So I started bleeding the clutch and using a small 1 man bleeder bottle. The bottle filled like 3 times then I heard a pop. The pedal now goes to the floor without filling the small bottle. I did not let the system run dry. kept putting fluid in as I pumped the pedal. Then POP. Not sure what the noise was but now I have dot3 fluid draining out the bell housing... What happened? I have to pull the whole motor down now and pull the tranny off to check to see what happened. It was a new clutch pipe, new LNF TOB, nothing is leaking anywhere else but out the bottom of the engine/trannny mounts.

 

hope its just something minor.

when i did my trans swap, i had a brand new TOB fail on me. VERY frustrating.

if its in the bell housing it can only be the tob or clutch pipe though.

 

More then likey the little seal on the clutch pipe is the issue bet that there r 2 inside pop the connector off the top of the tranny and look

 

I think it could be bad clutch master cylinder some may get lucky some may not. Take out your fuse box and it's there, I heard it's pain in the ass.

 

bad master cylinder would not leak out the bell housing. its either the connection of the clutch pipe to TOB as stated or the TOB is bad. gonna have to take it all apart either way, sorry man i know how annoying clutch problems can be but at least its not your daily!


edit: and the master cylinder isnt that bad to do anyways, but that is not your problem.

 

I am about to cry with joy, i just went out there and there were two seals from the clutch pipe inside the billet fitting on top the tranny, below the oil cooler. I am going to go reattach it and try bleeding again. If this is the case I owe you big time. Big big time.

 

Pretty sure u will have to replace the tob still cuz it blew apart when the pressure built up sorry man but now u know what the problem is

 

did you do the same thing? Did you have to replace it, cause its holding pressure right now.

 

Had a friend of mine did that and we replace it

 

that sucks! Glad it wasn't something major!

 

well guys i have the car completely together, The leak coming from the transmission/case/engine is now dripping every 28 seconds, was 25, 20, 8 seconds when I first started counting, I have been pumping the clutch and the fluid resevoir is at or about the same line. I wont know until i start driving it regularly if it actually blew or the pressure let go on the seals being smashed together, cause i cant seem to figure out how that would cause the tob to pop. but I will keep an eye on it and update ya all later.

 

Hope for the best man and good luck but keep us updated

 

The circled rubber bushing was on the end of the clutch pipe new and the extra was under the billet fitting/distribution block on top the tranny. I can see that those things squished together may let fluid in but not out, I may have popped my TOB, will let you all know in the next couple of days.
(Following up for future readers if they actually search. Rolleyes)

 

I published the two seal deal like 5 years ago here. It can happen. You figured it out, fixed it and its good. Your tob is fine there was no pressure to hurt it lol
the brake fluid is in the bell housing it will eventually work its way out, the alloy spacer plate makes a pretty good deal... no problem. If you are devastated by it, just drill a small 1/16 hole through the bottom of the spacer plate between the bell housing and the engine. but seriously, its no big deal. carry on!

 

I guarantee its your tob.. I just installed my gmpp clutch and I went through the same thing. Your tob hyper-extended past the seal and popped causing loss of pressure entirely.. you can actually fix it without replacing but it requires removing your tranny to get to your tob. Pm me and I'll help you out..

 

Thats what I thought, BUT, thank you, I can now sleep tonight. You sir have given me more than you will ever know. This build has gone on from scratch for about non-consecutive 35 hours. I am stressed, tired, and broke. I need to get this thing moving. I wish I had found your 2 seal clutch write-up. I searched and that just the thing about the forum. Its now always findable...

Thank you powell.

 

please post it up here for others, I got your message but this needs further investigated if what you say is true. But I can tell you that right now, hours later, that the clutch pedal is solid and no loss of pressure at all. I will check tomorrow to see if all the residual fluid is gone from the bell housing plate spacer...
Going to drill the small hole in there tomorrow Powell.

 

Well here's my story and the reasoning behind my thoughts about his problem. I might be wrong but it sure sounds really familiar so I am just trying to help him out. I recently did a clutch job on my 07 cobalt ss/sc and went with the gmpp upgraded clutch and tob w/ new clutch pipe and flywheel bolts. After installing my clutch and reassembling I went to bleed the clutch and heard a pop and then a spraying sound coming from inside the bell housing. After disassembling it all again I found that the tob did not compress past the seals causing hyperextension once the pressure built and everytime I'd push the clutch pedal in to manually bleed it would spray brake fluid inside the bell housing and drain through the bottom where it seats against the engine. It is very possible it could also be leaking from the clutch pipe threads or the top seal going into the slave distribution block and just puddled in the bottom of the bell housing but since he said there was a distinct popping sound it sounded to me like it was the tob hyperextending past the seal. Remote diagnosing is a lot harder than being there. Lol just my 2cents

 

Glad you got it done !!! It will be fine.

when removing the transmission:

If you take the hairpin clip out of the quick disconnect clutch fitting on the bell housing (behind the air inlet and between the ECU and the engine) remove the Q-D and turn it over. You may see (not always)in the female q-d orifice, a little O ring in the socket of the Q-D. Remove it carefully with a small pick and then put the o ring back on the male post for the Q-D which is attached to the bell housing. If the O ring stays in the male Q-D post on removal you have no issues.

Then place the q-d back press firmly, reinstall the hair pin clip and bleed the clutch. I have stopped taking the qd off and just disconnect the line into the qd and cap it or let the fluid drip a bit there is not much. There is a TSB as of Nov 2009 for a new qd and line to the TOB complete: this TSB bulletin:
Bulletin No.: 09-07-29-003
Date: June 12, 2009
Subject: Transmission Fluid Leak

clutch actuator pipe elbow assembly, GM P/N 24252286


Also the new LNF TOB has 10% more throw and is cheaper/stronger no green bootie on it.

 

just back the lower two trans bolts out a bit - the ones by the oil pan- the fluid should all come out easily enough, cheers

 

Sub'd because I'll be doing my clutch soon and this looks like a pita

 

I never take the junction block apart I awlays remove the line

 

Good info - Sub'd

 

Went out this AM before work. Nothing is leaking and pedal feels real good. Reservoir was only a quarter of an inch lower. Not sure if that is from air or brakes or whatever but big thing for me is no leak and pedal feel.

 

Well wen u gona fire it??