ok, i just got a cobalt 06 ss sc, i want it to be as fast as possible, somewhat reliably though, . my friend has an evo, and he is running like 312 to the wheels, i dont think ill get there any time soon, but id like to get as close as possible. he continues to own me from a roll, or a dig, or anything. i don't need to beat him, but to be able to at least run with him would be nice. i was thinkin either intense stage 4 or ca stage 3 or parts and a custom tune. someone help. oh yea and is there anyone who could do custom tuning in the chicagoland area. would it be safe to run 2.6 w/out building the motor internals. im just not sure, any help would be awesome, thanks. if its to dangerous to run that much boost w/ a stock engine and internals. i might just chill and go w/ a gm stage 2 w/ a different pully.

 

ZZP Header/Downpipe Combo, Custom 3" Exhaust, Airbox Mod, Stage 2.

 

It really depends on what you want out of the car, a race car or a daily driven warrantied car, for a nice dd/warranty car i would say gm stage 2, gm manifold, gm exhaust, ingalls td, k&n cai, if you want more out pf the car i would suggest geting 60lb injectors, 2.6-2.8 pulley, if your going that small you want to know what your doing and go with some cooling mods and a good tune, search around and find some info about what a 2.6 and smaller pulleys can do to our cars sometimes.

 

im 17 and this is my only car. i don't know exactly how much you can push the motor before you start running into problems. i would like to make as much reliable horsepower as possible, also, could i run a 2.8 w/ the stage 2 and aproxximately how much power does the setup usually make. i dont want to do anything to risky, i just want to at least be able to sorta run w/ the evo. although i know i wont beat him. i just dont want my car to feel to slow. im around a lot a quick cars, and although i love my car , it just doesn't have the power that i want. I dont need to be the fastest car out there, just not really slow.

 

From the sounds of it i would say get gm stage 2 with a 2.9" pulley, k&n cai, exhaust, header, d/p, dual pass, and a heat exchanger, and you should be set, and maybe later on down the road clutch/axles, short shifter, motor mounts. Some people are runing into problems around 300whp and some arent, its a debaited alot about why so many are blowing up.

 

i was looking at the ca stage 2 pully, its sorta small, but according to them itl be ok, also, i like how the make it look like the stage 2 pully. that way the dealer cant tell its not under warranty. also, wouldnt altitude affect the boost and stuff, im not sure, but i was reading another thread and they were discussing altitude, i am at about 712ft above sea level, im guessing closer to sea level, the air is already denser so the boost and therefore the demand for fuel is higher, according to ca the stage 2 runs rich anyway, so wouldnt a smaller pully improve the af ratio?,

 

Personally i wouldnt run a 2.79 on stage 2 injectors because they will be maxed out, and yes altitude plays a roll in boost.

 

700ft isnt really enough to make a huge difference, but it will make a little bit.

im over 2200ft and i see about 1lb less boost than i should with GMPP stage 2

 

If your are 17 and only one car do a stage 2 and NO smaller than a 2.9" pulley. Do a header, down pipe, catback, air box mod, cooling mods and call it a day. I would highly suggest not going to 2.6 or smaller unless you have funds to potential rebuild your motor.

 

the main thing i liked about the 2.79 was that it looks like the stage2. if i get a 2.85 then the dealer will probly look at it and decide that the car is not under warranty. also, is there anyone in the chicago area that can retune the car for a new pully, also, i was thinking of getting all the stuff and then letting the dealer install it but giving them the stage 2 w/ the different pully, i dont think my dealer would notice, i heard that you have to get it installed by a dealer to keep the warranty anyway, so why not have them install the pully that i wanted. that way when the retune it theylle tune for the new pully as well. and, if i have gm stuff, then if anything goes wrong then its unde warranty, i dont think that my dealer will notice if its the ca pully.

if i stick w/ 2.9 or 2.85, then how much power do you think i will be making. i want to get as close to 300 as possible, and i definetly want to break 250. once again, 312 hp evo to compete with.

 

I agree, I'm doing the stage 4. I plan to redo all my internals. Unless, you have 5k extra just for the engine, don't push it too far; especially, don't void your warranty. If you spend the 5k upfront on the engine alone, it will be nice; otherwise, half of that will go to getting a new block and starting over. You can get away without it maybe, but best to go safe one way or the other.

 

if you do the header, cooling mods, dp, and catback with stage 2 with a 2.9" and a custom tune you should break the 250whp no problem. I am at 248 with stock dp and stock manifold running a 2.9" pulley. Now dont plan breaking the 300whp without replacing pistons down the road and either N2O, turbo conversion or super charger swap. Keep in mind if you want a different tune you might as well buy the injectors pulley and install them yourself and find someone with hptunners to tune it for you it will be cheaper than buying stage 2 then paying someone to tune it for you again.

