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That's awesome man it's great you have someone that supports you on such an extensive build cant wait to see more progress pic
Maria, is the best wife in the world (for me). Yesterday she didn't even wait until I got the garage organized. She came down to the garage and asked for a guided tour. Maria, is great and without her support, this would not be were it is.
Originally Posted by ECaulk
That's awesome man, looking forward to all the pictures
Pics are coming.
Originally Posted by jdbaugh1
Can't wait to see it run!
The day we fire this up is going to be a great day.We needed to be able to have the steering rack function properly and that wasnt going to happen without adjusting the alternator. The steering rack knuckle was in the way and this is the shops fix.
mount modified to allow for steering rack to function correctl.
This ARE catch can is mounted and ready for hoses. It is an upgraded version to the first one I had which will now be used for the Rossler transmission.
ARE Drysump catchcan.
There are plenty of updated pictures of the roll cage upgrades, needed to get the 7.5 second NHRA certification. Anything not painted is clearly the new parts. Looking at the finished cage, I admit, I feel safe going down the track. Kreymr Racing has done very good work and the attention to detail is reassuring to me. Look at the bars on the driver side, you can see the slight bend in them to allow for the seat and myself. The bars behind my seat and over top of my seat, are very much made to protect me.
I posted before about using coil relocation brackets and these pictures show the simple way to remove the whole bracket when the time comes. It is really simple, and I love where they are mounted. After I re-install the brackets, Im going to use thicker cotter pins.
Picture of how relocation bracket is mounted. Picture of how relocation bracket is mounted.
These pictures of the finished stainless-steel headers fail to show the $$ wasted on them, whether by design or by thievery. I understand they are custom for my engine bay and still, before Dwain got his hands on them, they werent more than tack welded at the flanges and my collectors had gone missing. Dwain finished the welding, added on the collectors and installed the 02 bungs. Now the question is whether or not I choose to wrap them?
Finally finished SS headers. To wrap or not to wrap is the question.
I have a couple of pictures of the NRG adapter hub. This adapter fit directly to the I Did It steering column and it looks like it belongs there. Unlike the Grant steering wheel and its mount which looks clunky and cheap. The downside to the NRG quick release 3.0 that I have, it is 6 holes, and the Grant steering wheel is 5 holes. None of the bolt patterns match up so now I order a new steering wheel. The new steering wheel is also from NRG Innovations so everything is expected to work. When I originally bought the Grant wheel, I wasnt doing a funny car cage or a quick release hub. In the end I am glad to have upgraded to these components.
NRG adapter hub 2 NRG adapter hub 1
I have a picture from the underside of the cars backend. The picture shows the welding points on the parachute mount. Kreymr Racing didnt like the original mount and I have to agree. This upgraded mount gives me confidence that the parachute is going to stay attached to my car. Im including a picture or the first mount for comparison sake.
I like the strength of this parachute mount.
Next, I have a picture of the mounted Weldon A16,000-A fuel pump. It is a monster of a pump, but it fits in the space where it needs to be. Once my part is done, the tank will be re-installed, and the lines run for the complete fuel system. Because of the limited space for my fuel cell I have a small tank, so we are also plumbing in a secondary tank, which was originally going to be used for a methanol injection kit. This second tank is available now because of the choice to run E85, which is the same reason we need more fuel capacity.
This picture shows a work in progress. Because the firewall was moved back to accommodate the V8, the dashboard also moved farther back. This meant some modifications were needed. The lsst picture shows a sheet metal piece that fits from the stock dash and fills the space between the dash and the windshield. The first 2 pictures show where the door panel needs to be modified and why. The contours of the dash sides and the door panel no longer lined up, so Dwain used his skills to make everything work.
Side of dashboard that needs to mate with door panel. Door panel modification to allow door panel to mate up with side of dashboard. The white piece at the lower window edge is a dashboard modification needed because the firewall was pushed back into the interior several inches. This will be painted black.
Last edited by victory_red_SS; 02-17-2020 at 11:06 AM.
