2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Upgraded Heat Exchanger question

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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 09:35 PM
  #26  
ebristol's Avatar
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From: WI
Originally Posted by qwikredline
ebristol whatever h/e you get you just gotta buy a second saturn coolant reservoir bottle and route it to ur h/e with a restrictor in the bleed line. if there is any air in the system you can have an h/e the size of a mack truck radiator and it wont help
I might have other plans for that empty space.

I like the cx racing h/e. I should go nice with my single pass IM.

did you get my email address?
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 10:14 PM
  #27  
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From: texas
Originally Posted by ebristol
Close. Filling the cx racing h/e at the cap would be the quickest way to get started purging the system. But the h/e cap is not at the hightest point in the cooling system so you would still need to bleed out the system just like the cobra h/e.

This brings up another good question.

For guys running the CX Racing H/E, do you cap off the H/E overflow port or do you tie it into the system using an overflow tank or something like that?

hey thanks for the info on that.......any good ideas or easy ways to purge the system???
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 10:37 PM
  #28  
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From: Port Perry Ontario
Originally Posted by nuttzzy
hey thanks for the info on that.......any good ideas or easy ways to purge the system???
easy, GM wrote the book for you. Here on this forum it is called option B. YOu put a 1/8 pipe fitting 1/4 nipple into the threaded hole that has a blank plug on the top of the stock aftercooler. On a redline you need a 90 deg fitting, on a Cobalt, a straight fitting. You run a 1/4 id hose,(with a tiny /.040 restrictor in it , this restrictor is best located at the aftercooler 1/8 pipe fitting) all the way to a new Saturn coolant recovery bottle located on the passenger side strut tower...then you replumb the cooling lines (preferably with a dual pass laminova side cover) and then you can watch the air purge out the purge line into the coolant reservoir. You eliminate the dinky little stock reservoir in the front of the supercharger...if you insist on keeping the car 100% stock, go spend 75 bucks on an "airlift" brand name vacuum coolant system leak check and refill system. Thats the best way to purge the air out, short of putting in an Option B system with dual pass end plate. Buy it one of the vendors here, turbo tech or ZZP....after that you can get into esoteric discussions about dual pass and single pass laminova, and extra heat exchangers. I run a big griffin h/e in the stock location, Ralliartist runs a big CR racing one, and Lopsided Jester I think runs a cobra...all do the job...you have to measure the results to know which one works the best, but unless you get the air out , you should just stay on the porch....

Originally Posted by ebristol
I might have other plans for that empty space.

I like the cx racing h/e. I should go nice with my single pass IM.

did you get my email address?
yeah man sent you pics, upgraded the plumbing today i did it backwards on sunday i am a goof works good.

Last edited by qwikredline; Apr 14, 2008 at 10:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 10:44 PM
  #29  
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From: Bohemia, New York, Long Island




some nice welds and that **** is almost strong enough to tow off of lol
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 10:44 PM
  #30  
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You guys are great. I'm gonna get my front mount soon and I'll be here more often to read up some more
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 10:56 PM
  #31  
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I was thinking (dangerous) that I might do a small production run of laminova inlet kits set up for single pass on an exchange basis, but its a lot of work and work costs money so maybe its a dumb idea...the thought and testing that goes into this stuff is silly and its hard to make a buck on it...even 10% margins are hard to get to.

and then you gotta buy a reservoir, thats what 30-40 bucks, and if you did a dual pass end plate thats 260 bucks, then there are brackets and hoses, Y and T fittings, restrictor and labour to install proper fabrication and stainless radiator screeds dont even think about using tool time strapping and sheet metal screws The single pass Laminova takes some extensive TIG welding thats not an easy, cheap task; the plumbing is such a pain I ran rubber moulding along the front tie bar i cut my fingers so many times on the redline... so now that I have written this I have decided it that it isnot a good idea... good luck ebristol, nice part of the country you live in. Wisconsin: Kenseth. Kulwicki. Favre. Milwaukee mile...Road America....Harley Davidson....whats not to like...
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 11:14 PM
  #32  
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From: WI
Originally Posted by qwikredline
I was thinking (dangerous) that I might do a small production run of laminova inlet kits set up for single pass on an exchange basis, but its a lot of work and work costs money so maybe its a dumb idea...the thought and testing that goes into this stuff is silly and its hard to make a buck on it...even 10% margins are hard to get to.
I think you have just committed yourself. I just bought an IM. Should I have them send it to you? jk

Yeah its a lot of work and no one will appreaciate it and they wont want to pay more then $1 over the cost of parts.

Originally Posted by qwikredline
good luck ebristol, nice part of the country you live in. Wisconsin: Kenseth. Kulwicki. Favre. Milwaukee mile...Road America....Harley Davidson....whats not to like...
Its not bad. 3 out of the 4 season are nice. But I hate putting the big wheels on during the winter...



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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 10:56 AM
  #33  
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From: Columbus/Cleveland
Originally Posted by ebristol
Close. Filling the cx racing h/e at the cap would be the quickest way to get started purging the system. But the h/e cap is not at the hightest point in the cooling system so you would still need to bleed out the system just like the cobra h/e.

This brings up another good question.

For guys running the CX Racing H/E, do you cap off the H/E overflow port or do you tie it into the system using an overflow tank or something like that?

that is a little metal outlet that screws in there, i just took that out and replaced it with a locking screw end plate, got one at advanced auto parts. if you cant find one, theres rubber lockers that will go over that hole and wont let anything out.. or run a tube i guess to another holding tank. be careful on the bottom drain valve, i had mine open when i poured the fluid into it. no worries on air or anything, fill the h/e up, then top it off on the top stock line valve thing. crank the engine and a couple bubbles will bubble out to the top

i bolted it to the bottom of that long big metal bumper piece when the bumper is off. then the other side of the L bracket screwed to the BACK of the side of the h/e so you wont see it when you look at it, just little screws that go through a little. fills up the entire bumper opening, looks real badass
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 01:48 PM
  #34  
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From: texas
i have the cx racing h/e is it better to run it in series or get a duel bypass plate??
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 02:08 PM
  #35  
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Im having one being custom made at the rad shop right now, slightly bigger then the cx racing on with no filler cap and two mounting tabs perfect for the cobalt with sid inlets for easy hose routing. if anyone is interested he wants to start selling em, pm me, if i get intrest ill become a vendor

i pick mine up at 5 tonight to install inplace of my cobra.

just let me say it again, this will have mounting plates included already welded to the unit, on top to mount to the bumper support not on the sides, all you will need to do is drill 2 holes in your bumper support and drive away. this is much wider then the cx too, it fills the whole front grille and it is slightly deeper core too, all together more surface area for cooling

you will not need to remove the bumper to install it either

Last edited by BOOSSTED 06; Apr 15, 2008 at 02:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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