Which is better engine damper or new motor mounts?

 

get enough power over 260 and you wont have to worry about that anymore

 

motor mount from TTR and the tranny inserts front and rear from TTR. You will be very pleased

 

How much vibration from tranny mounts alone can you expect.
Can they be heard from outside the car over stock?

 

Well...actuallly don't even have wheel hope...just spin the tires once I hit about 5k rpm

 

you feel vibration but they wear in. I love feeling like I actually have a car under me now. You cant tell outside the car unless there is something else vibrating like your grille or license plate

 

Thanks for the info time to get some money and order some tranny mounts!

 

you can solve the entire problem with bwoody traction bars, ingalls didnt do **** for me

 

well i've got trans mounts and a motor mount and i still get some wheel hop in first but not nearly as much as it was stock... when i did the transmounts i had alot of vibs but it was reduced within 1,000 miles.... i'm planning on getting some CA bushings and that'll stop it completely

 

anti wheel hop: rotate the motor up 10mm at the back and down 10mm at the front....using your urethane mounts...you can keep the top mounts either side of the engine the same. Its easy to say a little hard to do...doing this puts the axle shaft output from the trans inline with the hub axle center line...for more information go to the GMPD Cobalt build book it is online....

 

thats the dumbest thing ive heard in a long time

 

im using it as my sig

 

well, i kind of see the logic that he was saying though, now that i'm stage 2 with full plumbing and 2.9" pulley i filled the the trans mounts and had JBP control arm bushings, but the bushings went to **** and now i have wheel hop even though my shifting is great and engine movement is still minimal.

When i had a torque forward dual torque damper i still got huge wheel hop, my mounts feel much better being filled with polyurethane.

Thats just my experience though.

On another note about wheel hop, I was told by someone who had rigorously tested the wheel hop in the cobalt SS/SC and that person claimed it was 80% axle recoil and 20% motor mount slop. When you take away motor mount slop, you still have weak axles that twist and release under heavy loading and create wheel hop. GM is supposed to still come out with new axles (same make as the SS/TC except for length and spline) in order to fix this problem. Just like the improved steering knuckle performance upgrade they came out with, but its just been delayed for way too damn long.

Sorry for posting such a huge thing, but i think some people need to know the true reason behind wheelhop. My belief in tests and people's experience tell me this.

Other than stiffer motor mounts helping only 20% of the problem, either stiffer control arms or stiffer axles will fully help this wheel hop dilemma. Bwoody has traction bars that are proven to work, control arm bushings would work if they didn't deteriorate after a year or two of use also (i replaced my control arms with stock ones in anticipation of GM axles in late spring). PowellMotorsports.com inserts delrin bushings and spherical control arm joints in the stock control arms which supposedly get rid of wheel hop as well and excessive CA deflection under load.

Other things that may help, but i don't know if they're proven, would be lighter or smaller diameter wheels, better tires, and maybe stiffening in shock dampening.

 

Anti-wheelhop

 

I had massive wheel hop until the other day I put in the bwoody bars and now its gone completely only other thing i have is the ingalls which alone didnt do much, all i have is tire spin now

 

Hey Lopsided you are 100% I have heard that axle recoil story many times, not sure that it is a factor. The Grand Am cup cars oringally ran Pratt & MIller axle shafts made from Unobtainium at 200 bucks an axle they were/are awesome!

Running the cv joints 17 degrees out of center is a big issue, so thats why rottating the egine helps that; the delrin /spherical joints help the massive outer rib tire wear on the race track...I will rotate my RL enginein the spring/whenever the snow melts which ever comes first and let u know. Re the 260 hp thing, If the tires dont grip hop is probably not an issue ...lol

 

Don't buy mounts, just fill 'em! So much cheaper and it's easier than completely replacing (though it takes a little more time for them to dry).

 

Any cures for wheel spin...I launch from 2500 and when I hit around 5000 they just spin...do the factory tires suck?

 

I can't be 100% cause i was told september of last year then told it was held off til december, and now i'm getting told that it should come out by may or june. I can say that its much more certain than the other times i was told before. I was told that they are basically the same axles as in the 2008 SS/TC except for spline and length so i guess it makes sense for them to come out around the time the SS/TC's. The information i got for the wheel hop fix is that it would include solid mounts (no polyurethane here) and the stiffer axles.

Edit: I think you have the option of getting the mounts and axles separately ofcourse.

I can afford to wait a couple months at least, and i'm hoping they only cost $200 a piece max, that would be so much better than $800 for stage 2 axles on the market (which fore-said person tested and found that it does not reduce wheel hop one bit, just tougher so it might break the trans before the axle if you continue to hop wihtout stopping)

i forget which vendor we were trying to get to manufacture mounts that would rotate the engine slightly, but i don't think the idea was received as a viable option.

 

so the traction bars for the cobalt from bwoody will take away all wheel hop?

anyone?

 

Thats great info man, I hope GM follows through with this

 

Lopsided, thanks for that update; I used UHMW for the SC racing mounts clamped in a welded-in offset alloy insert to the OEM mount; we had to make fast moves reliably and quickly at the time. I now believe that a simpler solution would be UHMW clamped in a 2 or 3 inch steel tube with welded steel plate ears.

Pfadt racing do a Z06 engine mount in a clamped steel tube I purchased this week and its simple and effective and gave us valuable clearance for an external scavenge oil pump.

Taking that lesson and applying it to the engine mount as a solution is something I will work on in the next month. I like UHMW, it has good properties through a wide temperature range (snowmobiles use it) but I would rather use a softer OEM style smaller mount to reduce NVH. Some of the SC folks are complaining about the NVH from aftermarket urethane mounts. Surely if the mount is too soft, then the motor moves to much. I like the idea of an upper engine torque arm, GM use those on a lot of their passenger cars, but the root cause to power hop I beleive always comes back to the axle angle 17 degrees trans to hub- so rotate the engine.

Funny when you think about it. The CTS V has horrendous power hop; my excellent GM p/up truck had it...I had an 4.3 v8 AMG MB that had it awful. Most of these cars mask it with traction control. It really spoils the SC cars so gotta deal with it especially as I want to go to the drag strip this summer and run a time slip!

I checked out the BWoody traction bars i have no clue how they could help. Their rear twisting beam bar cant work IMHO for sure...but then folks put on a tower brace and rave about the handling - the data doesnt support that...is for go or show? Usual disclaimers....

 

Hey guys im a noob, I heard somebody say that ingalls torque damper doesn't stop the wheel hop at all, is this true cuz i was planing on buying 1. anyone.

 

check back in the thread Rodimus Prime said it didnt work...no clue but if it did there would be a stampede! lol

 

Thanks for the good comments.