So was I...

and I don't know what compression it is.

 

I believe somewhere around 11:1.

 

RSX Type S 2002-2004 was 11.0:1

NJHK is right, we can't compare this engine to the K series. It makes more power at 9psi because it revs higher and has higher compression among other things. It will make lower torque due to it's flow characteristics as pointed out.

This does not mean that the LSJ has a poor design, it means it was designed for good pick up on the street using the M62. If you take the GM recommended build with the M62 into consideration, using stage II boost levels with 10.0:1 compression pistons, a different cam and a few other modifications it made over 300 HP.

It isn't good to compare apples to oranges.

 

The LSJ intake manifolds don't have runners which is why I have pretty much ruled out the too much air theory.

I agree with the fluid dynamics explanation but I'm not sure how flow restrictions and having multiple (usually 3 at WOT) injectors open at one time constantly changing with firing order impacts anything.

Every experienced local engine builder that I've shown stock pistons to insists that its an oil or coolant issue.

I've pretty much accepted the fact that stock pistons are only durable to so much pressure before they break. Any tiny difference in cooling or oiling on piston 4 and its the first to go.

 

Has anyone melted or cracked or blown a Forged piston is our cars yet? I keep thinking that once I put in my Forged pistons, that I can get crazy and do crazy stuff.

 

Such as go streaking down the drag strip?

 

Without someone logging Fuel Pressure on their car, no way to really know.

 

ok, so the k series is off the wall comparison.

remember, heat kills

 

Not that big of a deal, just pointing out that it makes it's power differently .

Yes the heat kills, no matter how it's produced.

 

ok guys i was looking under my hood and all, and wondered something, dont rant me and say rice or anything but i have an idea, well looking at my cousins legacy gt, with the functional hood scoop, to the intercooler, i was thinking to make a hood scoop for my car functional to go right on top of the head of the engine, hmmm would it work to drop temps a little?

 

They make hoods with functional "SS" style hood scoops as well as some other scoops and cowls. Yes it would help to cool the underhood temperatures enough to warrant buying one if you intend to race.

 

Water Wetter?
It would help reduce localized boiling... big hit with sportbike racers!

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_c...ubCategoryID=4

 

It is because it is the furthest piston from the radiator, it takes this portion of the engine to cool down the longest due to the fact that the coolant that is trailing thru the block takes longer to get there. and once put under more strain (more hp) it is more likely to blown the cylinder if supporting mods were not put in place, and if the tune is shity.

 

I didn't. I talked about that just a few posts before you.

 

how much of a temperature drop are we talking about here? if its like 2-3 degrees its not worth it, but if its a great amount like 20-40 degrees then more people should look into it

 

...............

 

Looks like if we use water wetter with glycol and water its going to reduce temps by about 8 degrees.

If you lived in Arizona and knew for sure it wasn't going to get cold then you could drastically reduce temps by running just water and water wetter, about 28 degrees.

Take a look at their flash video, it explains it really well.

Ryan

 

I couldn't tell you the exact temp drop but it wouldn't be that big. Like I said, if you plan on racing the car then it would be worth it, plus it looks really good on our cars. If you don't have the money then I wouldn't buy it.

 

well we other people should look into it becuase people need to keep them temps down

 

i wonder if we could set up a sprayer above the valve cover and spray it on hard runs. just like a co2 sprayer or something.

anyone know if there is an aftermarket fuel rail anyways?

 

Yes, we can lower temps as a whole by 8 w/ glycol, but think of the localized boiling... thats the real advantage.

Their flash video is very informative on a basic level, but the important thing to under stand is the surfactant idea. If we are heating the jacket around #4 more than the others, we are proabably creating a localized boiling pocket on it. Of course the temp sensor wouldn't see this because the body of coolant is still below boiling, even though a small portion is boiling and losing heat transfer.
This is where the water wetter flash vid is good, for explaining this concept.

Along with this, I wrote a paper about half a year ago on the use of surfactants in a cooling system. I think the real advantage is in factory blocks.
Here is the reason....
Just like mechanics, how sharp edges create stress concentrations, they also create heat concentrations. This concentrated heat can be up to 25% higher in temp than the rest of the cooling jacket wall. Combine that with the localized boiling, and your getting a nice little vapour pocket around you concentration, where heat can't escape, thus making the problem worse.

I know this summer I'll be throwing water wetter in my system.... and some of this into the aftercooler fluid...
http://www.cryo2.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=62
Chill charger!

BTW, for anyone in the US, this may be a more available option as apposed to Watter Wetter... it's from DEI
http://www.cryo2.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=59

 

Thanks Shabodah, rep for you!

 

Thanks man. I just want this issue solved like everyone else, though. lol.

 

I feel like spraying something like that on a block would be an incredibly poor decision I am thinking something might crack but who knows, I can't remember mechanics of materials anyways.

I don't think there's any aftermarket fuel rails for us yet

 

Why are people focusing on the fuel rail so much? Maybe it's the fuel pump that can't keep up ?