2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Those who replaced Timing chain tensioner

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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 07:36 PM
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Those who replaced Timing chain tensioner

I'm replacing my timing chain tensioner on tuesday. I have the instructions from gm (i'm in the asep gm program. its a pretty simple job, but i just figured i would see if anyone who has done one before has any tips for the install.

i got the updated tensioner from crate engine depot too.
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by shutzero
I'm replacing my timing chain tensioner on tuesday. I have the instructions from gm (i'm in the asep gm program. its a pretty simple job, but i just figured i would see if anyone who has done one before has any tips for the install.

i got the updated tensioner from crate engine depot too.
I've got a tensioner ready to go in too. When i pull up the instruction's for replacement , GM service information give's me this, and this is what scared me off.....releasing of the timing chain tensioner after it is installed.



If the timing chain tensioner is not in the compressed state, perform the following steps:
17.1. Remove the piston assembly from the body of the timing chain tensioner by pulling it out.

17.2. Install the J 45027-2 (2) into a vise.

17.3. Install the notch end of the piston assembly into the J 45027-2 (2).

17.4. Using the J 45027-1 (1), turn the ratchet cylinder into the piston.

Inspect the bore of the tensioner body for dirt, debris, and damage. If any damage appears, replace the tensioner. Clean dirt or debris out with a lint free cloth.
Install the compressed piston assembly back into the timing chain tensioner body until it stops at the bottom of the bore. Do not compress the piston assembly against the bottom of the bore. If the piston assembly is compressed against the bottom of the bore, it will activate the tensioner, which will then need to be reset again.
At this point the tensioner should measure approximately 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end. If the tensioner does not read 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end repeat steps 17.1 and 17.4.

Inspect to ensure all dirt and debris is removed from the timing chain tensioner threaded hole in the cylinder head.
Important: Make sure the timing chain tensioner seal is centered throughout the torque procedure to eliminate the possibility of an oil leak.

Install the new timing chain tensioner assembly.
Tighten
Tighten the timing chain tensioner to 75 Nˇm (55 lb ft).

The timing chain tensioner is released by compressing it 2 mm (0.079 in) which will release the locking mechanism in the ratchet. To release the timing chain tensioner, use a suitable tool with a rubber tip on the end. Feed the tool down through the cam drive chest to rest on the cam chain. Then give a sharp jolt diagonally downwards to release the tensioner.
After talking with Whiney 2.0 , who just replaced his , he said basically pull it out and thread the other one in. Now either GM didn't update their manual for the updated Tensioner, or i am gunna screw it up just threading it back in lol.
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 09:44 PM
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Youre supposed to install the tensioner fully compressed and locked, then push on the rear chain/guide to release it(this requires cam cover removal

If you dont do this you run the very real risk of one of two things occuring

1: the tensioner not tensioning at start up and your timing jumping, hilarity and pwnage ensue.

B: you thread the tensioner in extended and wicked over tighten the chain, things wear rapidly and again you get pwn'd.
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Maven
Youre supposed to install the tensioner fully compressed and locked, then push on the rear chain/guide to release it(this requires cam cover removal

If you dont do this you run the very real risk of one of two things occuring

1: the tensioner not tensioning at start up and your timing jumping, hilarity and pwnage ensue.

B: you thread the tensioner in extended and wicked over tighten the chain, things wear rapidly and again you get pwn'd.
ya, i'm fairly sure the tensioner came compressed, but i'll double check.

so basically

-loctite the threads + thread it in compressed all the way (untill the tensioner groove is in the proper position)

-then apply pressure on the chain guide to release the tensioner

-put valve cover back on..and thats it?
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by shutzero
ya, i'm fairly sure the tensioner came compressed, but i'll double check.

so basically

-loctite the threads + thread it in compressed all the way (untill the tensioner groove is in the proper position)

-then apply pressure on the chain guide to release the tensioner

-put valve cover back on..and thats it?
Yes except:

NO Loctite.

ZMake sure you measure the tensioner to see if its compressed, it needs to measure between 2 13/16" - 2 7/8" before you install it.
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 11:48 AM
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ok. heres and old one from a spare motor i have next to my new one from CED. the "updated" tensioner no longer uses an o ring and the unit that applies tension to the chain guide is much much smaller.

im pretty sure the new one is already compressed, but will measure to make sure

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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 12:06 PM
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Correct, new ones no longer use o-ring, different design with a closer fit on oil passage.
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 12:14 PM
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when putting this on in, am i screwing it all the way in, then backing it off to line up the notch?

the gm build book mentioned throwing 567 loctite on it, should i not do that as you mentioned before?
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by shutzero
when putting this on in, am i screwing it all the way in, then backing it off to line up the notch?

the gm build book mentioned throwing 567 loctite on it, should i not do that as you mentioned before?
No, you thread it all the way in and torque it to 55lbft.

567? just paste pipe sealant, I guess if you were really set on doing that you could put a light coating on the threads, but there is no need.
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Maven
No, you thread it all the way in and torque it to 55lbft.

567? just paste pipe sealant, I guess if you were really set on doing that you could put a light coating on the threads, but there is no need.
thanks for the help man, i'll let you know how it turns out
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 01:16 PM
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So you have to take off the valve cover to do this? you can just unbolt / bolt the new one up and be good?
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Sh0nuff
So you have to take off the valve cover to do this? you can just unbolt / bolt the new one up and be good?
you have to take off the valve cover so that when you insert the new tensioner you can position it correctly. the groove on the tensioner has to mate with the chain guide.
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 02:56 PM
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Would you then need to replace the valve cover gasket?
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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replaced mine today. very easy to do. motor runs nice and quiet now, now more chattering from the timing chain.

thanks maven for all the great info!
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 06:34 PM
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no prob.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by shutzero
replaced mine today. very easy to do. motor runs nice and quiet now, now more chattering from the timing chain.

thanks maven for all the great info!
So you popped the valve cover and installed the new tensioner , then give it a liitle hit to release it . Then your done? Did you have to replace the valve cover gasket or were you able to reuse it? Thanks for any help. Ohh btw did the old tensioner look faulty, and did the new one quiet down the motor at startup? thanks.
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rukkee
So you popped the valve cover and installed the new tensioner , then give it a liitle hit to release it . Then your done? Did you have to replace the valve cover gasket or were you able to reuse it? Thanks for any help. Ohh btw did the old tensioner look faulty, and did the new one quiet down the motor at startup? thanks.
pull the valve cover, take out the old tensioner, put the new tensioner in (make sure it is compresed) and line up the notch on the tensioner to fit into the notch on the chain guide. once the 2 have mated or fitted together, thread the tensioner all the way in and torque the bolt. then apply pressure to the rear chain guide to pop the tensioner (it needs a good amount of pressure, took me a few tries to get it) put valve cover back on and start up. the timing chain will slap for about a second untill it gets oil pressure and then as quiet as a mouse.

it is recommended that you change the valve cover gasket, but i was able to re-use the old one without any leaks. if you are careful it can usually be re-used
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 06:47 PM
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i've done a few never on a cobalt though
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