is there any other way to see wat ur iats are without hptuners logs? i dont have any guages for that and was curious wat to look out for. should i just watch the coolant temp?

 

My normal water temp is right around 180. On super hot days it runs 190 at its hottest just driving around normal street driving. And at teh strip at still doesn't go above 190. I Ice the crap out of it. But good news guys. I did the bypass mod...just put a screw in the intake manifold vac line and kept the nipple open. I'm now pulling 18.5 the entire way through 2nd and 3rd. it's an entirely different car! I'm so happy, and i do realize how hot its getting. There is no way i will run my car in the boost anymore until i get the front mount h/e and meth. So i gained 6.5 lbs of boost with a 5 minute mod. I love these forums

 

how to do bypass valve mod?

 

Boost bypass mod is bad. You shouldn't do it unless you have a reason.

You have to have HPtuners, an aeroforce interceptor or some other OBDII scanner to log IAT2.

A typical coolant temp should be around 180F - 190F while driving and can get all the way up to 230F when sitting still (on stock tune the fans don't kick into high speed until 230F).

Ideal IAT2 during a hard run would be around a max of 150F - 160F. Of course, if you can keep it lower you can add more timing which means more power.

 

when stuck in traffic i mean 150 ita2 but when highway cruising i get 95-110 safeish?

 

Your boost bypass mod just took away the safety feature which was put there to save your engine.

Buy a damn aeroforce intercepter gauge ASAP to find out what your IAT2 temps are.

Yes you need a HE and dual pass at the minimum with your mods (plus meth in myh opinion), but your pump is probably shot too.

Intercepter will tell you your IAT2 as well as your knock, and many other things, but those two are what people typically monitor with it.

Kevin

 

When sitting and not moving the IAT2 will get high as well since there is no air flow. I have seen cobalts sitting in traffic have IAT2 as high as 180F. If you are sitting at idle you don't have to worry about it, as soon as you move or if the fans kick on it will drop quick.

Ideally your cruising IAT2 should be 10F - 20F above ambient. If your IAT2 gets higher than that when cruising then your pump is usually out.

Best thing you can do for heatsoak when idling is tune the fans to come on at 192. I know for most people this isn't an option, but if you can I would.

 

I had a reason to do the bypass mod? My car was leaking boost on me big time because my pcm was never tuned for my stage kit. I didn't know that had anything to do with it back then...I baby my car when i drive back and forth to work. I shouldn't have any problems till i get meth dual pass and h/e. I watched it the entire way home today for 20 minutes and it was 95 degrees out when i left work, the water never went above 189. And my fans have never even come close to kicking on high speed. Even at the track. I've never seen my water go above 210. Would a 160 thermostat be good too along with having the fans set to kick on around 190? I'll get on that interceptor gauge as soon as i can. Where is the best place to buy one?

 

Engine coolant temps have nothing (well very little) to do with IATs and vise versa... You could nuke a piston with 200* IATS in a pull and never see the Engine coolant temps rise...

I'd check the pump.. and find a way to log the IATs asap, and until then, hook the bypass back up

 

"Coolant temp" Is your engine coolant temp and is a totally different coolant system than your heat exchanger/intercooler pump system.

It has nothing to do with saving your engine from the heat you are now creating running more boost.

Your IATs are nowhere near related to this either.

Your engine staying in the proper temp range is obviously a good thing, but it doesnt mean you arent producing rediculous amounts of heat with that blower once you step on it. That heat thats being created is being forced into the combustion chamber, where it causes the damage.

 

Guys i do know this. I understand the difference between my water temps and the heat my pulley is making. I appreciate all the help, I only did that mod to make sure my car was going to make proper power when i get my cooling mods and run it hard again. I'm not making any hard pulls until then. I can easily keep my foot out of it I don't have mommy and daddy to pay for my own stupidity. My IATs should remain fine with just normal daily driving to and from work. I'm getting the interceptor asap. Just looked them up. Pretty straight forward. As for the bypass it doesn't really matter if its hooked up or not because i'm not running it in the boost anyways. I onl did one time in 3rd to check if it helped. It was limiting me after i was pulling 15 pounds down to 12...now i know it pulls 18-18.5 no problem. I just wanted to check and make sure. Bottom line...I'm not risking getting my car hot, I can easily wait until my build is done right until i get into the throttle again. I'm just happy I don't have to re-tune anything.

 

Everyone is just trying to warn you is all. You are going to have someone egging you on and you will think "I am going to hit it and show this guy. One time won't hurt." and you are going to blow the pistons out the side of the block. Better to leave the boost solenoid hooked up properly to deter temptation from costing you $4000+ for a new motor and install.

 

This is what made me think otherwise. Were just trying to help..

 

Yeah...Thats true. Well thanks a lot for everybody's advice.