ok so guess what... she blew agian.... we actually a rod went through the block... so now i am just going to pull the motor and build it from the ground up, inside out. and make sure this will never happen again.

As of now i am on the look out for a new block. pistons, rods, possibly a new crank.

Plan:
-new forged pistons (.20" over 10.0:1 comp.) from intense-racing.com
-new rods.... still on the look out for forged H beam rods (do not want the GM rods)
-take the head and have it fully ported and polished, and a 3 angle valve job.
-cams... still on the look out for a nice set of cams.
-stiffer valve springs
-GM adj. cam gears
-stud the head


questions....

i am pretty sure the 2.2l cobalt is a stroked version of the 2.0.... is the 2.4 even more stroked?

either way... could i get 2.2or2.4 rods and crank and have the car be a 2.2or2.4l

if so could i still use the pistions made for a 2.0 or would i have to have custom ones made?

basically i am looking to not only bore it over but stroke it out more. any help on stroking it or on the parts i am on the look out above would be much appriciated. also open to comments and costructive critisizm

Thanks guys

Ryan

 

you plan on boosting?

 

well its my lsj motor... i will have my supercharger on it... 20-24 psi...

 

drop the compression.. gonna blow it up again

 

should i just stick with the stock 9.5:1 ratio

can anyone help with the the possibilty of stroking it

 

Here ya go now start stroking!

 

You need to do a lot of homework! If you are going to supposedly boost the blower at 20+psi you better drop that compression a lot! 9.5:1 is still pretty high for the HEATON at 20+psi. Plus the fact that the intake manifold is a POS. If I were you... Go talk to Bill Hahn and get the Super 20G turbo kit.

 

you're planning on running the stock blower at 20-24 psi?

why not just get a turbo. but regardless learn more about what you're getting yourself into before you blow your engine again.

 

The OEM 2.2l crank and rods are not as strong as the 2.0. So dont plan on using them. If you can find a eagle crank for the 2.2 (it is discontinued but still for sale someplaces) it does not have the right reluctor ring for the crank sensor. As far and I can tell, no one else makes an aftermarket 2.2L crank. so you would have to have crower or someone make you a custom one.

The 2.0 crank will take 500 hp. so I'd recommend forgetting about stroking and spend the money elsewhere.

I'm running the super20G turbo and 10:1 pistons and crower rods and so far so good.

 

i see future rebuilds in you young skywalker

 

it is the M62 blower, that was ported out and rebuilt. i have been running around 20psi through it for almost 5,000 miles. i do know about all the heating issues... which is why i might drop from the 2.6 to the 2.7 pulley. but i do run methanol, have the dual bypass vavle and getting the front mount heat exchanger.

i plan on leaving my car supercharged... its just the way i want to go....

 

i can give you a great deal on a blueprinted motor pm me if interested

 

i know whati have to do to build it to not blow up agian... i am just researching the idea of stroking it....

if i did stroke it i would not use stock 2.2l crank and rods... i would go after market but i want to see if it will even work

i am sure this will be the last one.... but thanks...

if want feel free to PM me your offer

 

how about a more effiecient supercharger? run less boost, put out less heat, and make more power.

 

i would be down for that but... the prices for those are pretty high... now i know what your going to say.."but you are going to dump more money into the internals" yes that is true BUT i have to because all my internals are fucked and need to be replaced anyway, why repalce them for stock. if i am going to have the motor out on a stand i am going to build the motor right. after i am done building the bottom end and then having the head fully done up i wont have the money for the different supercharger. i might just step back to a 2.7 pulley.... and let it boost fully. right now i have the 2.6 but i have the computer limiting the boost at about 20 psi.

i have done a little more research on my project last night and realized that stroking it wont be that great of an idea. the longer the stroke the hard it will be to acheve higher RPMs.... and other problems that we have already discused.

So now i am going to just build up the bottome end with upgrade parts for the LSJ. and get .20 over pistons with the factory comp ratio, 9.5:1

if anyone can help me find a good set of connecting rods and help me pick out a cam set that would be great. but until then i will be looking around on my own.

 

If you are dead set on sticking with the M62, I would go 10:1. Anything else stay stock CR. I've built quite a few 10:1 M62 cars, and with a nice set of cams, they run strong.

 

the only thing that makes me nervous about lifting the CR is the amount of boost i will be pushing

 

Something like the 272 grind will reduce effective compression with overlap.

I ran a 2.5" pulley on my M62 with 10:1 pistons and stock cams. Car ran great. Another one is running the TVS pushing about 24lbs of air with 10:1 and 272 cams. A third car I worked on had a 2.6 pulley, 10:1s, headwork, and 272s, also ran awesome.

 

what did you do to stop over heating

 

I have crower rods in mine. part # B93731b-4. These are listed for 2.0/2.2 engines so they are not a direct replacement because they are longer and the pin diameter is different. So I had to go with a custom piston.

JBP sells a replacement rod but from what I understand it is just rebranded pauter rod. So to save on cost I'd go directly to pauter if you want a direct replacement rod.

 

If he goes directly to Pauter he will wait 6 weeks for rods as they will then be considered "custom rods" as Pauter only makes the JBP ones when JBP orders them.
Better order now.

 

Wasn't a major issue. My car had stock exhaust manifold, stock downpipe. Also had stock intake manifold with no cooling mods, no dual pass, no heat exchanger.

 

Yeah, it is just whether it is worth $300 more to have them right away. I waited 8 weeks for custom pistons from Arias. that was annoying.

 

^^This. If you drop compression ratio you will take a hit on torque. Stock compression ratio is low enough to run up to 25psi and respectable timing on pump gas.
Only lift it if you are planning on swapping cams in the future. Stay stock otherwise.

 

well part of the build is cams... what cams to get i am not sure yet... but while the motor is out and the head is getting work done, i will put in a set of cams

oh and can i ask who the guy in your sig is refuring to haha