like to hear what you coolant temp is on the motor.