2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Torque Dampener and Engine Mounts

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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 09:48 PM
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Torque Dampener and Engine Mounts

Been searching around on the forums a bit and just getting an idea of what mods im gonna want to do once i get my SS. Whats the difference between these two:

Ingalls Stiffy Engine Torque Dampener Chevrolet Cobalt SS 2005-10 2.0L - Sale Today Only!

Turbo Tech Racing Solid Upper Engine Mount Chevy Cobalt/Redline/HHR 2.0/2.2/2.4L Manual Trans

From my understanding both eliminate wheel hop and makes shifting smoother. Why would someone get the torque dampener over the upper engine mount, or vice versa? What do you guys recommend?
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 10:59 PM
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from wut i've heard and some what researched, please someone correct me if i'm wrong. but if u do the rotated trans mounts u don't really need to ingalls or the upper mount to eliminate wheel hop. i would rec. getting the trans mounts and then go from there
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 04:22 PM
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Get the rotated transmission mounts if you want to stop wheel hop. I don't have either of the two you posted but I would go with the rigid motor mount over the tourque dampener.
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 03:23 PM
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I have all 3: Ingalls torque dampner, TTR poly trans mounts, TTR solid engine mount (TTR calls it solid even though it has a poly bushing)

I love them, now when you let of the gas while in gear you dont smash your head through the windshield. I have some vibrations but not bad. Also it solved my problems of breaking exhaust gaskets and flex pipe.
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 03:28 PM
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I have the bwoody engine and rear mount for sale. Brand new wrinkle black, pm if interested. The dampners are a waste IMO
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Lone1305
I have all 3: Ingalls torque dampner, TTR poly trans mounts, TTR solid engine mount (TTR calls it solid even though it has a poly bushing)

I love them, now when you let of the gas while in gear you dont smash your head through the windshield. I have some vibrations but not bad. Also it solved my problems of breaking exhaust gaskets and flex pipe.
I like that snap when lettin off the gas.
And the stiffy is a waste of money if you plan on pushing and speakable power
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 10:51 PM
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I have the rotated mounts from ottperformance and the torque damper.

Wheel hop eliminated.

Sent from my iPhone using CobaltSS
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 10:52 PM
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i have ttr engine mount ottp trans mounts and ingalls torque damper haha overkill flawless VICTORY
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 10:56 PM
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https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/part...mpener-290747/



Using both makes the car shift like it should, no slop, just release the clutch and go. Rotated mount gets rid of wheel hop due to misaligned axles and the stiffy eliminates shift slop and engine movement. Good setup
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Melon
from wut i've heard and some what researched, please someone correct me if i'm wrong. but if u do the rotated trans mounts u don't really need to ingalls or the upper mount to eliminate wheel hop. i would rec. getting the trans mounts and then go from there
the engine mounts are not the route cause off wheel hop

Originally Posted by MyOtherSS
Get the rotated transmission mounts if you want to stop wheel hop. I don't have either of the two you posted but I would go with the rigid motor mount over the tourque dampener.
rotated trans mounts do not completely stop wheel hop

Originally Posted by chris88z24
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/part...mpener-290747/



Using both makes the car shift like it should, no slop, just release the clutch and go. Rotated mount gets rid of wheel hop due to misaligned axles and the stiffy eliminates shift slop and engine movement. Good setup
its a placebo effect your feeling

the ingalls is a waste of time and money

the main cause of wheel hop is from the rear cabs allowing the the control arm to move around under load a set of spherical cabs is what it takes to properly start getting rid of wheel hop the rotated trans mounts will start to work correctly after you get the control arm to stoop moving around (spherical control arm bushings)
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 12:05 PM
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It definitely helps with clutch release engine movement, like I said.
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 01:16 PM
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I did the lower motor/trans mounts with torque solution mounts. no wheel hop at all, all the power goes to the tires. my upper engine mount is still stock and I don't plan on changing it. best part I've bought for my car.


Posted from Cobaltss.net App for Android
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by chris88z24
it definitely helps with clutch release engine movement, like i said.
like you said wow
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
the engine mounts are not the route cause off wheel hop



rotated trans mounts do not completely stop wheel hop



its a placebo effect your feeling

the ingalls is a waste of time and money

the main cause of wheel hop is from the rear cabs allowing the the control arm to move around under load a set of spherical cabs is what it takes to properly start getting rid of wheel hop the rotated trans mounts will start to work correctly after you get the control arm to stoop moving around (spherical control arm bushings)
so then why do people break Transmission cases if the rear CABs are the issue.
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6Rally
so then why do people break Transmission cases if the rear CABs are the issue.
i personaly havent seen any cases broke from wheel hop the cases ive seen broken are from hard acceleration causing the case to flex to the point of the gearsets coming apart and causing the damage now i have seen some broken axels from people being complete dumb asses
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