Stage 3 and you break it loose often? From a roll in 2end? I cant break 2end loose from a roll unless I'm on shitty tires. Stage 3 is only like 5 or 6 whp more than stage 2 without the ho mode or nitrous, your sig says you dont have an aftermarket exaust either, I'd figure I've got around the same power as you... unless your on ho mode. I have no problems AT ALL with traction in 2end from a roll, I only spin if I give'r in 1st then powershift into 2end without letting it grip first. I'm trying to figure out a question seriously, around 25-30mph, from a 2end gear roll, with traction mods and decent tires what kind of power could I make and still not break the tires loose?

I dont know what direction to be planning for a build, and I dont want to have so much power that its overkill for my needs. That line to me is breaking the tires loose from a 25-30mph roll in 2end. If anyone has any real answers to that question let me know, thanks.

 

throttle control in first and second thats what i do helps tremendously

 

Yeah, backing off the throttle in 1st and 2nd will help. Along with better tires. Spinning is a pure factor of friction.

 

listen, I DONT have a problem with traction in 2end. 250whp WILL NOT break traction in second from a 30 roll. I want to know how much whp I can make before it does beacome a problem! Now I apreciate everyone wanting to help, but you guys aren't toutching on my real question. How much whp will break the tires loose from a 30mph roll?

 

it really depends on your tires... i dont have an exact number... but i think youll have a better chance of your clutch slipping over your tires...

 

99.9% of that depends on what tires, even one brand street tire to the next will change that.

 

well it's just I know that people with 400+ who can spin it from a 3rd gear roll if I'm not mistaken(maybe I am). I don't want that kind of power, as cool as it is it's impractical to me. To me, a dd stops being practical when you start spinning from 25- 30mph roll in second. Money isn't too much of a problem and I can afford a clutch and whatever traction mods would help the most along with whatever parts I chose for making power. I can't price out parts and plan my build till I know what kind of power I want to put down. I don't wanna be able to break the tires loose in second gear from
A 25 or 30 roll.

 

you don't have 250whp bro.

 

400+ from the LSJ? Maybe 1 or 2 members... Maybe

The supercharger with a small pulley and a lot of mods it take a lot of money to hit over 300 WHP... Let alone 400 WHP.

 

Okay sorry no from a roll like that I wont break traction...but even when im easy in first and stomp 2nd it will spin most of the time.. Also stage 3 + 2.9 pulley 7250redline I'd say I am layin down more power but thats debateable ofcourse......if you want traction from a roll in 2nd gear id say around 270whp anything over that and ull break it....but if you are going to spend the money and get that power why not just get some mounts?


As for TTR up there Powell also offers these in a solid mount.

 

i need some mounts....bad..all i do is spin when i launch

 

I wouldn't trade all the wheelspin in the world for anything...wheelspin is priceless...wheelhop sucks

Having said that...to the respondent, if this is a daily driver just get to the point where you're wheelhop becomes wheelspin (it's a little over 250) and you'll be happy. Wheelspin doesn't cause the same damage as the hop; usually it will be axle related which isn't a 1000 dollar tranny swap (around 250 for oem axles used).

 

good advice and to be frank its not seriously possible to quote an hp number as it is 1. tire dependent and 2. tire dependent and 3. axle hop kills lol

 

As others have said... it's not easy to estimate what kind of power you'll be capable of putting down in 2nd gear from a 25-30 mph hour roll without breaking traction. Too many variables..

I want to know WHY you are doing a 25 mph hour roll in 2nd......
If you're racing, are you aiming to lose? Don't do a 25 mph roll with your mods. Do a 20 or less in first, and a 40-50 in second..

 

I'd roll race from that speed beacuse I only have around a half mile to race around here,lol. More than enough from a dig, but if we roll race it needs to be a slow roll to start. The highways have too many cops and the fine is 10 grand and 1 year suspension, so on the rare occasions we do race we do it on a straight road in the middle of nowhere. And yes as someone said I`m probably not making 250whp on most dynos, but I`m basing my /`s of a local guy who dynočd at the dyno near me that I`ll most likely be doing my tuning at. He made 246whp with stage 2 and a cai, and 260whp with stg2,cai, headers and a dp. But thats not the point. I`m not sure if I want to twincharge my car next year, or just do a small turbo build(piece the parts together, not an off-the-shelf kit) , or if either of those would make too much power for my goals I`ll just build my car similar to blown-4-banger`s build. If it turns out that even thats gonna break traction too easy I`ll just say **** it, only run stage 3 and a 50 shot and spend my money on my other toy( 95 zx-7) or buy myself a new toy (maybe a quad, buddy near me is selling a banshee with a fully build race motor for 3600)

 

the guy that had my car before me ran 242whp he said it was underrated but i have no problem spinning them at 35-50 depending on what i'm doing though i do only have about 1/8th tread left

 

yeah, I have decent tires and it's never a problem in second. Maybe I have decent tires? It wasn't a problem with stock tires either though. In a straight line that is, on a turn they can slip easy.

 

3600$ for a Banshee is toooo much

 

Yeah? I see them going 2500 with no mods, and this guy is saying he payed a few thoulsand in the motor alone, with a built bottom end with forged internals, a port and polish, oversize valves, cams, a race carb and a bunch of aftermarket suspension parts. He hits a little over 100mph with medium jets in the carbs. Maybe things are more expensive down in New Brunswick where this is selling, what are they going for in your part of ontario? I'm not sure between getting either a 400cc racing quad, or a 500cc or bigger 4x4 quad. I know I was checking the prices near Ottawa and Petawawa and the prices werent much cheaper... If you know of better deals hook me up, lol.

 

i figured i would post here instead of making a new thread. When I shift, I get the "false knock". I was wondering if there was something that could prevent that because I just hate seeing the .3 or .7 degrees of knock when shifting. I know its normal, but I don't like it lol I want that gauge to always say 0.0 lol.

What would help prevent it. I am thinking since I already have ingalls td, and eibach sportlines *massive drop on my car, looks like coilovers i swear*, that I would go with the tranny mounts, rear sway bar to help with body roll in turns, and then possibly traction bars. However if the tranny mounts alone will take away the false knock issue on shifting, I will just grab those. Let me know, thanks.

 

Well it's a like a car if anything the mods de value it on resale. It all depends what you want a I guess if you want a Banshee with all that exact stuff maybe thats the deal for you. Personally I would pay a bit more and get a used Lt r 450 or YFZ450 and buy it stock. They handle way better and are more reliable. I dont know any crazy deals right now I can let you know though. My family owns a motorcycle,atv, snowmobile dealership

 

hey midnight you don't know this but here is a tip, when it comes to moto stuff Stiner really, i mean REALLY knows his s**t and may even be able to steer you to used stuff worth while deals

 

I'm gonna need to wait a few months, I did my budget after I finished buying everything I got in the summer and I'll have around 3500 by christmas to spend on whatever, and another 3500 by march cuz I'm getting a retro-active pay increase,lol. My wife grew up with quads at home, so she's been wanting me to get one for a while. I'd rather pay cash than get a loan beacuse its not the easiest to get credit at 20.