True Header
#52
those are the exact reasons why I went with the JBP header:
T304 Stainless Steel Flanges
- T304 O2 Bung
- T304 O2 WideBand-Bung (optional)
- T304 O2 Bung Plug (optional)
- Electropolished Finish (optional)
- Header Wrap for #2 primary
- Computer Tuned primaries 1⅝"
- T304 14 gauge Tube construction
- 3.0" T304 Stainless Formed Collector
- Bolts straight to stock down pipe
- Includes all mounting hardware
- Includes new stainles steel bolts
Thanks Skykapp
and I got mine polished, it looks great
T304 Stainless Steel Flanges
- T304 O2 Bung
- T304 O2 WideBand-Bung (optional)
- T304 O2 Bung Plug (optional)
- Electropolished Finish (optional)
- Header Wrap for #2 primary
- Computer Tuned primaries 1⅝"
- T304 14 gauge Tube construction
- 3.0" T304 Stainless Formed Collector
- Bolts straight to stock down pipe
- Includes all mounting hardware
- Includes new stainles steel bolts
Thanks Skykapp
and I got mine polished, it looks great
#55
those are the exact reasons why I went with the JBP header:
T304 Stainless Steel Flanges
- T304 O2 Bung
- T304 O2 WideBand-Bung (optional)
- T304 O2 Bung Plug (optional)
- Electropolished Finish (optional)
- Header Wrap for #2 primary
- Computer Tuned primaries 1⅝"
- T304 14 gauge Tube construction
- 3.0" T304 Stainless Formed Collector
- Bolts straight to stock down pipe
- Includes all mounting hardware
- Includes new stainles steel bolts
Thanks Skykapp
and I got mine polished, it looks great
T304 Stainless Steel Flanges
- T304 O2 Bung
- T304 O2 WideBand-Bung (optional)
- T304 O2 Bung Plug (optional)
- Electropolished Finish (optional)
- Header Wrap for #2 primary
- Computer Tuned primaries 1⅝"
- T304 14 gauge Tube construction
- 3.0" T304 Stainless Formed Collector
- Bolts straight to stock down pipe
- Includes all mounting hardware
- Includes new stainles steel bolts
Thanks Skykapp
and I got mine polished, it looks great
16 gauge 304 stainless steel TIG welded headers with a direct to the exhaust path will always out perform snakes having sex in both HP and lifespan.
There are MothaF'ing Snakes on your MothaF'ing header -Snakes on the Plane spoof
No see this was a subtle remark about specific over-engineered designs. Hey, Ill eat my words and be the first one to say, Get that header! when it makes more power than the SCdyne or GMPP manifold, but Im confident that will never happen.
Here are a few reasons that it is not a design based on performance:
1. 1.675 Tubing @ 14 Gauge has an ID of 1.51 The exit area of the LSJ head port is larger than the exit area of a 1.51 tube. This size is more in line with the L61 not the LSJ.
2. The total bend angle of the tube exceeds 180 degrees causing excessive restriction in the flow path.
3. The radii of the bends are irregular including some less than 1D salami cuts.
4. The formed collector is too large compared to the volume of primaries causing them to just dump onto a large cavity of over 20% larger exit area. (even Corky Bell books say that)
5. Many of the primaries take very aggressive turn just outside of the exhaust port causing a massive decrease in velocity and they do the same at the collector.
6. It's expensive to build, difficult to duplicate and costs too much money.
How I see it is as follows:
Best OEM profile: GMPP manifold
Best Shorty: SCdyne (miter collector 15 dyno proven HP w/ cat)
Best Mid Length: SMS (miter collector smooth bends dyno proven power)
Best Full length : Weapon-R but only by default (too complex & long for LSJ, but probably nice for LE5/L61)
#58
Senior Member
No see I said:
16 gauge 304 stainless steel TIG welded headers with a direct to the exhaust path will always out perform snakes having sex in both HP and lifespan.
There are MothaF'ing Snakes on your MothaF'ing header -Snakes on the Plane spoof
No see this was a subtle remark about specific over-engineered designs. Hey, Ill eat my words and be the first one to say, Get that header! when it makes more power than the SCdyne or GMPP manifold, but Im confident that will never happen.
Here are a few reasons that it is not a design based on performance:
1. 1.675 Tubing @ 14 Gauge has an ID of 1.51 The exit area of the LSJ head port is larger than the exit area of a 1.51 tube. This size is more in line with the L61 not the LSJ.
