time for a new block
time for a new block
so i guess my boost spiked cause when i tore everything apart i realized my boost controller was missing the bolt and ball and spring....





i hate my life





i hate my life
#1 & #4
definitely had a piece of valve break off, that was rattling around in there, you can tell a piece was broken off inside because it's all over the piston top.
new block definitely. look on ebay. you can get a used LSJ for $1500, and a L61 for about $800
definitely had a piece of valve break off, that was rattling around in there, you can tell a piece was broken off inside because it's all over the piston top.
new block definitely. look on ebay. you can get a used LSJ for $1500, and a L61 for about $800
Last edited by bridfi; Jun 22, 2008 at 06:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
If it were me, i'd be buying the 2.4 block and getting things CUSTOM made for it because believe it or not people, with our cars, things are cheaper when they are custom made....well most things I have experienced anyway
damn I was waiting for those pics. Throw up one of the combustion chamber of cyl 4, I wanna see what damage has been done.
As I said before still have that spare motor laying around if you want to rebuild that. Just gonna owe me a cylinder head though
As I said before still have that spare motor laying around if you want to rebuild that. Just gonna owe me a cylinder head though
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From: Home: Utica, MI Current Location: Mobile, Alabama
Thats also interesting that #1 and #4 both go at the same time. Are you using a return-style setup? You definately had what we (mechanical engineers) call instantaneous failure. Meaning this happened all at once as a result of brittle failure rather than repeated stresses causing the ultimate failure. This tells you that you werent for example running the boost too high over a long period of time, which confirms that you probably had a major spike in pressure which is the only thing common to both of those cylinders during the compression stroke. One more thing about the failure. If you pull the broken pieces out and they appear rough in texture where the break occured thats how you know its instantaneous brittle failure. If you ever get a break that is smooth, chances are you started with a ding, then a crack, then an ultimate failure. Just a little technical info for ya. I do failure analysis for a job, among other things.
LSX RWD S/C conversion
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That will do the trick 
If that break is confined to the same area as RavenSS' engine then it is quite possible the JBP sleeves will actually take care of your problem with the block. That doesn't actually save you money as the install + sleeves are as expensive as a used engine, BUT you will have a much stronger cylinder wall should you have a similar occurance.
If that break is confined to the same area as RavenSS' engine then it is quite possible the JBP sleeves will actually take care of your problem with the block. That doesn't actually save you money as the install + sleeves are as expensive as a used engine, BUT you will have a much stronger cylinder wall should you have a similar occurance.
Senior Member
Joined: 07-30-07
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 0
From: Home: Utica, MI Current Location: Mobile, Alabama
That will do the trick 
If that break is confined to the same area as RavenSS' engine then it is quite possible the JBP sleeves will actually take care of your problem with the block. That doesn't actually save you money as the install + sleeves are as expensive as a used engine, BUT you will have a much stronger cylinder wall should you have a similar occurance.
If that break is confined to the same area as RavenSS' engine then it is quite possible the JBP sleeves will actually take care of your problem with the block. That doesn't actually save you money as the install + sleeves are as expensive as a used engine, BUT you will have a much stronger cylinder wall should you have a similar occurance.
LSX RWD S/C conversion
iTrader: (2)
Joined: 03-25-05
Posts: 10,450
Likes: 277
From: Maple Ridge, BC, Canada
i believe i read the bearing on the rods werent properly checked...i think thats what the problem was...bolt came loose and smacked the head
nah actually that wasnt the problem at all the rod bolts and bearings and clearance was fine i overboosted i mustve spiked cause the main pieces of my boost controller were gone and a piece of the sleve/wall went in to were the piston seats and was hitting the head and the top of the piston damaging both


