Suggestions for removing GM Stg2 pulley
Suggestions for removing GM Stg2 pulley
ran into a bit of a problem while removing the GM stage 2 pulley.
turns out that my dealer decided to torque the living hell out of one of the bolts. all 3 were removable except for that one. long story short, ended up stripping, mutilating, and completely raping that bolt trying to remove it (no i did not use a torx bit... doh!).
my question is, how the hell do i go about removing that bolt now?
i got some decent grip on the bolt and actually ended up moving the entire suspension on the car torquing on it and still no go.
turns out that my dealer decided to torque the living hell out of one of the bolts. all 3 were removable except for that one. long story short, ended up stripping, mutilating, and completely raping that bolt trying to remove it (no i did not use a torx bit... doh!).
my question is, how the hell do i go about removing that bolt now?
i got some decent grip on the bolt and actually ended up moving the entire suspension on the car torquing on it and still no go.
They make drill bits that dig into a stripped head so you can back them out, I forget what they're called can someone fill in my blank? I think those would work for him but I can't for the life of me remember what they're called.
Try the WD-40, and a set of vice grips, if enough of te bolt head is exposed,
if that doesnt work, you can aways drill it out as stated
luckily Pulleyboys sells a set of 4 new bolts for ya pretty cheap
if that doesnt work, you can aways drill it out as stated
luckily Pulleyboys sells a set of 4 new bolts for ya pretty cheap
prob is im really lacking any bite with the bits i have ... well... by bits i mean screw driver head :P
.... what i really need is a new method for removing the pulley. i suppose i could try WD40.
the bolts are aluminum.... would an easy out still work?
thx for the input so far
.... what i really need is a new method for removing the pulley. i suppose i could try WD40.
the bolts are aluminum.... would an easy out still work?
thx for the input so far
Originally Posted by SS33
Try the WD-40, and a set of vice grips, if enough of te bolt head is exposed,
if that doesnt work, you can aways drill it out as stated
luckily Pulleyboys sells a set of 4 new bolts for ya pretty cheap
if that doesnt work, you can aways drill it out as stated
luckily Pulleyboys sells a set of 4 new bolts for ya pretty cheap
Originally Posted by MadcanucK
there's 2 bits that come with the kit and there not torx mt-2 why didnt you use them? or did you?
Originally Posted by Chevypowered
PFI also has a dyno so i may check them out as well
i'll give those shops a call. apparently u had better luck than i did finding shops... cant say i had much time to look very hard tho. thx brian
Originally Posted by ReMz
definitely let me know if u talk to em and they can dyno the cobalt
i'll give those shops a call. apparently u had better luck than i did finding shops... cant say i had much time to look very hard tho. thx brian
i'll give those shops a call. apparently u had better luck than i did finding shops... cant say i had much time to look very hard tho. thx brian
Originally Posted by leviticus88
Hey, remz. Where do you live? I might be able to help later.
We need an easy-out for it or something, a proper set of vice grips would work but i didn't have any that would bite correctly on it. We used every tool i have and there's no way it was going to come out that way, we may have to drill it out but one of those shops should also be able to do it.
I worked under a diesel mechanic for a summer, and you havent experienced torque yet until you start messing with impact wrenches and cheater pipes that are taller than i am.
So heres my suggestion, PB-blaster and a cheater pipe. PB-blaster seems to penetrate a little better than WD-40.
So heres my suggestion, PB-blaster and a cheater pipe. PB-blaster seems to penetrate a little better than WD-40.
Originally Posted by LandonElf
I worked under a diesel mechanic for a summer, and you havent experienced torque yet until you start messing with impact wrenches and cheater pipes that are taller than i am.
So heres my suggestion, PB-blaster and a cheater pipe. PB-blaster seems to penetrate a little better than WD-40.
So heres my suggestion, PB-blaster and a cheater pipe. PB-blaster seems to penetrate a little better than WD-40.
The problem was that the dealer stipped the bolt when they over tightened it. Then it became badly stripped as we tried to force it out. Its more of a problem that we can't get a grip on the thing not that we can't turn it out.
Originally Posted by leviticus88
Hey, remz. Where do you live? I might be able to help later.
.... yeah.... i would rather not pay a shop if i dont have to. somebody with the proper tools could def help out
edit:
Originally Posted by Chevypowered
The problem was that the dealer stipped the bolt when they over tightened it. Then it became badly stripped as we tried to force it out. Its more of a problem that we can't get a grip on the thing not that we can't turn it out.
Originally Posted by ReMz
fort collins
.... yeah.... i would rather not pay a shop if i dont have to. somebody with the proper tools could def help out
edit:
lol, badly stripped doesnt even begin to describe it
.... yeah.... i would rather not pay a shop if i dont have to. somebody with the proper tools could def help out
edit:
lol, badly stripped doesnt even begin to describe it
Originally Posted by ssnipes
I vote for the air chisel.... LOL. believe it or not that would either loose it or take the head off. the you may be able to remove the rest by hand or with vise grips.
All of these "suggestions". Here is what you do. You drill off the head. Just the head. Leave the bolt shank in tact. Then remove the pulley, leaving the remainder of the bolt behind. You will now have an exposed shank of the broken bolt. You now have two choices. You can lock the hub in place so it doesn't turn, and try spinning the bolt out with vise grips. Or you can get a screw extractor set. However, its a small shank, so I don't think your going to be able to get that way. If the vise grips don't work, you are looking at taking off the charger and bringing it to a machine shop for removal. Please do not try to drill the shank out of the hub. You will end up destroying it.
Originally Posted by leviticus88
That or dynamite! Either way. lol
^ thx half cent. a little different approach that i really didnt think of. right now i think that would be my best choice.
Originally Posted by ssnipes
I vote for the air chisel.... LOL. believe it or not that would either loose it or take the head off. the you may be able to remove the rest by hand or with vise grips.
Air chisel is what I needed/tried and it worked!
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