2. The total bend angle of the tube exceeds 180 degrees causing excessive restriction in the flow path.
3. The radii of the bends are irregular including some less than 1D salami cuts.
4. The formed collector is too large compared to the volume of primaries causing them to just dump onto a large cavity of over 20% larger exit area. (even Corky Bell books say that)
5. Many of the primaries take very aggressive turn just outside of the exhaust port causing a massive decrease in velocity and they do the same at the collector.
6. It's expensive to build, difficult to duplicate and costs too much money.
How I see it is as follows:
Best OEM profile: GMPP manifold
Best Shorty: SCdyne (miter collector 15 dyno proven HP w/ cat)
Best Mid Length: SMS (miter collector smooth bends dyno proven power)
Best Full length : Weapon-R but only by default (too complex & long for LSJ, but probably nice for LE5/L61)
16 gauge 304 stainless steel TIG welded headers with a direct to the exhaust path will always out perform snakes having sex in both HP and lifespan.
There are MothaF'ing Snakes on your MothaF'ing header -Snakes on the Plane spoof
No see this was a subtle remark about specific over-engineered designs. Hey, Ill eat my words and be the first one to say, Get that header! when it makes more power than the SCdyne or GMPP manifold, but Im confident that will never happen.
Here are a few reasons that it is not a design based on performance:
1. 1.675 Tubing @ 14 Gauge has an ID of 1.51 The exit area of the LSJ head port is larger than the exit area of a 1.51 tube. This size is more in line with the L61 not the LSJ.
2. The total bend angle of the tube exceeds 180 degrees causing excessive restriction in the flow path.
3. The radii of the bends are irregular including some less than 1D salami cuts.
4. The formed collector is too large compared to the volume of primaries causing them to just dump onto a large cavity of over 20% larger exit area. (even Corky Bell books say that)
5. Many of the primaries take very aggressive turn just outside of the exhaust port causing a massive decrease in velocity and they do the same at the collector.
6. It's expensive to build, difficult to duplicate and costs too much money.
How I see it is as follows:
Best OEM profile: GMPP manifold
Best Shorty: SCdyne (miter collector 15 dyno proven HP w/ cat)
Best Mid Length: SMS (miter collector smooth bends dyno proven power)
Best Full length : Weapon-R but only by default (too complex & long for LSJ, but probably nice for LE5/L61)
#63
Just -just- just 2nd to the SMS mid length. I like the overall design and the length of primaries are actually right on, but it's all for not with a formed collector. Miter cut collectors are time consuming and difficult to get right in production, but always produce more power.
Personally If I was to make a mid length header it would look a lot like this, but would have a 4-1 miter-cut merge collector of 1.75" 16 gauge tubing to a 2.5" outlet. That in turn would have a 2.5" to 3" transition of 3" long and a minimum of 4" of 3" tube before the cat face.
That's about $300 more worth of work, but also would probably result in a 20+ HP producing header.
Personally If I was to make a mid length header it would look a lot like this, but would have a 4-1 miter-cut merge collector of 1.75" 16 gauge tubing to a 2.5" outlet. That in turn would have a 2.5" to 3" transition of 3" long and a minimum of 4" of 3" tube before the cat face.
That's about $300 more worth of work, but also would probably result in a 20+ HP producing header.
#65
Senior Member
Just -just- just 2nd to the SMS mid length. I like the overall design and the length of primaries are actually right on, but it's all for not with a formed collector. Miter cut collectors are time consuming and difficult to get right in production, but always produce more power.
Personally If I was to make a mid length header it would look a lot like this, but would have a 4-1 miter-cut merge collector of 1.75" 16 gauge tubing to a 2.5" outlet. That in turn would have a 2.5" to 3" transition of 3" long and a minimum of 4" of 3" tube before the cat face.
That's about $300 more worth of work, but also would probably result in a 20+ HP producing header.
Personally If I was to make a mid length header it would look a lot like this, but would have a 4-1 miter-cut merge collector of 1.75" 16 gauge tubing to a 2.5" outlet. That in turn would have a 2.5" to 3" transition of 3" long and a minimum of 4" of 3" tube before the cat face.
That's about $300 more worth of work, but also would probably result in a 20+ HP producing header.
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