I have shown a picture before of the modified bumper allowing for extra airflow for the S/C intercooler. This picture shows the modification to the bumper itself. Absolutely, no air constriction here. Good thing I have a very stout roll cage as I dont think the bumper is really going to protect me much.
bumper modification to allow greater airflow for the air 2 air intercooler.
Another lingering issue, lingering for over a decade, was my new gas pedal. The gas pedal has been another unacceptably expensive issue with this project. Thanks, to Dwain, this issue is almost finished. While red usually means stop, in my brain it says go faster, so Im planning to paint the gas pedal red.
Now for the what is this picture? Us older guys will know what this is. Younger guys wont have a clue. In fact, I showed it to my wife, Maria, yesterday and she had no clue what it was. Even though shes slightly older than me, she had no reference point to the function of this object, even though, she saw where it was mounted. I am curious as to who tells us all what it is, first.
Well, what is this ???That part was actually one of the very few electrical parts that I supplied that the wiring guy used. Most of the electrical parts, except for most of the Holley parts, the electrical guy simply pushed off to the side and purchased what he wanted instead. I know that seems reasonable to a point, somethings he discarded were basic and universal, like the many relays that I had already bought. Still, the simple truth is, with the work the Dwain @ Kreymr Racing did, plus the wiring by Steve, this project is so closer to being finished than it ever has been, EVER!!!
The last couple of pictures are of my fenders which need to be reworked because the welds sit proud. The welds need heat shrinking so that I can finish the body work. I have friend from work (welder) who is coming to do this repair. The body shop who modified the fenders for me sent these back in a state that even the fabricator called, unacceptable. That body shop was supposed to go fix the problem while the car was at the fabricators. They chose not to do that and instead they wanted me to pay to have the car towed to/from the body shop. On top of the cost of towing, who knows how much $$ they would hold the car hostage for to fix something that they should never have allowed in the first place. The said they needed the car, but they had built a jig (at my cost) so they had no reasonable excuse why they didnt get this right. You will notice that I dont use their name and that is because I dont believe in either slander or all publicity is good publicity if you spell their name right. Many customers likely had good experiences with that body shop, me, not so much.
Apparently no one knows the answer to an old style dimmer switch in snowy regions. I could tell you, from experience, but I'm not going to.
I was at Richmond Racing Engines yesterday and Kyle was just setting up the machine to cut the second keyway on the crankshaft and the ATI damper. I left without waiting for pictures as I had work to do on the car. I am away for the next 3 days so I will go back to the shop on Monday and see if we are closer to a built engine. Once the second keyway is complete it should be a straight line to building the engine.
Now for part two of that question. What is the downside to having a old style dimmer switch in areas that have a full winter/snow season?
Only us old people are likely going to know that answer.
The switch sat on the left side of the floor. Are you you looking for that it got crapped up with salt from your shoes? or that the mats would move and get caught under the switch?
The switch sat on the left side of the floor. Are you you looking for that the got crapped up with salt from your shoes? or that the mats would move and get caught under the switch?
That is the problem, too much salt and water from melted snow caused these switches to rust out at the wiring connections.
And another thing--if your feet are wet it can be fun trying to activate the brights without having your foot slide off the switch. I still like them though
On another note, I saw this out of the blue in my neighborhood the other day. I didn't have long to stop and talk, but did find out it has a 408 and hauls ass. It has/can be done, and the end is near!
You are right about your foot slipping of the dimmer switch when it's wet.
You are also right that a RWD Cobalt has been done before, many times. Here are several that are conversions similar to mine,
I was at the engine shop yesterday and while I was disappointed with the minimal progress on the engine I did snap some pictures of the crankshaft sitting in its proper place. The second keyway has also been cut so we don't have to worry about the ATI damper with all of the boost we are going to be under.
I am now having to accept the reality that the car isn't going to be ready in time to go to LS Fest West in Vegas. My part will be done in time but I'm still waiting on the engine and the shop is focusing on the engines for their 2 sprint cars as their race season starts in just 2 weeks. Apparently the cam hasn't yet been ordered for my engine as the shop has yet to decide on the specs for that camshaft.
Once the car has the engine there is still the matter of running the oil lines to and from the drysump system. Then back to the fabricators shop to finish off a few odds and ends and there is no telling how long I am going to be hung up there.
