No doubt I wish u the best and really hope this works out!

 

So you have the stage 2 cams without tuning? i have 60lb injecotrs on a 2.9 pulley. just so i can build. BUT. im not going to put a cam in my car and make it just enought o blow the pistons. and waste the labor on cams. Ill just blow the pistons and then do cams while im at it. right.

 

Your just joking right? Because when you blow a piston a rod will likely come out the side of your block and you will be buying either another complete engine or a block and all kinds of parts But your just joking right

 

no lol actually im not. so if i mess up the pistons. its not as simple as buying new ones from Intense and putting them in. Thinking it will cost about $700 for pistons and $2000 for install and then im good to go. if its going to go through the block that makes me realize thats gonna be about a $5000 mistake. rightttttttt? i dontk now much. so lets talk a little more for me to learn

 

aaahhhh now that fast and the furious saying somes back to me. " now me and the mad scientist has to rip apart the block and replace the piston rings he fried" lol

 

Look at BrainMP5T's video. Then you will see the results of a piston letting loose.

 

got a link?

 

just envision a metal pipe stickibg out the side of your engine, oil and fluids everywhere and your wallet is empty. that's usually what happens when you throw a rod.

 

just fix it after something has gone wrong is never a good idea with anything, not for a car, or anything else in life.

the key is to build it strong enough before you do the power adder.

I did my cams long before the stage kits cam out, probably before 90% of CAI were out lol

so I did not know that the rev, limiter would be increased, which is why I stuck with the stock valve springs. ( that and we didn't expect to see so much gains from the cams that I would require tuning ).

so before I do tuning I'm getting dual coil valve spring installed so that I can safely run my car. I see that you have a stage 2 reflash and other things done, so you have at least a 7000RPM limit. so I would reqomend you get your valve springs changed when you do cams.

as for relating the cams to the pistons your looking at the complete oposit end of the engine.

to change the cams & springs you work on the top of the engine. to change the pistons, you have to pull them out of the bottom of the engine.

hope that helps, and remember preventative measures are better and far cheaper, then repairs

 

well if i hit 260 whp when i dyno tomorrow. that would mean it would take about the stage 2 cams to blow my pistons more than likely

 

I don't think the pistons are just going to go on you just because your around 300HP.

the only reason people are saying to change them at that point is because of the 300+ build book does. no one that I know of really know the failing point.

people are just making a logical assumption because of the book.

right now I'm debating on what size pulley I should get so that I'm safe, I'm thinking with my 7500RPM limit that maybe I should get a larger pulley then the 2.8"

 

^^^It's not that anyone thinks they'll go at 300hp per se. But the fact that if you want to build your motor for more than 300hp, it's much cheaper to do it right and get pistons first.

Installing pistons is alot more fun, and much cheaper than pulling chunks of motor out of your hood, tires, fenders, etc etc.

The risks far outweigh the rewards on this one.
But if you're aiming for just 300, and a conservative tune,
I doubt the pistons would ever go.

 

horse power dosent kill pistons what kills pistons is detonation and to many rpms i built a ford ranger and put a svo mustang engine in it 2.3 ltr turbo charged i ran 30 lbs of boost on the engine with stock internals but i never spun the engine past 5500 and it is still running today forged pistons will take alot more abuse then cast or hyper

john

 

very true,,, too bad these cars would be worthless with any lower of a redline

 

when pistons go, heads go, valves go as well, the piston chuncks like to travel from one cylinder to another and it will take that ou too...

just don't detonate, and any hp is ok as long as you keep your piston speeds bellow 4500ft/min

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/pictures-videos-64/mp5t-video-18014/

 

you know guys it is not that you hit 300 HP and then kaboom. you have to consider everything has a breaking point. 2.2L dodge turbo the weak point was head gasket so it blew with extreme boost.

when increasing the HP in the LSJ we want reliability too. the weak point has been identified by GM as being the pistons at 300HP and the head gasket at 400hp. GM has piston sets and head gaskets for our car to keep it reliable. that is not saying that it will blow up if you dont head their warniing. It will have a shorter engine life though. some will be luckier with their cast pistons vs someone else cause they have the better cast on that particular day. Forged is cut metal the cosistency in strength and quality is higher due to this. good luck all. if you do go beyond 300 HP. As a side note though if you want to go to higher HP pistons are a great way to achieve that. so replace your pistons for performance and reliability.