What would happen...?
What would happen...?
If I notched out a portion for the MAF sensor, of the first section of the intake tube attached to the TB, and stuck a cone filter on the end of it, so the entire intake was a short ram and lived inside the engine bay?
For reference (and this is MY photo, so SOPA can kiss my white ass.)
For reference (and this is MY photo, so SOPA can kiss my white ass.)
ZZPerformance - 2.2/2.4L Bolt on Supercharger Kit #ZZ-2224SCKT
then it would look like the zzp 2.2 kit
then it would look like the zzp 2.2 kit
If I notched out a portion for the MAF sensor, of the first section of the intake tube attached to the TB, and stuck a cone filter on the end of it, so the entire intake was a short ram and lived inside the engine bay?
For reference (and this is MY photo, so SOPA can kiss my white ass.)

For reference (and this is MY photo, so SOPA can kiss my white ass.)

If it decides to accidently add more air than its supposed to, thats fine by me, it runs rich as hell anyways.
IAT's would be higher yea, but by how much? who knows. probably not enough for me to care. especially since that kit is designed as such the same way I want to route my intake.
Timing is based of iat1s, so therefore Ure engine temps get hotter then ****. So if Ure gonna run a short ram Ure ist2s will be hotter due to Ure iat1s being hotter so there.for you'll not get you timing commanded due to the spark - address in the high temps .
do not run short ram intakes. period. air ourside the car rarely ever hits 100 degrees, air under the hood often reaches 150 or more. get zzps 3" cold air intake. looks the *****, sounds the ***** and works Teh *****. fair price too.
true story
every time i see a short ram i lose my mind. we had a kid come into the shop with a honda complaining of no power. we opened the hood and he had a short ram that pulled air from off the exhaust manifold. iat1s reached over 200 degrees with the car sitting in the shop. he said it was a "universal" short ram. needless to say, once we put his stock air box back in problem vanished.
Ill probably just keep the stock airbox then, call me a ricer, but I want to be able to hear my supercharger more when I had the airbox mod, until I hydrolocked the motor.
So I wanted to keep it in the engine bay to reduce risk of hydrolock.
So I wanted to keep it in the engine bay to reduce risk of hydrolock.
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
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From: NEPA
the zzp kit has the maf sensor placed right where I was talking about. so I think if you did a battery disconnect it would read fine? or hopefully be smart enough to adjust itself.
If it decides to accidently add more air than its supposed to, thats fine by me, it runs rich as hell anyways.
IAT's would be higher yea, but by how much? who knows. probably not enough for me to care. especially since that kit is designed as such the same way I want to route my intake.
If it decides to accidently add more air than its supposed to, thats fine by me, it runs rich as hell anyways.
IAT's would be higher yea, but by how much? who knows. probably not enough for me to care. especially since that kit is designed as such the same way I want to route my intake.
You will be changing the cross sectional area the MAF reads by placing it in the upper intake piping. The piping on the stock airbox at the MAF provision is approx 3" (see photo). The upper portion is close to 3" as well, but it is in an oblong shape compared to the symetrical shape at the airbox.

I'm sure it can be done, but the question is why would you want to have the car suck in warm underhood air when the stock cold air intake does a great job the way it is?
As long as you don't drive through standing water you will never have any issues with water.
Also, cold air intakes are usually tuned to a specific length in order to produce good intake air velocity. Velocity and flow are very important.
Here's my modified airbox w/ K&N E-0777 drop in filter. Blower whine is loud & the filter is still protected by the airbox.
Last edited by Staged07SS; Jan 20, 2012 at 08:03 AM.
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