 

The evo must be pretty modded, if your dealership is as stupid as mine they will not know the difference. You will def break 250 with the S2, CB exhaust, and intake. IVe seen a cobalt with just intake, ETD, and muffler edge out a stock evo. Ill post up the link if you want to see it. Also dont go by just hp alone. Weight and Tq have just as much or more to do with moving the car. Hp is just a number Tq is what gets you down the road. Hp is just something to brag about.

 

Im running basically a CA stage 5 minus the heat exchanger (been waiting on it since march). I also have an xtc 2.5 catless down pipe and a hacked up stock airbox with a K&N filter. Numbers are in sig. Keep in mind though this was with a custom street and dyno tune by 06blackg85ss. Also the car was dynoed on a 90 degree day at sea level. Afr was 11.4:1. Im running 23 degrees of timing. If you are going to go with a small pulley then it's a must that you get meth injection and a custom tune.

 

beat me to it mike...

 

so, whats the smallest i could possibly run on stage 2 tune, and if i decide to screwit and void the warranty, what kit should i get., the ca stage 3 looked nice, also, i might be able to get the gm stuff 4 cheap , my dad knows a guy that works for gm so we get stuff through him for cost. thats the main reason besides warranty that i wanted to do stage 2. also, the ca stage 3 has a 2.7 pully and 42 ingectors so it seems like 2.8 shouldnt max out 42lb injectors. and , what exactly would i have to do to run the ca 2.79 pully w/ the stage 2, i figure thats what its made for so there shouldnt really be any problems.

also, is there anyone to do custom tunes around the chicagoland area.

or should i buy a 2.7 and 60 injectors and get a custom tune and meth injection for cooling

also, if i run the 2.79 w/ stage 2, can i use the gm tune w/ an octane booster, im not sure, but it seems like it might make sense. higher octane fuel means that the engine wont run as lean due to the aded boost, right, so bumping octane from 93 to 97ish should correct any afratio problems. or i can get a custom tune, how much does it usually cost to get a custom tune anyway.

also, id like to keep the warranty, right now i have the airbox mod but the dealer didnt notice, i took it in for a problem w/ the ac and they didnt notice any intake stuff. i figure he wont notice the stage 2 w/ the ca pully that looks the same. but if i do it custom w/ shiny chrome pullys and stuff they will probly be able to tell that its not stock. also, according to ca the stage two runs really rich anyway. so maybe the 2.79 and octane booster would end up just perfect. also, how hard is it to istall stage 2 myself, my dealer is a rip off, he said itd be 350 just to install a gmpp exhaust. i dont even want to ask him about the stage 2.

 

2.9 is the smallest your can go on 42.5 injectors

 

Go GM St. 2 and totally forget about everything else.

Because if the St. 2 kit is installed by a dealer, you have FULL FACTORY WARRANTY.

So if it's your only car (as is mine) then there really is no other way to go.

Plus, if you ever trade in your car - a bunch of individual mods won't net you an extra dime for all the money that you will have invested.

But put on a Factory Warranted St. 2, and that $$ situation will be entirely different.

 

Yep,

You are young, there is plenty of time for crazy fast cars in the future so since reliability is a priority for you just stick to the basics. Stage 2, maybe a CAI or airbox mod, and call it a day. When you go dropping pulley sizes problems start happening. Search around and see what I mean.

It's time for you to learn the old adage of "you have to pay to play" and if this is your only car you are going to pay ALOT to play if you want big horsepower. Without a backup car it's not worth it for you because you could be without a car for a long time.

 

i know that i should chill but every time i ride in that evo or my uncles tuned 911 turbo, (0-60 in 3 secs flat) my car just feels to slow. and the kid with the evo is my age so the whole "wait till ur older" thing is sorta outdone by this other 17 yr old kid with a beastly evo. i dont want to go crazy but i want it to be fast. also, isnt the stage 2 only warranted if the dealer puts it on , cause im not gonna pay those bastards 500 or however much it is to install stage 2. im on a limited budget here, i want to keep it under 800 for all of the forced induction stuff.

 

By the sounds of it dude just got with a gm stage 2 kit, gm exhaust, manifold and small stuff like that your young, this is your DD, dont try and make a race car out of your DD, i learned that the hard way with my last cobalt.

 

The St. 2 Kit will run you $550 at crateenginedepot.com:
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...fsKiVixWBY1snz



And from what I read, the dealer install (which IS required for warranty) runs about $300.

So that just should roughly be within your $800 budget.

That's the way to go my friend ...

 

I'll be brutally honest here then. You bought the wrong car. Sorry but it's true. For 800$ you aren't going to run with Evos and you sure the hell aren't running with a 911. You are expecting too much out of a hopped up economy car. You will never run 0-60 in 3 seconds flat with this drivetrain. You are being very unrealistic and I would be honestly surprised if you would ever be happy with this car if your expectations are to run with the cars you mentioned for 800$.

Realistically you can be in the high 13s reliably with 800$.

 

That's plenty good enough for me ...

 

Lol you bought the wrong car if you want a race car!