I am not happy with this but I learnt long ago, complain and everything sits still even longer.
Are you going to be putting a bunch of stickers on your car or leave it nice and clean?
Almost no stickers.
I do have the cobaltss.net stickers on the rear side windows and I will have a couple of stickers that are in memory of my oldest brother (he loved racing) who passed away.
I went with the Callies Compstar crankshaft, the Carrillo Bullet connecting rods and the Diamond Race Series pistons. All of those parts are good for 2,000 hp.
Pistons and rods are fine but why cheap out on the crank? You have invested so much in the rest of the build! Anything I build over a 1000hp gets at a minimum a dragon slayer. If you are shooting for 1600hp, a magnum is way better. If over 2000hp, a billet is the only way to go (yes they are stupid expensive but I had one fail at 2200whp, just one). Not trying to hate on your build, cause I do love everything else you have done, but that crank just isnt going to cut it. If you are going to be pushing over 1000hp, i can guarantee you will snap the crank in half at the 1/2 journal in time. Seen it way too many times, dont want to see it again.
Pistons and rods are fine but why cheap out on the crank? You have invested so much in the rest of the build! Anything I build over a 1000hp gets at a minimum a dragon slayer. If you are shooting for 1600hp, a magnum is way better. If over 2000hp, a billet is the only way to go (yes they are stupid expensive but I had one fail at 2200whp, just one). Not trying to hate on your build, cause I do love everything else you have done, but that crank just isnt going to cut it. If you are going to be pushing over 1000hp, i can guarantee you will snap the crank in half at the 1/2 journal in time. Seen it way too many times, dont want to see it again.
As with all of the internal engine components, I left the decision with the engine builder. I do not have enough experience to pick my own combinations of parts to build a reliable race engine.
I thank you for the heads up and I am always willing to listen to people like you who have the experience that I don't have.
I will talk to the shop about this concern. It has never been my plan to cheap out on any aspect of the build. Instead I have let it sit for a time, here and there, waiting to have enough funds to keep doing it properly.
If I understand you correctly, this is a longevity issue, correct?
If so, and considering where I am with the project right now, I will use this crankshaft to start with and purchase a stronger one so when the engine is opened up for it's first refresh that the crankshaft can be upgraded.
Rod - it's not a longevity issue with the crank, it's a power issue, mostly related to boost and high cylinder psi. Say you are going to run low boost, 15ish psi and make 1000hp, the crank will be fine. But if you were making 25psi and making 1000hp, it will break the crank. So in a way, you can run it over 1000hp without any long term issues. I like to build in a good safety margin into every engine. I have no idea what your power goals are or what the plans to get there are but if you would like my input, just give me some info to go off of and I will help how I can. I would even advise you to make a call to Don at Callies to see what he has to say. Manufacture should know best right?
Rod - it's not a longevity issue with the crank, it's a power issue, mostly related to boost and high cylinder psi. Say you are going to run low boost, 15ish psi and make 1000hp, the crank will be fine. But if you were making 25psi and making 1000hp, it will break the crank. So in a way, you can run it over 1000hp without any long term issues. I like to build in a good safety margin into every engine. I have no idea what your power goals are or what the plans to get there are but if you would like my input, just give me some info to go off of and I will help how I can. I would even advise you to make a call to Don at Callies to see what he has to say. Manufacture should know best right?
That is very distressing news.
The plan was to use over 25 lbs of boost. The actual amount depends on what the LSX makes in it's 427 configuration.
I agree with you, over build instead of sitting on the edge.
I will call Callies on Monday. Do you have a last name for Don?
There is only 1 Don that works at Callies. Most likely, he is going to be the one that picks up the phone. I'll get you his last name when I go back to work on monday.
427 - ok. You going standard 4.125x4 or big bore short stroke? That makes a big difference too. Cam specs? Turbo specs? They all add up.
Moderator
02-17-2020, 10:39 AM
The new steering wheel is also from NRG Innovations so everything is expected to work. When I originally bought the Grant wheel, I wasnt doing a funny car cage or a quick release hub. In the end I am glad to have upgraded to these components.
